DCC on Studio Scale Model kits

[richrua]

I know I have a tendency to ask dopey questions, but I would like at some time to build one of the studio scale models brass loco kits in OO gauge. I would probably go for the famous J15.

 

If I were to choose this loco, what are the options for Dcc conversion? has anyone done so?

 

Again, sorry for my simple questions, but if I don't ask.....

[Glenderg]

Rich, for every one question you ask, there are probably about 10 lurkers who want the same information so ask away. As for DCC, I'm still on wind up technology r.

[irishthump]

If the loco runs on DC then it can be converted. With a metal model it really depends on the way current is collected, I'm not familiar with SSM kits but some models with metal frames use it to conduct current to one side of the motor. If that's the case extra care has to be taken to isolate the motor from the frame or chassis. You also have to be careful that the decoder will not come into contact with any metal parts.

[richrua]

Thanks folks. A lot to consider. There are plenty of 0-6-0 tender chassis out there dcc ready, but I figured it would be a shame not to be 100per cent prototypical on something like this. I converted a ring field Hornby DC motor to dcc by isolating sections of the live motor frame. Tricky but doable. Won't run slow, however like modern locos.

 

I suppose there is only one way to find out, steal some money from the wife and order one!!!!!!

[GSR 800]

Rich,for the wife buy her dinner or something with a few extra bob you "borrowed"then while she is enjoying the dinner quickly say about the rest of the money.Be prepared to run though, it doesnt always work!

[Mayner]

Richrua. The SSM GNR SG 0-6-0 or possibly the Bandon Tank would be a better option than the J15 for a 1st etched brass loco kit. The SG is easier to build for a less experienced builder than the J15, the combination of flat running plate, slot & tab assembly and bolt together sub-assemblies simplify assembly. Being a larger loco there is room for a decent size motor in the firebox which can be a struggle with the J15

 

 

DLT RM Web thread on building Southern locos contains pretty good advice on building etched and whitemetal kits http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos-a-black-motor-for-torrington/page-24

 

DCC wise it would be best to try and fit a decoder in the tender or tank loco bunker rather than in the boiler as the boiler needs to be filled with weight if the loco is to pull a reasonable load.

 

Decoder wise a 1 amp N or small HO Decoder like the Lenz Silver Mini+ or Digitrax DN136D will do the job. Lenz decoders are very good, Digitrax have the advantage of being wrapped in insulation so they are unlikely to short against anything. If there is space in the tender a TCS "Keep Alive" or Lenz UPS decoder would greatly assist reliable running over coming issues with power pick up/dirty wheels.

 

Reliable power pick up is important with kit built locos, programming speed steps with kit built locos is not really an issue generally you pick a motor and gearbox ratio to give a realistic low top speed, generally 80:1 or 50:1 with a goods loco.

 

Edited April 3, 2015 by Mayner

[richrua]

Thank you very much for the advice. I appreciate it greatly.

[GSR 800]

Also Rich have you contacted Des at SSM?I am sure he would solve your query.