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On 6/12/2017 at 11:57 PM, murrayec said:

I hung the Scot cab roof this evening...

 

I wanted the roof to be removable and devised a plan to hook it in there with some brass noggled strips. The back end of the cab sides did not line up with the roof, the kit relies on the roof to support these when glued on...

 

So a .5mm thick curvy frame was cut out and filed up n soldered in

FSO-160 IMAG3114.jpg

 

FSO-161 IMAG3115.jpg

 

FSO-162 IMAG3118.jpg

 

FSO-163 IMAG3117.jpg

 

The noggled strips were cut from .28mm thick brass 40mm long, the noggel was achieved by sandwiching the strip between two strips of .5mm brass, one on one side and the other on the other with a 1.5mm gap between the bending edges, taped together and scrunched in the bench vice

FSO-164 IMAG3122.jpg

 

The noggel

FSO-165 IMAG3124.jpg

 

The roof was marked up with the strips in trial position, then the roof was scored with a knife, ditto to the brass strips after a good clean with the fibre brush and the lot was epoxied with a little bit of cling film around the cab wall top so that only the brass strips stick to the roof

FSO-166 IMAG3126.jpg

 

FSO-167 IMAG3127.jpg

 

I'll leave that for the night and see how it worked in the morning

 

Eoin

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

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Some lovely work being done on this thread, a true master craftsman at work .Well done Eoin

2 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

Hi George, if you mean this bit?

59eb807d7b90c_FSO-161IMAG3115.jpg.24db547b129f77f1177d4933f282acee.jpg59eb807d76b0a_FSO-160IMAG3114.jpg.93a6edbdd215f816ad63f3a66f9daba0.jpg

....with a piercing saw by hand, with a very fine jewellers blade

Eoin

Edited by murrayec
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8 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

flipping heck by hand!! Nice one, Must look into getting one of those Saws then. Tks 

It can be worth getting a saw with an adjustable frame, then broken blades can still be used.

big_piercingsaw_frames.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Georgeconna said:

Ah yes I remember using them as my Dad had them in his tool Inventory, Probably tried cutting wood with them!!!

There are fretsaws about, intended largely for wood, mostly taking pin-ended blades.
719510_1299588048_z.jpg

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I used one of these saws for 25 years on the aero modelling side 

IMG_3509.jpg

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6 hours ago, Broithe said:

There are fretsaws about, 

Whoops, coping saws I meant - sometimes I just can't cope...

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4 hours ago, Noel said:

I used one of these saws for 25 years on the aero modelling side 

IMG_3509.jpg

OOOH! not for metal - please nobody try metal on one of these;- or ouch time will be had!

Eoin

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Hi Eoin,. Have to say you work and skills are on a completely different level,. fantastic thread. 

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26 minutes ago, murrayec said:

OOOH! not for metal - please nobody try metal on one of these;- or ouch time will be had!

Eoin

I know :) Lite ply, spruce, balsa

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Hi all,

Some work has been going on the Scot build;-

The boiler and footplate are getting their final components,

5a7798fee4f01_FSO-186IMAG3555.jpg.e924cf9b55cd439d269731ecef7bb58f.jpg

the boiler is bolt fixed to the footplate so it can be removed from the footplate for painting both and lining the boiler- far easier to do if they come apart.

5a77990010b74_FSO-187IMAG3556.jpg.729e8d90b3cff90614f8ebb68b634f49.jpg

Footplate detail- lubricators, exhaust pipe casing n stuff. The casing required major filling to get it to sit in under the smokebox snuggle in. Thats one side done, the other to go, then all the little pipelines in PB wire. When in place and with the boiler handrails installed I'm ready to start painting......

5a779901689c6_FSO-188IMAG3558.jpg.d74f3d2fe5f2e5d365758f467ef4d72d.jpg

Wheel crankpin upgrade was decided, Mr Mundy's Heavy Duty Crankpins were acquired, a nice little set of brass pins and round head NS screws out front to finish. The wheels have to be drilled out and the pins are retained by a brass countersunk screw sunk in the back of the wheel.

5a779903a0349_FSO-189IMAG3613.jpg.1d86ac3577bc08327608f887c24bf4c4.jpg

Filling down the crankpins to a smidgen above the rods

5a779905898b7_FSO-190IMAG3614.jpg.8ac5e011614653340505e219e26dc185.jpg

Test fitting the drive wheels, crankpins, and rods. Bogie truck and pony truck assembled- some problems with the crankpins!! The front wheel crankpin screw was fouling the connecting rod- by the thickness of the screw head, so all apart again

5a779909236eb_FSO-193IMAG3628.jpg.ef0e837fc1d6ad2e6fc0dcdebd6fc11a.jpg

I modified the crankpins by turning down the middle collar- I had a feeling it was a bit fat. I also turned down the screw heads for the front wheels to get the max clearance behind the connecting rod. The top ones in each photo are the modified

5a7799064b55b_FSO-191IMAG3659.jpg.2d235750e20564929fd0d8da9f1a2a63.jpg

5a77990707c72_FSO-192IMAG3660.jpg.185b54cceba05141e7f89d60357ea53e.jpg

Then assembly again, final assembly this time.....

