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gswr 101

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love the early part of this thread about the track

 

I wonder is there anything out that that approximates the flat plate style chair and fang bolt used to lay light FB rail in sidings etc, lots of claremorris was laid in this

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Alan An easy way of keeping axles square is to use a jig made by Brassmasters which is series of parallel slots.I've just used it for a couple of Bandon convertables,as for the SSM w irons i use them and wedge the wobbly bit solid,it seems to work on Valencia Hope this is some use Andy.

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Thanks, Glenderg. I'll see if I can manage a bit of progress over Christmas - probably shut the network down for 2 weeks, put on a replacement bus, then get out the soldering iron.

 

Excellent, Alan!:ROFL:

On a par with JB's parody on permanent way weed removal a while back!

 

I'll try not to make a habit of it.

 

Alan

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Alan An easy way of keeping axles square is to use a jig made by Brassmasters which is series of parallel slots.I've just used it for a couple of Bandon convertables,as for the SSM w irons i use them and wedge the wobbly bit solid,it seems to work on Valencia Hope this is some use Andy.

 

Thanks Andy. Do you know, I actually have one of those and one of the last things I did the last time I was modelling was to actually smack myself on the head, say D'oh, and get it out.

 

:doh::doh:Then I ran out of time.

 

 

On an unrelated matter:

 

I've a problem with my drilling. I can mark the place where I want to drill carefully - engineer's square, dividers, inter-cert maths approved method for bisecting an line, everything carefully marked out and centre punched, then set to work with the archimedes drill to avoid the sort of drift you get with the dremel. Then I take the drill out of the hole to examine my handiwork and it has ALWAYS and INEVITABLY moved at least 0.25mm, often more like 0.5mm. It doesn't sound much, but if you're trying to make something to within a few 100ths of a mm tolerance, and people keep telling you it will fall off if you don't, it's a bit of a pain. Has anyone out there got any top tips that don't involve expensive machine tools. Clearly a pillar drill with a proper chuck on the base to hold work would solve the issue, but I don't think I'd get away with setting one up in the study. Not an immediate worry though due to general lack of progress.

 

Alan

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It might also help if you use a pin chuck rather than an Archimedes drill as there is less chance of the drill wandering as it is always cutting,if you need any extra swear words i've a good collection of them from my Swindon days,Andy.

  • Funny 1

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Thanks guys. I use an engineer's scriber which seems to have a better point than the dividers I use to mark out the parallel lines (check 1). I do a starter hole with a 0.4mm drill (check 2). And I've tried the pin chuck as well as the archimedes with, I thought, less success, probably because it tends to wander while I'm turning it (check 3). Maybe I don't have the hole deep enough before I start drilling.

 

Maybe I should just admit that I'm not very good at this.

 

Maybe I should just try harder.

 

At least I can see the hole is off centre. I suppose that's a start.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Alan

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