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Andy Cundick

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Posts posted by Andy Cundick


  1. Valencia and Courtmacsherry both use Wills sheets good and robust.Valencias survived 6 years on the exhibition circuit with no problems.As for accurate cutting of windows,doors etc,do all your marking and cutting out on the back ,much easier.Best thing for cutting is an Olfa cutter as it removes material rather than cuts it,check Eileens or Squires.Andy.


  2. To be honest i wouldn't worry about the correct shade as the moment they left the Paint shop the shade would start changing a combination of weather and light will start changing the colour.It was brought home to me looking at a rake of GW vans at Didcot,all in the same livery but varying between ex works dark grey and light grey.Andy.


  3. A point to bear in mind with modern ready to run is that you are effectively buying a time bomb the good old days when your Triang loco died and you just put another X04 in are long gone modern ready to run along with short production runs and changes does'nt seem to have the parts backup at least with kit/scratchbuilt you put it together you can fix it.Andy. 

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  4. Couple of points for the Blessington cars as well as Donegal 2 & 3 only the bonnet is usable.For whitemetal kits i find the the gel/thick type cynos do a good job and as for glazing on vehicles Microscale Crystal Clear works really well.Andy

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  5. I always use 188 fluxed solder and don't bother with flux,just make sure the brass is clean(glass fibre brush)and use a decent size iron about 30w,The only time the flux comes out is when i'm soldering the steel droppers on DG couplings and then its good old Bakers fluid ,still used some that was liberated from Swindon works at closure!,Andy.

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  6. Very good selection of photos in there,one bit that amussed me was when he went back to Arigna after closure he couldn't find it and assumed it had been demolished,can't quite see how he missed it as if it was any nearer to the road you'd hit it! Andy.


  7. 18 hours ago, Patrick Davey said:

    Do you have a link for this one Andy?  Thanks for the info!

    Go onto RM Web then onto Small Suppliers in the trade section then Judith Edge theres some photos of the model,Andy.


  8. Just noticec on RM Web that the next Judith Edge kit is for the LMS NCC Harland && Wolff 060 and very good it looks too,Can't justify one but will get one anyway to keep the Jinty and W company.Andy.


  9. Tony,The only ready to run conversion i have is a Halling motor bogie under my C Class.For any one who hasn't come across these rather fine beasties,they are made by Leopold Halling in Austria and are mainly used under tram kits,they are however readily regauged as all you have to do is replace the existing axles (1.5mm)with longer ones,for the C i used 14mm coach wheels instead of the 9mm ones.The usuful thing with these bogies are they have a variable wheelbase and flywheel drive infinitely  better than those dreadful Tenshodos.Andy

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  10. Coach bogies are dead easy MJT do a range of basic compensated coach bogies in various wheelbases the two sides and centre bolster are connected together by wire so all i do is make the wire longer then solder up the whole lot,they work a treat and you can fix whatever cosmetic frames you want.As for wagon chassis i don't know  whether SSM still do their 21mm RCH w irons but those plus the wheel spacing jig from Brassmasters makes the job easy,Andy.

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  11. A few points (Pardon the pun) about doing 21mm gauge,like most things its a lot to take on board at first,however it really isn't that difficult.For a start my first attempt at track building was a 21mm point,The way i did was to buy an SMP point kit ,they come with a full set of instructions plans copperclad sleeper strip,rail,and even a crossing gauge.then what i did was blew the point plan up to 21mm gauge and built a point,and heres the scary thing it actually worked!up to that moment trackwork had been a black art worshipped from afar,incidentally the second one was a complete disaster as i was overconfident.I would sugggest as first go copperclad construction has a lot going for it as its easy to adjust track after construction with a touch of the soldering iron.My way of building the track is to mark the centres of the tracks directly onto the baseboards then lay the sleepers using double backed sellotape(the type used for laying carpet tiles).a 3ft steel rule on its side helps with marking out as bending creates its own transistion curve.Obviously a couple of roller gauges are needed,now the Scalefour Society do them,but they are easy enough to make yourself with some tube cut/filed to length and some washers with a bolt through the lot.There is a set of dimensions in Alan O'Rourkes "Modelling Irish Railways".I would suggest sticking to the EM standars then at least you can see the flanges.Back to Back gauges are usfull but a Vernier caliper does the job just as well,incidently i jst checked my back to back      gauge which came from Terry McDermont back in the day and that comes out at 19.6mm. A lot has been said about the cost but especially if you build your own track it shouldn't cost any more than doing it in 00,especially if get into kit building.Andy.

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  12. Totally agree with David,steamers especially look odd,the photo in the Modeller of the Loco Works U says it all with the wheels so far in they would virtually inside the firebox.Just started laying track on Courtmacsherry which will at least increase Broad Gauge on the circuit by 25%(Due at Warley next year so no pressure then!).Start small and have a go Andy.

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