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David Holman

David's Workbench

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Wonderful work as always David, and you make it look so effortless. Congrats.

 

+1

 

Absolutely class. Really enjoy your posts David. Noel

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Hey

 

....he could be stooped over a live steam loco model doing repairs, with lads in caps admiring the link rods!

 

Eoin

 

Apparently the CVR General Manager and some of the Aughnacloy Works staff built a scale model of a Caledonian 4-4-0 in the evenings after work

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Superb buildings-well worth all the effort of scribeing the bricks-great stuff.

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Several people have asked me about using DAS clay, so here are a couple of posts on what I do. However, I must point out that this is all taken from Gordon Gravett's books, particularly 'Building a Layout in 7mm Scale' [Wild Swan]. For those of you who have not come across DAS before, the first picture shows a pack. It comes in both grey and terra cotta colours and is an air drying clay which also contains a proportion of shredded paper. Once opened, keep the pack well sealed and it will last for months.

I smear the DAS in pea sized balls on to a frame made of foam board. Use PVA/Resin W to stick the foam board together, but use dress making pins to hold while it dries. Coat both sides of the area to be covered in DAS with PVA, or walls might warp. The DAS should be spread to around 1mm thick and will dry overnight. If you get any cracks, they can easily be covered over with further additions.

The next post will show how I did the chimney.

 

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The photos show things in reverse order. The first is the final bit, using a damp cotton bud to remove excess mortar colour from the surface of the bricks. This is water colour, which is washed on top of the acrylic brick colour [burnt sienna in this case], once the latter is dry.

Before that, the chimney stack had been built up using pieces of foam board, fitted into the ridge of the roof. A thin coat of PVA goes on, then the DAS is smeared all over, including the top. The latter will give the impression of cement rendering around the bases of the chimney pots. Once the DAS had dried [leaving overnight is best], the surface can be scored with a scriber of choice to give the brick [or stone] courses. I find it helps to have an old toothbrush handy to scrub away the dust made by the scribing. It is also useful to arrange to have a light source coming in from one side, that way, the scribed lines show up better. For brick courses, I scribe horizontal lines a scale 3" apart, with vertical line 9" apart for brick faces. The final picture is a close up of the upper storey of the station building, scribed and painted as above. Tedious, though not as bad as might first appear. Indeed, the hardest part was actually getting started.

One big advantage of this method is you can accurately make brick courses go round the corners of buildings. Not recommended below 7mm scale though...

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A couple of folk have asked me about these, so have attached photos of ones I made using dimensions & photos in the Patterson book. High tech they ain't, but hopefully of some use. To 7mm scale, I've included a 'rule' to help with re-sizing if you want 4mm. At least by going smaller, any errors are reduced accordingly!DSCN2434.jpg

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Another truly outstanding bit of work!

 

SLNCR, then CVR, whither next?

 

Carndonagh......Blessington.......Courtmacsherry.......Fenit........Killaloe.......Ardglass pier....?

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The idea of doing Blacksod Bay is something I've always fancied JB, or at least ever since I got Rails to Achill...

A blend of Courtmacsherry and Burton port maybe. One day!

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It seems to have been a very long time since I started this pair of buildings and probably is. A combination of weather [far too hot in the workshop] and holidays, plus the fact that buildings like these, despite being low profile, demand a high amount of work & detail.

Anyway, just about done now, so worth sharing.

Initially, I made the shells for the pub and shop separately [from foam board], but once the DAS clay rendering began, I fixed them together, so they have been treated as a single unit since. The pub and shop windows/surrounds are all plastic strip, building up the profiles in layers, before eventually painting in enamels. The upper walls are just DAS clay, sanded smooth, then given a coat of cement colour [for the pub] and white for the shop. In fact, pure white looks too stark, so I toned it down a bit with a touch of ochre.

Upper floor windows use a technique described by Gordon Gravett, where self adhesive address labels are stuck onto clear perspex, the glazing bars drawn on in pencil & then the window apertures cut out with a craft knife. It is then easier to paint the glazing bars with acrylics, as any paint on the glazing itself is easier to remove.

I pondered long & hard about what I was going to do for the interiors of the buildings. The pub was fairly easy - a piece of card across the window to represent the back of a wooden settle; then everything else [bar, fireplace, clock etc] just drawn on another pieces of card which is actually the back wall. A few items printed from the CG Textures website completed the scene.

The shop was more of a pain until I remembered good old John Ahern. His book on Model Buildings first came out in 1950 & my version goes back to 1970, but in terms of the basics, it really is the Bible. Sure enough, there is a chapter on shop windows, so once that was read, it was pretty straight forward. Both windows are simply layers of 'flats', cut from card & coloured with felt pens, crayons etc. The upper storey windows have simple curtains from coloured paper and nets from tissue.

The pub name [Forbes] refers to Henry of course, though also down to the fact that this was the only name I could make from the raised letters I had available. Clogher Valley pictures show a general store run by David Graham, so a bit of work on the laptop soon produced my version.

The two street lamps are Peco. Plastic mouldings, they are very delicate & for me, every bit as good as the white metal versions from other sources. Easier to make too. As yet they are unpainted, but will probably still end up green - unless JHB suggests otherwise! Some angles do not favour the painted back scene, but overall, 3D & 2D seem to blend in ok & I'm pleased that the road & pavements seem to be fairly seamless.

With the back part of the scene done, hopefully I can now turn my attentions to the station again, in particular the overall roof.

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David, a truly fascinating piece of modelling. I can see you possess the gift of patience. The detail and choice of colours are so good.

I just can't wait to get back to my modelling again soon, just back from Australia yesterday and off to Naples and Rome in three weeks time. Then the challenge begins. With inspiration like yours on this forum, it all helps.

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That hardware store is exactly like the shoe shop my mother and grandmother lived in / above during the 1920s and 30s.............. truly superb, atmospheric, realistic modelling.

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Stunning work as always, David! Can't wait to see this layout in the flesh.

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Fantastic detail,well done.

 

+1 Superb

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Very high standard set on these David-really superb work.

Should inspire many to scratch build

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Many thanks for all the positive comments folks. As ever, such things are great for going on to the next thing, which in this case is the 'train shed'. This is the 'Fintona' aspect of the fantasy, though in fact owes more to Wantage. Some major doodling eventually helped with the design, for which I'd got some quarter inch square balsa strip quite a while ago. A simple jig enabled me to make the five roof trusses. These were glued with Resin W wood glue and once dry I made a false roof from cereal packet card and glued the trusses inside with contact adhesive.

Fitting the roof to the support posts is going to be interesting, not least because it requires the station building to be fixed down as well, so I have a list of things to do so beforehand, one of which is installing uncoupling magnets for the Kaydees. It will be somewhat difficult once the roof is in place - as will back scene detailing in that area & so on...

The roof will eventually be covered in 'wiggly tin', aka Wills 4mm scale corrugated asbestos sheet. The fact that the scale 38' length of the roof is exactly that of two Wills sheets is no co-incidence!

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That modelling is so realistic I'm nearly convinced I had a pint in Forbes Bar. !! .brilliant work.

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Top class modelling David.Those buildings are a perfect example of what can be achieved for anybody thinking about giving scratch building a go.

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