motor speed control + rods

[controller]

Hi, On my hst 125 I have a Ringfield motor in the dummy car as well as the control car. Problem is, one of the motors is a five pole, and runs faster than the other one, which is a three pole. Is there a way I can programme the decoders to make the motors run at the same speed, or will I have to change one of the motors. I am using a Hornby Select . Also, can someone tell me the difference between a drive rod and a connecting (control) rod on a steam loco. I have an old steam loco which has none of the latter, and I want to be sure I am ordering the right parts.

 

Regards, Controller.

[irishthump]

Good and bad news here I'm afraid,

 

First the good news: Yes it can be done! The better quality decoders allow adjustment of the minimum, maximum and middle speed of the motor. This usually enough to speed match 2 or more locos so they can run together smoothly. The high end decoders also have the ability to set the motor speed for each individual speed step, but this is rarely needed except for the fussiest of locos!

 

Now the bad news... You can't do this with the Hornby Select! The select is very limited in the programming it can do, you need a DCC controller which will allow you to write CV's on the decoder. (CV's or Configuration Variables are what allows you to write information to the decoder. When you programme an address into the loco with the select you are writing to one or more of these CV's)

If you know anyone with a more sophisticated DCC system you could ask them to try to match the 2 locos for you. But bear in mind you still need decoders that allow this adjustment. If you are using Hornby's standard decoder (R8249) then this can't be done anyway.

[GSR 800]

The coupling or "driving"rods are the rods connecting the wheels to each other while the connecting rod is the rod the connects the wheels to the cross heads

[controller]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]19851[/ATTACH] Thanks GSR 800, I have attached a photo of the old loco I mentioned. As you can see, it has no rods at all. Would you be able to tell me which rods I need to attach to the wheels, piston etc. I have seen parts on Alan Gibson site but I am unsure which parts to order. The wheels are 24mm+24mm apart , oo gauge.

[burnthebox]

Controller that link's not working, for me anyway,

[controller]

Sorry about that Burnthebox, I will try again (fingers crossed).

[GSR 800]

Here is a link to a diagram,hope this helps https://straction.files.wordpress.com/2008/06/walschaert.jpg

[Mayner]

Sorry about that Burnthebox, I will try again (fingers crossed).

 

Controller

 

Is there a makers name stamped on the bottom of the loco? If there is, it might be worth doing an on-line search to see if there is a photo of the same type of loco with valve gear and rods.

 

Assembling etched coupling rods and valve gear can be quite tricky, accurately matching the wheelbase can be quite difficult and there may not be enough metal in the rods to open up the crank pin holes to fit around the bosses and crank pins on your locos. Alan Gibson and most British made rods are designed to fit over a 14BA crank pin bolt and bush (very small).

 

If you want to experiment the Alan Gibson 4M92 Universal Adjustable coupling rod would probably be the best option. http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Catalogue.pdf,

 

If you have access to a small pillar drill and accurately measure the wheel centres, you could try and make up a set of rods using KS strip or rail filed flat like the Workbench photo of the GSWR A1 4-8-0. Once you are happy with the running, you can file the rods to their final shape.

[controller]

Hi Mayner, Thanks for all your advice. No there are no names or numbers anywhere on the loco . It has no working parts inside. I have fitted a dcc headlight. I got the loco from a workmate about forty years ago. I have seen the 4m92 Universal Adjustable coupling rod on the Alan Gibson site, and have been in touch with them by e-mail. That might work. It would be good to see the old girl up and running again. Thanks again.

 

Controller.

[Broithe]

Hi Mayner, Thanks for all your advice. No there are no names or numbers anywhere on the loco . It has no working parts inside. I have fitted a dcc headlight. I got the loco from a workmate about forty years ago. I have seen the 4m92 Universal Adjustable coupling rod on the Alan Gibson site, and have been in touch with them by e-mail. That might work. It would be good to see the old girl up and running again. Thanks again.

 

Controller.

 

I think it has a bit of a Trix look about it.....

[burnthebox]

Hi controller, & may I dare, suggest even , you have look for a similar loco, maybe even 2nd hand or more even one needing repairs / spares & have a look at it's makeup, & take your repairs from it, I'm sure the purists on here will be along very soon to give you better !! more helpful suggestions, of course there's nothing wrong with doing a repair/s to a loco you have set your heart on,

[controller]

Hi Broithe, Sorry about this, but you are going to have to help me out here, and tell me what a Trix is.

[controller]

Hi Burnthebox, I agree with you 100%. I will get the old girl back on the road as soon as I can . Thanks.

 

Controller.

[GSR 800]

Trix is a company that builds model locomotives etc, they did make American locos as well

[Broithe]

Hi Broithe, Sorry about this, but you are going to have to help me out here, and tell me what a Trix is.

 

http://www.trix.co.uk/

[controller]

Thanks Broithe, Showed it to the people in Trix. They say it is not one of theirs. Perhaps it is just a cheap import. I will keep looking.

 

Controller.

[Broithe]

Thanks Broithe, Showed it to the people in Trix. They say it is not one of theirs. Perhaps it is just a cheap import. I will keep looking.

 

Controller.

 

Yeah - looking at it again, the wheels do look a bit "Hong Kong".

 

That might also explain the lack of a maker's mark.