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Molderman

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About Molderman

  • Birthday 09/07/1948

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  • Location
    Ex Rialto / East Sussex UK

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  • Biography
    Im Dublin man "Rialto" went to Jaymbo School Basin Lane Have lived abroad since I was 16 and Im now 95000 yrs old

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  • Interests
    Radio Control Electronic System Models in hovercraft Hydrofoils and 51 inch powerboating and jetfoil

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  • Occupation
    Fibreglass mouldings and castings design production in various resins and master modellor.

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  1. Thanks Garfield I've just uploaded the list and far better to do it this way than to give it to ebay ! Peadair
  2. Please see below Items I have for sale : Locos: 1 x Class 181 IR Orange 183 £120 + p&p to be advised 1 x " " 071 IE Orange 077 £125 + p&p to be advised ------------------------------------------------------ Craven Coaches: Num 1521 ST x 2 @ £40 each + p&p to be advised 1529 ST x 1 @ £40 + p&p " " " ------------------------------------------------------ RPSI Coaches: Num 1701 2A FK Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p to be advised 1702 Mk2 TSO Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p to be advised 1703 Mk2 BSO Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p " " " " ------------------------------------------------------ Train Sets: 1 x Class 2700 DMU boxed set complete @ £144 + p&p to be advised 1 x " " " " (Car Set only) @ £110 + p&p to be advised ------------------------------------------------------ All the above are new and boxed and once I have confirmed postage tomorrow I will update accordingly and I will do my best to get the best postage costs, and the prices stated are what I paid for them. Payment can be through Paypal with my email addy. Peadair/Molderman
  3. Hello Guys I hope I got this right reading from Wrennaire's instructions. Been away for a few months moving home etc and just getting back to playin trains. Just letting you chaps know that Im about to put up (Once Ive Mastered Photobucket)about £1500 worth of new model locos coaches etc not needed and surplus to my requirements if any interest is there ? Molderman:banana:
  4. Hi Nelson I got a couple of loco lamps from south east rail down here in Sussex gonna dig em out and get them up here.
  5. Your welcome Kirley no problem and glad to be of help to you. Peadair:dig: there don't seem to be bottom to this hole ???:confused:
  6. Just a word of advice, any of you guys out there planning to buy starter kits for resin casting for a "just like that" starter to be aware that although it may be the cheapest online etc and all you have to do is add this and that and you'll get a brilliant duberry ! Usually means that you may well mess up first time and if you do mess up it's with the whole 500 grams that you have just bought thereby you have to spend another 30 spondulas to replace what you have just lost all because of a truly misunderstanding mistake.In 40 years of working with resins castings and fibreglass the amount of guys who have said Peadair I bought this stuff and what should I do to get it right even though it's in the destructions the problem arises from not understanding the process and the chemicals in use and their character so take the time to learn if your a first timer cos we all have to start somewhere and never think that you know it all simply cos your first cast was a success, I know cos I've had some very expensive stickers and I have tons of experience cos it only takes one mistake to ruin possibly hours of work prior to moulding. But if your able to wait for my how to do series or vids or whatever you wanna call them we can have a bit of fun achieving our aim. Peadair this is hard work I tell ya !
  7. Depends on if you want to cast in resins or plaster and what your casting but as Nelson says try Sylmasta but to begin with I would try a resin that can take a paste hardner as opposed to a liquid hardener as your hardner amount is equal to the size of a pea in quantity and will cure in bout 20 minutes otherwise you get into liquid hardner curing times extend considerabley. Idealy you want a room temp no lower than 65fah although you could go lower but then you risk condensation cure effect and by that I mean that your work may be in a very cold part of your workshop or room making waterdroplets and if this gets onto the work it turns white and this tells you that you have moisture in the air and will need to be dried and this will slow down the curing process and in some cases stop it so that your work remains tacky, and you also have to factor in color pigment for your final color and srinkage and srinkage can be avoided or reduced by using filler powders like plaster of paris. so i suggest you buy a small resin pack with paste hardner to begin with so if you mess up its only a small quantity. If your into plaster of paris then thats fairly simple and very brittle but it works. On the other hand you can hang on for couple weeks till I put up a video on how to do. There is nothing worse than producing a model to mold up only to have what we call a sticker in the trade and it then has to be put aside to start again and the frustration it causes !Heating your room ! try to avoid gas heating cos this will produce condensation everywhere need I say more ! hope this helps and sorry for the delay in replying. Peadair:dig:
  8. Hi Guys Just to let you that once I've completed my house move I will be doing some videos at my workshop on silicon and it's uses, how to cast using resins and 2 packs and various thickners and powders and colourings and improving on basic mold shapes and a bit a fun with 3D printers although very versatile they are not the be all end all of modelling. So anybody interested watch this space. But in the meantime if your into trying your own castings and want some advice just ask. Peadair:
  9. Yes our much hated/loved dentists wherever you live have some of the best state of the art glues and resins with superfast curing times that make the mind boggle and I use several types of resins in my workshop although it is worth noting that curing and exotherm (heat) produced by the added catalyst also causes shrinkage to some extent unless you factor this into your design and this must be allowed for if you want 99.999% perfection. 5 minute epoxy can be made soft or hard, superglues can be slow or fast depending on viscosity and if both surfaces are suitabley prepared can produce a bond which if you later try to separate will cause damage to both surfaces. Cold cure resins of the type used by the dentist do just that! they don't produce exotherm hence when the dentist fills your mouth with a load of rubbery goo which sets as a perfect replica of your teeth. So this stuff can be obtained not from your local dentist but from dental pharmacies suppliers.
  10. If I can get there Andy, Dave, I'll come and say hello I'm only couple hours away ! Peadair
  11. Hey Tony Did you get the pic I sent you bout bout Bowden cables etc ? Peadair
  12. And if I can get my head around photobucket to upload then I'll show some pics of my workshop and some makeshift plans of my new layout workshop in my new garden ! Ya laughing now ya crying hoor ya ! Ehaaa Peadair
  13. sorry I've been away for so long trying to get myself organised but once this move is over I will be back to normal (does that mean I am abnormal)? I've have a Hino truck ready for casting beer kegs A class body lots more other stuff and I will also try my hand at diy for you guys that want to know with some video tutorials n stuff although I'm very ignorant of most things on Irish Rail modelling so please make allowances for me as I'm always willing to learn, I'm also looking at the class 22000 with a view to castings so any advice there will/would be helpful and taken wrennaire advice bout 7mm construction so that's on the table also.
  14. Just heard back from Soundtraxx in the States saying that Gaugemaster in WestSussex have their systems wherein that we can install our sound chips in there systems,so I'll be giving them a call to see if that's the case although the price of Soundtraxx is a bit steep especially when it arrives over here and Europe. Peadair
  15. Hi Tony I would think that the closer you can get to realism and or scale the better and in terms of rods and cranks that's what I will be doing and fixing the bellcranks onto the boards as per as long as you put a lost motion allowance into the linkage to compensate for over tensioning or straining the linkage so that you always have positive throw. I managed to get some pics of the linkages I use in my workshop so hopefully if I'm clever enough with photo bucket I'll have the pics up today. The other way to do scale bellcranks is if you have a 3D printer or know somebody who has one is to get them knocked up which only takes bout ten minutes once designed on a cad and then scaled down to your exact dimensions and the beauty of 3D is that your able to use the correct colour without the need for painting afterwards but like Manuel of Fawlty Towers (I know Nothing Senior) but then I'm looking forward to learning on here also and I'm preparing to build Drogheda, Platin, and Tara Mines at the end of the garden once the house move is over ! Peadair....
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