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Glenderg

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I bloody wish! I managed to screw up fairly nicely on the home stretch, but such is life.:confused:

 

Got the roofing on, and weathered, but I'm only fit for a small build after this! Minor tweaks to do, and she's ready for dispatch to a new home.:((

 

Regards,

Richie.

 

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Looks like a post-apocalyptic version :)

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Thanks lads:tumbsup:

 

Fantastic stuff, you finished the roof very well, did you use the oven tray foil technique or is it card, either way it looks great.

 

Yip, totally robbed your brilliant idea! I just used 4 sheets of ordinary foil glued together with spray mount. I started making individual sheets, but it was a pain in the *neck* so i did it in long strips instead. The difference is hardly noticeable. [The possibilities of squashing foil to form things like beet wagon sides is distracting!]

 

And yes BosK, I totally over egged the pudding with the weathering, I'll strip it down if you want. I'm hoping a few months in an attic and the dust will soften the effect :-bd lol.

 

Richie.

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[The possibilities of squashing foil to form things like beet wagon sides is distracting!]

 

Agreed the thought crossed my mind as well.

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My wife and I came back from the pub last night, and she said the roof looks too crazy. This morning I walked down to the five lamps to get milk etc. and spotted the shed roof in the glorious sunshine.

 

- google streetview

 

She was right - [aren't they always...] So half an hour later with some oven cleaner I stripped the heavy stuff off. I picked up some of that Vallejo paint from the nice chap in Capel Street, light grey, and light tan, and gave the roof a light dusting, and to my mind it looks a lot more restrained, and matches the real thing a bit better.

 

 

 

Hope that's a bit more restrained BosK!

Richie.

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Guest hidden-agenda

Brilliant and it just gets better.

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I posted a sketch of the Spoil Container a few days ago based on photos here. Seemed like a simple little build so after two screw up's and final success, here's how to make one!

 

Required: StripStyrene No 164 - 2.0 x 2.0 mm, No 144 - 1.0 x 2.0mm, and 193 - 2.5mm angle bracket and a sheet of the thinnest styrene, I think its 0.13 mm, total cost of €11:50. Plastic Magic glue and applicator brushes are around a fiver.

 

Here goes...:banana:

 

I cut out the floor plate to match the drawing above, and added the [164] lower long bars, leaving a bit of length to trim and sand later, then the small ones at the ends.

 

 

 

Cut strips of styrene in 9mm lengths, and make up the side walls. Repeat the adding of the long oversized top bars, then the end pieces. Then I cut strips to fit in between the top and bottom bars, and did a test fit on each piece. Then laid beside the drawing cut the [144] over length pieces and stuck them on to match the drawing. Trimmed them down and added to the sides. Repeated the process for the ends.

 

 

 

Then added [193] angle pieces to cover the joints at the corners, though they should really be [192]....:( Then cut additional angle pieces and stick to the corners, don't worry about square, they can be sanded later. Lastly added a scrap piece of styrene to the lightweight base to steady the whole lot up and prevent it from twisting. I did make little holes in the corners to represent the lifting hooks after I took the snaps.

 

 

 

Test fit on a 42'9" Flat. There's enough stuff in the packs of styrene to make about 10 of these containers, so if you have the patience, a nice little project that only takes about an hour and a half.

 

Regards,

Richie.

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jesus richie, you make it look so simple.....excellent job! are you going into commercial production?. will pm you shortly with request that hopefully you will considder...and if it dosent kill you, it will surely break your heart!!!:rolleyes:

Edited by heirflick

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The 42' flats are a nightmare. I think John Mayner mentioned working up a brass kit of it, or it's smaller brother, and I wouldn't wish assembly or design of it on my worst enemy! The underframe is super complicated, and the fact that I've made it in styrene doesn't help - no weight & plenty twist in the frame. It should really be made of brass. Plus, hornby/bachmann bogies look tiny and need to be expanded to look right, so there's a whole heap of work yet. Happy to go back to card modelling now... :P

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The 42' flats are a nightmare. I think John Mayner mentioned working up a brass kit of it, or it's smaller brother, and I wouldn't wish assembly or design of it on my worst enemy! The underframe is super complicated, and the fact that I've made it in styrene doesn't help - no weight & plenty twist in the frame. It should really be made of brass. Plus, hornby/bachmann bogies look tiny and need to be expanded to look right, so there's a whole heap of work yet. Happy to go back to card modelling now... :P

 

Richie, I don't doubt the flat was a nightmare, it's a fine piece of work. I have a brass etch for the 42" designed that will provide a fair representation of the underframe. The main body is a two piece fold and slot construction with ancilliary detailing. I imagine that the Y25s do look small but they are reliable. The feedback I have received in designing this is that the wider whitemetal equivalents can be poor runners around points. I intend to provide the Bachmanns as standard. Availability of a more correct whitemetal/brass variant (WBV) would be very much based on just how many people would want them.

