Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Great work Tony, how are you connecting to the points?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 1mm wire is bent at a right angle up through the tie bar from under the baseboard and then out through the front edge of the baseboard frame. I'm sure there is a small knob I can get with a grub screw that will attach to the ends of the wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Tony, just go's to show what can be done when you think about things, & of course saving on monies, which can be spent on the important things like........makes things more mechanical !! just as it was...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks BurntheBox, just this moment finished the remainder of the layout and tested all track after wiring back together again. Everything runs well and its nice not having to stretch over the layout to manually change points.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Today I connected copper coated 1mm wire to some of the points in my layout using flexible curtain wire as the outer sleeve to slide inside. The wire was fixed to the underside of the baseboard with cable clips that I screwed in position. The movement of the points are sound and all I need to do is source small knobs to attach the wire. Total cost less than £1

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27294[/ATTACH]

 

That's clever and very neat. Your progress is impressive and inspiring. It seems only a few weeks ago you were asking for advice on track planning software. :) Enjoy watching your layout progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I'm on the look out now for a small push/pull knob that I can slip over the ends of the wire to give me something to hold when operating the points. I'm thinking of a small knob with grub screw on the side that I can tighten to secure the wire.

 

Should I trim off the small lugs on the peace points that are normally used when changing with finger tips?

Edited by TonyMcGartland

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, everyone who has followed Omagh North. My track is laid, wired, tested and points now on mechanical wire and tube system. Am I right to go ahead with painting of the rails? I've no plans on buying an airbrush so can someone advise on a couple of things.

1. The correct paint/make/name to purchase

2. Best brush for the job

3. Do I avoid contact with sleepers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
Ok, everyone who has followed Omagh North. My track is laid, wired, tested and points now on mechanical wire and tube system. Am I right to go ahead with painting of the rails? I've no plans on buying an airbrush so can someone advise on a couple of things.

1. The correct paint/make/name to purchase

2. Best brush for the job

3. Do I avoid contact with sleepers?

 

The only advice I can suggest is to avoid model 'rust' coloured paints as it can look too stark with an unpleasant red/orange tint and unreal when scaled to N and 00. Personally I found very diluted sleeper grime from rail match looked well on rail sides and if it goes on the sleepers as well the whole lot looks blended and subtle (i.e. not over bearing). The main thing is to just get the bright shine off nickel silver rail sides in typical indoor lighting. Sleeper grime can be hand brushed before ballasting, or if spraying you can choose to do it before or after ballasting. Main thing is to thin it enough so it's translucent on rail sides (i.e. they end up looking dull and dusty rather than painted). But any dull brown colour washed on would do.

Edited by Noel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No better man to advise on paint, thanks Noel.

I presume that I'm going for acrylic based paints, I imagine the oil based would be quite messy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I presume that I'm going for acrylic based paints, I imagine the oil based would be quite messy.

 

Unlike enamels which are solvent based, acrylics are less smelly and don't give off noxious fumes, and being water soluble can easier to touch up and clean.

 

Sleeper grime on rail sides and on sleepers

5cedcb9070e2d8f483bbebbf567b1c3e.jpg

 

IMG_1176.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm on the look out now for a small push/pull knob that I can slip over the ends of the wire to give me something to hold when operating the points. I'm thinking of a small knob with grub screw on the side that I can tighten to secure the wire.

 

Should I trim off the small lugs on the peace points that are normally used when changing with finger tips?

 

Andy Cundick uses a simple slide "On / off" switch to move his points of Castlederg et al. I've forgotten how he tensions it - but there is a nut / bolt associated somewhere at the control end of the wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leslie, I got a sample piece of Andy's 'System' that he kindly made up for me. Unfortunately the small DPDT switches are a bit fiddly for my 'sausage sized' fingers. In the meantime I have simply screwed a piece of electrician block connectors to each wire and it does the job until I find a suitable knob. Thanks for that Leslie.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Noel, I am assuming that the picture (TOP) is the real thing and the one below the model. The grass looks like it really is growing. What is the ballast type you're using - looks great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

As a young boy I walked home from school along the railway, it had just closed and I remember clearly picking my way along the paths created by railway employees and permanent way men. The granite chips were grey though I do recall a brown rusty deposit on them. I think Noel has been able to replicate this well on his samples by spraying along the sleeper ends over the ballast.

 

As for track painting - I found that it took two coats to really kill the shine of the Peco rails. I also think that rusted rail and pretty heavy in colour and therefore may even take a third coat of slightly deluted Rail Match sleeper grime.

Edited by TonyMcGartland

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Noel, I am assuming that the picture (TOP) is the real thing and the one below the model. The grass looks like it really is growing. What is the ballast type you're using - looks great!

 

Hi Tony. Apologies I missed this question last week. Top picture used:

 

Ballast = Javis Granite Chippings (extra fine) REF JXG7 7lb

Static Grass = Heki Nr 3360 Sommerwiese 100g (ie Summer Meadow)

 

Bottom picture was Woodland scenics medium buff ballast. Both top and bottom were lightly airbrushed once with Railmatch acrylic sleeper grime diluted 50/50% with acrylic thinners. The airbrush made one pass for each rail side, one for the sleepers between the rails, and one for each ballast shoulder.

 

As a young boy I walked home from school along the railway, it had just closed and I remember clearly picking my way along the paths created by railway employees and permanent way men. The granite chips were grey though I do recall a brown rusty deposit on them. I think Noel has been able to replicate this well on his samples by spraying along the sleeper ends over the ballast.

