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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Found this N-gauge model in my home house, I started in 1992 in N-gauge of Omagh but never progressed beyond two baseboards. Back in the day, there was no internet, no forums and you were totally on your own. Still looks good, I gave it to my eldest son to try and get him interested in the hobby.
  2. 4 points
    I originally planned to use 3D modelling techniques to produce the JM Design Tin Vans rather than as etched brass and whitemetal kits. I prepared this about 6 years ago though never got round to producing a 3D print. The basic idea is to use the print as a master for casting in brass or whitemetal. A number of local companies offer a resin casting services, using rubber moulds produced from 3D models. This avoids the layering effect with traditional 3D printing. At the time I was quoted around $800.00 for a mould for a coach body with a mould life of approx 30 uses. In the end I released the models as brass and whitemetal kits, due to the comparitivly higher costs associated with 3D printing or resin casting considering the potential level of demand and to achieve an acceptable standard of finish. In general JM Design covers its distribution and production costs but not its design or overhead costs.
  3. 3 points
    Here's my finished kit, more pictures can be seen on my workbench thread. Nelson
  4. 3 points
    Hello all, I believe this is the first model that I have completed in 2018, started it at the Bangor show and I'm happy to finish it. Still need to add couplings and transfers (I completely forgot about them) thanks, Nelson.
  5. 3 points
    TPO went to paint shop. Masking took a little longer than normal due the recessed sliding doors used on the TPO. Masking tape over the white and orange bands. Black sprayed over the lot. Slightly apprehensive about possible paint bleed under the tape. One hour later carefully removed the masking tape using a tweezers. Masking the recessed doors was fun Next up weathering, varnishing, decals, varnishing, glazing and grab rails, etc
  6. 2 points
    Discovered this by accident last evening. Line up unpainted coach with another finished coach, put a small square piece of masking tape at each end of the coach to be painted matching the height of the orange band on the adjacent coach, then run masking tape between the two. This takes into account ride height which you may want to make allowances for depending on the model. Good idea to do ride height check anyway incase coach is riding too high or two low (i.e. adjust bogie mounts, or smaller diameter wheels). In this case I actually reduced the ride height ever so slightly so that the white stripes would be closer, which moved the orange band a little higher than the pic above. . . . and then your trying to get buffer height to match as well as gangways!!!
  7. 2 points
    Hi Noel There is a very handy tool for this- a height gauge;- Full engineering model at around €100.00 it's nice and compact at 150mm high Or the economic versions, on the right is a Draper rule with height gauge at €5.00 and on the left is a Hickeys sewing gauge at less than a €5.00- the Hickeys has a plastic height gauge which is good for model protection from scratches and you can measure your sewing stitches with it!! Eoin
  8. 2 points
    When this livery was introduced, CIE had a bewildering collection of carriages of many origins, ancient and modern. While six-wheelers wouldn't last much longer, and no passenger carrying ones would ever bear black'n'tan, Bredins, laminates and Park Royals mingled with wooden bodied carriages of a multiplicity of designs. Most MGWR types were gone, and all DSER and WLWR ones, but among the larger GSWR stock there were many vehicles still in service, of both of the GSW's basic side profile designs. Add to this the CIE and GNR railcars, inherited GNR stock both wooden and steel-sided, and it was noted that with the plain green livery, uniformity was guaranteed - so - with the new livery it also ought to be. Thus, exactly, as you have done above, the policy from day 1 was to have the white line and tan ("tan lines"?) edging all of exactly the same height from rail level. This showed up as a bit odd on some older vehicles, where the division between black and tan, and the white line, were carried across the vehicle cutting panels in half, where a slightly different alignment would have looked more logical on that vehicle taken in isolation. The idea was to make visual uniformity out of chaos!
  9. 2 points
    It seems that work is beginning at the Casino cottage.
  10. 2 points
    It looks like several inventors were looking along the same lines at the time, in New Zealand its claimed that Richard Pearse a Timaru (South Island) farmer achieved powered flight about 12 months before the Wright Brothers. Much of Pearse's equipment was dumped in the farm rubbish dump and exhumed after his death. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Pearse
  11. 1 point
    Thanks - Yea I think 2cm of masking tape is probably still the lowest cost.
  12. 1 point
    Indeed a shame. To attract footfall it will really need a fairly impressive operating layout of some kind, with lots of action especially targeted at tourists, children and families rather than just modellers. Yes the O gauge layout in the castle was more a very big colourful 'train set' lacking authenticity, but it had enough visual stimulus to make 10yo boys faint with excitement. Static displays alone will not generate footfall. I do hope they can build and more importantly operate a visually stimulating layout with lots of movement, noises and lights, ships and planes also.
  13. 1 point
    Now that you mention it, Eoin, I remember you mentioning that. A terrible shame, as you say. Maybe an outsider recommending your services and wares.........?
  14. 1 point
    Hi JHB Some time back myself and Mr Tierney- refer back in this thread, made representation to the Minister, the custodians, the local authority and the friends of the Fry Model- all to no avail. In my submission in the planning process I again offered assistance- I reckon what happened in the past has made the custodians vary guarded and they feel we just want to take away their goodies! With the limited size of the proposed facility I reckon the complete Fry Collection just will not fit. The hall for a Gauge 0 layout is restrictive in size, so as you say a Gauge 00 layout would seem more appropriate, of course there could be a O track incorporated to allow Fry Models run on special occasions- maybe! This would be sad and disappointing, but for the patrons that visit the new facility- they would not know the difference! Eoin
  15. 1 point
    The cobwebs are the wrong livery............. 😄
  16. 1 point
    About time. In my opinion, the actual Fry models ought to be displayed; they are too valuable and unique to wear out. Detailed photos of the innards and home-made mechanisms which power them would be of interest. In this day and age, more modern state-of-the-art models by Murphy, Provincial, SSM, IRM and the other manufacturers here would make a better operational display. For readers of this website, no introductions are necessary, but in all reality the regulars here would collectively do a better job than anyone else at assembling a working layout, starting with baseboards and ending up with high-end scenery. The opportunities are there. Using kits alone, the NCC, GNR, and CIE / GSR areas and eras from 1930s onwards would be easy to replicate, in so mnay cases just with RTR off-the-shelf models. Perhaps a consortium of kindred folks here might open discussions with whoever is putting this all together?
