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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi everyone, We have just launched a brand new Irish Railway Models website! To make our website even more user friendly and accessible, we have carried out an extensive redesign. Now, shopping with us online is very simple, while all the latest news is nice and accessible! With all the latest models coming down the line in the near future, it's now easier than ever to keep abreast of all the latest news. We also have included 'Live Chat', so we can answer any of your queries in double quick time! You can also track all your orders placed with us in your online account, including models you buy from us at shows! Due to the latest online regulations, we now need you to reactivate your account. You can do this by simply clicking on the link we have just emailed you and following the quick instructions. YOUR ACCOUNT WILL NOT WORK UNLESS YOU REACTIVATE IT! Please check your spam folder if you cannot find the email. If you have any queries or difficulties, please do not hesitate to contact us via email at info@irishrailwaymodels.com Cheers! Fran
  2. 2 points
    It looks like ordinary wooden sleepers are supplied cut to length from sawmills in Scandanavia & Australia. Sleeper length appears to have been reduced from 9' to 8'6" as an economy measure at some stage after 1914. William Mills "Railway Construction" 1910 speaks about sleepers for gauges between 4'8½" & 5'3" being brought over from the Baltic in "blocks or logs 8'11" some square some round, each block sawn down the middle gives two sleepers". I use SMP EM copper clad sleepers for 21mm gauge flatbottom track which are 34mm long. http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=PCB+PRE-CUT+SLEEPERS SMP & C&L Finescale both supply short sleepers to disguise the narrow gauge look of OO track laid on 32 or 36mm sleepers
  3. 2 points
    I seem to have managed to miss out this picture... ...showing the very informative notes along the layout frontage and the neat trick of hiding the backscene joints by means of the church spire and a tree. (The post at the end is not hiding a joint in David's head.)
  4. 1 point
    Although my main interest is the Midland I found it hard to resist at least a couple of GSWR 6 wheelers for a 4mm broad gauge layout if I ever get round to building one. The coaches were released as a set of 5 coaches about 20 years ago when the business was owned by Paul Greene an S Scale modeller Kilbrandon is based on Killorglin on the Valencia Branch. http://www.s-scale.org.uk/gallery15.htm. The 6w brake 3rd caught my eye with its gas lighting, birdcage look out and skylight lasting in service into the late 1950s, most of the GSWR 3rd class coaches seem to have been converted to carry turf during the emergency with the slightly more spacious 1st & 2nd class coaches remaining in services into the CIE era, the slightly more modern and spacious MGWR 5 compartment 3rds replacing the 6 compartment GSWR 3rds on branch line and suburban trains even in deepest GSWR territory. I started the assembly saga on my Tales from the Carriage Shop thread but though building these coaches was worth a separate thread, with relatively few modellers apparently prepared to assemble a metal kit or attempt a scratchbuild. These coaches are a fairly advanced design and relatively easy to assemble compared with a high proportion of the etched brass coaches produced by UK manufacturers. The SSM coach kits are available complete with wheels and are basically designed for slot and both together construction, I use solder for joining the majority of components and sub assemblies as its faster and stronger than epoxy or superglue. I used an 18 Watt Antex iron with 145 degree solder and a citrus based flux available from DCC Concepts for most of the assembly work on this coach. I wash the sub assemblies in warm water to remove flux residue after soldering and store in an ice cream container as the combination of acetic acid (citrus) and heat during soldering tarnishes the brass and leads to verdigris. Hinges are represented by strips that slot through from inside the coach, much simpler than fixing individual hinges supplied with some kits. Hinge strips soldered in place, end steps fitted in a similar manner. Hinges fitted, guards lookout or ducket before fixing, the ducket sides have tabs that slot into the side of the coach. Ducket sides soldered in position. I flux the joint and pick up a very small bead of solder on the iron to minimise the clean up needed. Reverse rod formed in ducket side by rolling around a piece of brass or steel rod (handle of hand vice!) Strip of waste brass clamped to inside of ducket with stainless steel clip for soldering, hand vice on right. Rear of ducket with reinforcing strips/spacing strips fitted. I kept the strips a min of .4mm back from the edge to provide a seating on the ducket edges. Ducket tacked in place. Ducket secured at bottom with solder. Detailing to side is nearly complete window droplights and side lamps to be fitted. I will add the door handles and grabrails after the model is painted
  5. 1 point
    26" centres - taken at Athy - 8.67mm in 4mm.
  6. 1 point
    Great bit of modelling, the ballast looks so authentic 😉
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    This should be reasonably accurately scaleable for the sleeper length. This is what came up when the main lines through the station were replaced with concrete sleepers a few years back.
  9. 1 point
    The new wooden sleepers on the loop at Ballybrophy.
  10. 1 point
    Ken, I popped into Lenihans hardware in Dublin, bought a few long bolts and some nuts, total spend of €1.36 and have a few working 21mm track gauges. The ones from Scalefour only work on Code 75 track, so anything more exotic (this clown here is using code 100) requires a homemade solution.
  11. 1 point
    Hello Robert, The sleeper length is 36mm (9ft) if I recall correctly. In terms of setting the track out, templot is what is generally used. It's free to download and use, however it is a bit clunky to operate initially. You need to set up the scale you want (5'3" gauge is there) which sets out all the necessary parameters to allow you set out sleepers, track lengths, and points etc. For spacing, I bought the gauges from Scalefour society (there may be others?) which are not expensive - you could make your own, but for the sake of c. £5, is it worth the effort? Hope this helps, Ken
  12. 1 point
    They look really nice. Good work
  13. 1 point
    Class job. Super looking wagons. Precise neat work.
  14. 1 point
    There was one for those suffering from yellow fever.
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