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I imagine that the Y25s do look small but they are reliable. The feedback I have received in designing this is that the wider whitemetal equivalents can be poor runners around points.

 

Weshty if the white metal bogies are built right they should run just fine. I have loads of MIR white metal bogies running on my wagon fleet and the run just as good if not better that the Bachmann Y25

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Weshty if the white metal bogies are built right they should run just fine. I have loads of MIR white metal bogies running on my wagon fleet and the run just as good if not better that the Bachmann Y25

 

Hi Anthony,

That's the thing, they have to be built right and aligned correctly and some modellers just may not have the confidence or skill to do this. I intend to cater for both, if possible, but my first priority would be for an easy construction.

 

Now...countdown to Whit weekend pints at 6:00 starts now....

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I saw somewhere recently whereby the bogie chassis was comprised of the a three sided folded brass piece, with two holes on each outer piece, and the wheelsets slotted in, no bearings or fancy bits. The cast bogie frames were simply glued to the outside of the frame and it looked the part, no messin with alignment and wobble! I might try it out by sacrificing a bogie..... Speaking of wobble, I'm off to the boozer too....

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I saw somewhere recently whereby the bogie chassis was comprised of the a three sided folded brass piece, with two holes on each outer piece, and the wheelsets slotted in, no bearings or fancy bits. The cast bogie frames were simply glued to the outside of the frame and it looked the part, no messin with alignment and wobble! I might try it out by sacrificing a bogie..... Speaking of wobble, I'm off to the boozer too....

 

Glenderg, that is EXACTLY what I propose, with a few tweaks to ensure the 90 degree angle between top and side, a coupler base and non wobbly rotation. Pints...58 minutes and counting...

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How's the wobble now Weshty?:-bd will pm tomorrow re bogies

 

Sound man. The wobble went very well. Several pints of Smithwicks' finest and er' indoors quality cooking. Bliss.

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I saw somewhere recently whereby the bogie chassis was comprised of the a three sided folded brass piece, with two holes on each outer piece, and the wheelsets slotted in, no bearings or fancy bits. The cast bogie frames were simply glued to the outside of the frame and it looked the part, no messin with alignment and wobble! I might try it out by sacrificing a bogie..... Speaking of wobble, I'm off to the boozer too....

 

It simple enough to use top hat bearings with a fold up subframe, on most systems the bearing also acts as a locating pin for the side frame.

 

Most etched W iron units use this system and the result is a very free running chassis, its basically a matter of opening up the bearing hole in the subframe with a tapered broach until the top hat is a tight fit.

 

Hurst Models do rigid fold up subframes sutable for the Ridemaster and French bogie sideframes in OO, http://www.hurstmodels.com/4/4mm_misc.htm.

 

Personally I dont think its worth modifying the bogies if you work in OO the gauge as its impossible to disguise the fact that the track gauge is undersized 20%.

 

I am trying to get round the issue by designing chassis suitable for 21mm & OO guuge supplied with extended axle wheelsets.

 

John

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Personally I dont think its worth modifying the bogies if you work in OO the gauge as its impossible to disguise the fact that the track gauge is undersized 20%.

 

Here's a snap of how crap Bachmann Y25's look under a scatchbuilt Taglo Pocket Wagon. I get the feeling at times we're working in Narrow Gauge!

 

 

 

In other news, a little project for a layout ye are all familiar with. Another few hours and she'll be done. Anyone know where we might source scale victorian lamps and brackets, and possibly hanging baskets? No joke!

 

 

 

 

And a few 40' High Cube Containers for another Container Terminal Layout!

 

 

 

 

There's only 2 pieces of light reinforcement inside, but it's sturdy! [..and the parts for four Connolly sheds to the upper left....]

 

Richie.

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Guest hidden-agenda

Very nice and looks very realistic.

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A little more railway related I've been tipping around with and got a bit done on this avo'

 

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That is familiar! Excellent work, is it the carriage shed beside the shorter bay platform?

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