5a77990b0c820_FSO-194IMAG3663.jpg.4c9b8f97f021217e20b44c0fb7ae897d.jpg

5a77990cb82a9_FSO-195IMAG3662.jpg.b4aad78a3f270b9cc445e231fe44ad70.jpg

The crankpin mod works- its very tight though

5a77990ea63ea_FSO-196IMAG3664.jpg.92df018e7a0b03d4bfc638e8cd6f021c.jpg

5a779e4572fa9_FSO-197IMAG3661.jpg.8acc8dc9af484727b864fc5855ddb956.jpg

Nearly there for a test run.......

Eoin

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Nice work as usual. you hadme worried for a bit when I seen 'Scot' I thought Royal Scot and wondered why it is apple green and has a extra set of wheels!! Touch of Demensia!

 

 

 

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Sublime and an object lesson on chassis building. You WILL be taking the thing apart and re-assembling it several times during construction.

Even the best kits require some fettling, while the worst can be the catalyst to scratch building. Indeed, am inclined to think that there is less fettling with a scratch build - though you do spend more time making bits of course!

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Thanks Guys

I agree David, scratch building is less fettled, I think its because it's us designing and making the parts as we go and not a chap at a drawing board who will never actually build the model he designs! Thats not throughout the kit designer industry, but I have had some major problems with kits, and also, read about it.....

Eoin

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Flying Scot tender chassis

All cleaned up and ready to go, spent a few hours removing the cusp and getting things all straight again

5a7b7f50c7c02_FSO-198IMAG3665.jpg.e466b58fe211c9ba43554c9a3b3115e5.jpg

Out with 100watt Iron, 180deg solder and sizzled some flux

5a7b7f52c39b2_FSO-199IMAG3666.jpg.a8cf56f460ff2e36056ba1b5f7b674d2.jpg

I sussed the axle bearing issue- the two centre bearings are over sized for the bends. In the previous build they had been installed in the wrong place!

5a7b7f54deaa1_FSO-200IMAG3668.jpg.72b9e63119449deacc92e3a3948f6b8d.jpg

Jigged up and ready to solder, 180deg again in at the back of the bearings

5a7b7f570168e_FSO-201IMAG3670.jpg.eea9283622f2d5e83bf27d2ee340d932.jpg

Bearings done and underframe stuff soldered on with 70deg solder after the brass was thinned with 180deg solder

5a7b7f5c8af8f_FSO-204IMAG3675.jpg.85c15641b49c291522c3ef49d3f86768.jpg

Wheels on and break gear test fitted ready for soldering

5a7b7f5ab97a9_FSO-203IMAG3674.jpg.c06811f24b6b2abe970bc3ac66f1431e.jpg

FSO-202 IMAG3672.jpg

Wheels off again and all brass areas to take white metal pre thinned with 180deg solder

5a7b7f5dc9dd6_FSO-205IMAG3677.jpg.88f54d1938a3ff9de1db6256909dacd8.jpg

Same on the break cross rods

5a7b7f5f60f5d_FSO-206IMAG3678.jpg.1cb5b2c0a36af0ae55283578e79cd843.jpg

Wheels back on to position the break shoes for 70deg soldering, I decided to not solder the break pull rods on, as there is 2mm tolerance between the pull rods and the wheels and I cannot see any way in getting the wheels off if their soldered on. They will be epoxied on after painting is complete.

I did use the pull rods to get everything lined up for soldering and this is a photo of the set-up

5a7b7f617e507_FSO-207IMAG3679.jpg.f20dc5d1e1330de0644d54092282d285.jpg

 

Soldered up

5a7b7f63969d6_FSO-208IMAG3685.jpg.e13765b006709fd104d6f014109fce58.jpg

and a good wash

5a7b7f65888b4_FSO-209IMAG3686.jpg.c1a09cb873789f8d6afa64fb9e474a8c.jpg

A bit of a sand blast and ready for painting.....

Eoin

 

 

Edited by murrayec
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7 hours ago, popeye said:

You are a real craftsman. =D

He sure is, with a fast 85 degree learning curve.  Great ability to adapt and learn practical ways around engineering challenges.

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