  17. 1 point
    See here Noel The layout stock that ran in the Castle was more Mr Tadhg's than Fry, the majority of the Fry models were in the display cases and storage- some of his diesels ran on the layout until they wore out the WM wheels..... Eoin
  18. 1 point
    Interesting. Does anybody know if it will be limited to a static display of the Fry collection or if there will also be an operational layout running the layout stock that was at Malahide castle?
  19. 1 point
    lovely spray job , its coming along nicely
  20. 1 point
    This looks really well - superb painting too...
  21. 1 point
    Lovely, a work of art.
  22. 1 point
    Shannon revitalised As the initial photos showed, Shannon was one very dirty engine when I took possession, but it was soon apparent that there was a very nice model underneath. A good dusting using a paintbrush was the first step, then I tried damp cotton buds to shift some of the grime. However, this only succeeded in moving the muck around, so out came the T-Cut. An automotive product for restoring paint, it works as a very gentle abrasive. Wipe on with a cotton bud, leave a short while and then polish off with a cloth or another cotton bud. I started with an area on the tender that would be covered with colour if the worst happened, but whatever paint Shannon was originally covered with was not affected - just the dirt came away. And it didn't actually take very long: within a couple of hours Shannon was looking a whole lot better. Left overnight, I then had a second look next morning to redo a couple areas and also polish off bits I'd missed earlier. However, polishing the T-Cut showed that the boiler bands were loose in places, so these were re-fixed using satin varnish. The other most noticeable thing wrong was all the chipped paint, with two areas on the cab roof and another on the boiler needing serious attention. It is one thing to touch up a bit of bare metal, but the covering needs to come level with the rest of the paint, or it still looks wrong. Then there is the problem of 'black'. Whatever shade Shannon was originally painted, it is neither matt, nor really satin black, more a very dark grey, with a tiny touch of blue. First I gave the bare metal a wipe with 'Birchwood Casey Gun Blue' - which is as per its name. Comes in a plastic bottle from Eileen's Emporium if [like me] you don't have a local gunsmith handy. Essentially selenium dioxide, thirty seconds is enough to blacken most metals, then you neutralise it with tap water: cotton buds again. After went over all the bare areas with a black spirit pen/marker, then it was time to get out the acrylics. An exact colour match wasn't important initially, more a case of building up layers to bring the bare areas level with the rest of the paintwork, while using acrylics meant there was only a few minutes drying time needed between coats. Eventually got the levels about right, then smoothed everything off with some 1200 grit wet and dry before finally trying to blend the paint in with the old top coat. The latter was slightly satin though, but rather than use varnish, I got the T-Cut out again and used this blend & polish the two areas together and [fingers crossed] it seems to have worked quite well. There were still a few other areas to attend to. The old coal load in the tender was scrapped in favour of a larger piece of plastic sheet [black this time], covered with real crushed coal glued in place the same way as ballasting track. Exposed brasswork, including name and number plates got a gentle polish with the 1200 wet & dry, while the crew got a fresh coat of acrylic [same colours as before] & were then glued back on the footplate. The last job for now was making a better join between the boiler and smokebox. The frames, footplate and smokebox are all one unit, with the boiler and cab the other. The only fixing is a 12BA screw in the cab floor, with the boiler being a push fit in the smokebox. However, there is only 1mm overlap here, so I introduced a brass peg - 1.2mm wire, soldered into the end of the boiler, which engages in an existing hole in the back of the smoke box. This stops the boiler moving when you pick the engine up and [hopefully] reduces the strain on that tiny screw. Shannon is quite heavy - the boiler has a copper bar inside for weight, while the tender has the PFM sound system. All this is moved along by a very small Escap motor, but, it seems to work fine. What I haven't done yet is have a go at the wobbly centre driver. Being flangeless, it doesn't seem to affect running, but when the Gravetts visit in a few week's time, I'll see what Gordon thinks might be done. So, there you are, a fine model, now looking smart again. It has been a pleasure to work with, not least because it has helped me appreciate how Shannon was built and discover some [though by no means all] of the fine details that have gone into her. Compare these new photos with the first ones from last week and hopefully, you will see quite a difference.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    You can mess all you like with your weathering powders and air brushes but when it come to it its hard to beat the real thing
  25. 1 point
    JHB Have taken photos of the same piece of timber at various stages of painting and weathering,all based on Martyn Welch's book 1 is obvious! 2 is painted with Sleeper Grime (in this case Railmatch) 3 is top coat added (Revell 64) but add your chosen colour! 4 is after rubbing with a carbon fibre brush 5 is after dry brushing and rubbing in with finger (Humbrol 64 Grey pus a touch of Humbrol 24 Yellow) 6 and 7 after weathering with powders (Greys and Dust colours-just add gradually and not too much) you will know when it looks right. 8 is an experiment -wood painted as per the book (mix of Humbrol 64,110,29 plus a touch of 33 and 53) After dry brush sparingly with Sleeper Grime.Hope this is useful.
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