 

As for track painting - I found that it took two coats to really kill the shine of the Peco rails. I also think that rusted rail and pretty heavy in colour and therefore may even take a third coat of slightly deluted Rail Match sleeper grime.

 

Did you use a paint brush or airbrush for the rail sides?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Noel, I brush painted the rails, two coats with a small artists brush. When dry, I touched up any parts I missed. I must admit I thought it looked better as it got darker.

I'm now planning on using a fine grey granite ballast to finish. I've no idea how much it is going to take.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Finished painting the rail sides today and tomorrow in better light will run down the top of the rails with a little emery paper. Is it ok to ballast next? The track looks great, looking forward to seeing the detailing come together. Is it ok to cut away the small manual 'finger tip' tie bar extensions on the Peco points? They look ghastly! I got Woodland Scenics fine grey ballast. I was surprised to see how fine it actually was. Is this ok?

Edited by TonyMcGartland

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tony, try to avoid using abrasives to clean the track. A solvent would be better as it does not mark the railheads. Cut away those little finger tips, just be careful!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
Tony, try to avoid using abrasives to clean the track. A solvent would be better as it does not mark the railheads. Cut away those little finger tips, just be careful!

 

+1

 

Don't scratch the rails with rough materials because the abrasions will collect track dirt ever after

Edited by Noel
typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Noel and Mike, glad you said no to use the emery paper, was a very fine grade. I started doing a little last night but will finish with a solvent and cloth today. The Woodland Scenics grey ballast looks really awful, I've bought one of those shakers full and to be honest I feel its so grey! Here's a small sample, laid but not glued.whats your opinion?

 

IMG_0436.jpg

Edited by TonyMcGartland

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's the colour of new ballast, Tony, which I suspect would not have been in abundance in Omagh goods yard within your period!

 

I would mix with other types perhaps, and weather it when all put in place.

 

Oil and coal dust, general wear and tear, and (within the yard) a good degree of a trampling effect, i.e. not crisp and pristine, flattened down a lot, would be evident too. Add a few small weeds at the ends of the sidings and in corners and there ye go!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
Noel and Mike, glad you said no to use the emery paper, was a very fine grade. I started doing a little last night but will finish with a solvent and cloth today. The Woodland Scenics grey ballast looks really awful, I've bought one of those shakers full and to be honest I feel its so grey! Here's a small sample, laid but not glued.whats your opinion?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27463[/ATTACH]

 

Hi Tony

 

It should look a lot better when its weathered in.

 

In the sample below I used Woodland scenics 'buff' coloured 'medium' ballast which looked hideous straight out of the container, but after it had been weathered with a single spray of 'sleeper' grime, which btw painted the rails sides, sleepers and ballast in one go, it looked a lot better (see below). The 'buff' like the 'grey' is very bright straight out of the container and contrasts too much with the plastic sleepers, but the overspray of sleeper grime on top of the lot blends it all together. I will try and dig out a photo where I used 'grey' medium ballast.

 

Woodland scenics medium buff ballast after the ballast, sleepers and rails over sprayed once with RailMatch sleeper grime. The overspray does a lot to blend the whole lot together removing stark contrasts.

IMG_1176.jpg

 

IMG_1182.jpg

 

The track in the pic above in on a 3mm track bed which would be suitable out in the country side to create a shoulder, but in the environs of railway stations not needed as it would all have been fairly flat (i.e. like photos of Omagh North). Perhaps make the ballast area just a little wider than the track in your photo.

 

In my case I did not pre-paint the track work, nor rails, I just over sprayed the lot in one go once the ballast/pva/water mix had dried. Before the overspray the buff looked ridiculously bright compared to the unpainted sleepers.

 

TIP - How I removed paint from rail surface: After over spraying the track, ballast and rails with sleeper grime (50% thinned), while it was still wet, I used my index finger tightly wrapped with a small piece of kitchen paper to run along the top of the rail and removed most of the paint just from the top of the rail, being careful not to come into contact with the top of the rail sides, sleepers nor ballast. Than about an hour or two later before the acrylic paint had cured, but was touch dry I used a cotton bud just dampened with methylated spirits to run along the top of the rail to remove any residual paint. It comes off much easier at this early stage before it has had time to fully cure.

Edited by Noel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Hi Tony

Two pics below of woodlands before and after the airbrush was used to weather and blend the ballast, rail and sleepers. As you can see, before looks hideous and toy like, but the after looks dulled and less contrast. Air brushed using railmatch sleeper grime thinned 50% with acrylic thinners. It might also save you having to hand paint the rail sides as a separate step.

 

Before

IMG_1173.jpg

 

After

IMG_1182.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

 

This is a pic (below) of the ballast still wet just after I had applied the water PVA glue mix to it using an eye dropper. I first gently sprayed tap water on the dry ballast after it had been positioned, to wet it so PVA mix would flow through it, and then used an eye dropper to apply PVA/water mix (50/50%) (few drops of fairy liquid in mix) and allowed it to dry for 24hr before painting. You can see from pic below its fairly wet but when PVA/water has dried it is clear with no visible PVA.

 

IMG_1123.jpg

Edited by Noel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Noel, all this advice helps. What track are you using by the way?

I'm thinking seriously now about the move to a new garden shed which will mean that Omagh North could be relocated and take on a whole new design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×

Important Information

Terms of Use