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Glenderg

SSM 42' Flat Assembly Guide

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Very nice work, I have to get a few of them. Did you glue them together or solder?

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Can you go over that bit about metal dust again- you lick the dust right?????? ;)

 

If ye're Father Jack Hackett, sure ye're probably immune to the stuff anyway....

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What do you guys use to stop the nut and bolt holding the bogie to the chassis from coming undone. I've found that it loosens quite quickly?!

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The easiest way I found was to drill a hole in a small piece of plasticard and used it as a backing plate for the coupling to go into and secured it with superglue. Need to make sure the plasticard is small enough for the coupling housing to go over it. Hope this makes sense.

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The easiest way I found was to drill a hole in a small piece of plasticard and used it as a backing plate for the coupling to go into and secured it with superglue. Need to make sure the plasticard is small enough for the coupling housing to go over it. Hope this makes sense.

 

Yes perfect sense. I was thinking along those lines but wanted to see what other ppl did. Thanks K

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Just discovered this superb instructional thread.  Don't know how I missed it first time around.  Richie's photo instructions are so good I could almost be converted brass!!! :) Very impressive and informative thread especially as it was the maestros first attempt at brass.

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I suppose I could, now that I've bodged my way through brass assembly without burning the nads off meself, to do one with a soldering iron. Thankfully there's no need for Carrs Red/White/Purple, the greatest branding exercise I've ever seen. Some good solder, some flux, and an off the shelf iron is all that's required. I'll leave the resistance soldering and low melt solders to Professors David Holman and Eoin Murray, but I'd really like to see more lads have a go at the brass, it's really not that difficult at all. 

BTW, thanks for the kind comments, I missed having free time to do all of ^ :(. R,. 

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Soldering is a subject that some over complicate and it tends to turn people off. The choice of flux's is a whats good for one is poor for another. Like anything it takes a little practice, work on scrap brass and when you are comfortable move on to a basic kit in a few months you will be doing it with your eyes closed. Actually an electrician thought me and the first few attempts weren't the best ( and I am being kind to myself there )  but I got there in the end.

Rich,

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Ha! One of the first days that I had the workshop set up in HQ, I dragged down two members of the squad - as Wrenn says - the guilty shall remain nameless. 

I explained the concept of trying to solder raw brass to raw brass. Bit of flux, same solder, and they were masters on first go. No ambulances called either. Most of the issues with Brass Kits is the nomenclature of the parts - "take the crankshaft that should align with the connecting rod, not the big end now (danger here) to the inner valve spring, and mount it to the Jannckers socket in the position it is normally found in"

It's this kind of nonsense that puts the vast majority of kit builders off, myself included. I don't have a DeLorean to go back in time, nor a desire to do an apprenticeship in Inchicore, Broadstone, or Shildon. Imagine if the humble Airfix Typhoon/Sopwith Camel/Spitfire that many of us cut our teeth on, came with a typed wall of text, talking about intake manifolds and the like? We'd have thrown our hat at modelmaking years ago! 

 

  • Funny 1

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