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murrayec

Inchicore Class J10 Conversion From LNER J72

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Model master at work - superb. :tumbsup: They say leading artists have a great eye - you certainly do.

 

Eoin, I notice you went for plasticard rather than brass for the valance sides, do you have a method to stop it potentially warping with age? Noel

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Thanks guys

 

 

I notice you went for plasticard rather than brass for the valance sides, do you have a method to stop it potentially warping with age? Noel

 

The only bit of the valances overhanging are the steps the rest is more than 50% glued to the footplate, and as I mentioned earlier the steps will be reinforced with brass strip behind supported off the footplate somehow?, the splashers and repairs to smokebox will have epoxy laced on on underside and there are two little air holes at the back of the sandboxes for ventilation!!

 

Eoin

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Noel,

 

Be questioning Eoin on this craic, he's probably got a sketchbook bursting to the seams with ideas of how and how not to do it :P Something tells me he's got a mad plan before he plugs in his flux capacitor, and all we get to see is the final result.

 

I'm really enjoying these posts, and am looking forward to the end result, but that spring detail has me slightly childishly giddy, it is that good.

 

Richie.

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I never start a project without a few sketches or I sketch as I go...

 

'The Book'

 

SB-01 IMAG3080.jpg

 

Eoin

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....Sketch as I go;-

 

Sketch As I Go-00.jpg

 

I scan these and save them in the project directory or if I have done a CAD drawing I insert the scan into the drawing, keeps it all together for future ref.

 

Eoin

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Thanks Eoin. That work is really precise, neat and looks superb.

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A few more bits done this evening...

 

Dissembled the running gear, de-greased and prepared for painting, some masking to the wheel tyres and then it will be handed over to the paint shop- I have some A bogie side patterns filled and undercoat painting is happening tomorrow.

J10C-33 IMAG3081.jpg

 

Next is repairs to a missing break shoe n lever, using the blue putty moulding stuff- the two sides of the mould were made to plastic cast a replacement, it looks like they will work but wont know until I try it.

J10C-34 IMAG3083.jpg

 

J10C-35 IMAG3084.jpg

 

J10C-36 IMAG3088.jpg

 

Then the chassis holes were drilled and tapped 12BA for the electrical connections for the DCC chip- I do like a chamfer on my holes, it makes them look very neat!

J10C-37 IMAG3087.jpg

 

I'll make two little PB tabs to solder the wires to.

J10C-38 IMAG3090.jpg

 

Noel, you'll like this tool- it's a sensitive feed chuck for small hole drilling in a pillar drill or mill, the smallest is .3mm. Its mounted in the machine chuck and set spinning, one then grabs that knurled aluminium disk just above the little chuck, and pushes down to drill the hole. There is a spring loaded shaft that allows travel of up to 16mm depth and that its in your hand one can feel what's happening, it can also be used for tapping- very handy for those small threads like 12 n 14BA

J10C-39 IMAG3086.jpg

 

Eoin

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Motor hacking tonight...

 

The analogue connections to the motor brushes were severed by cutting the ends off the brush retaining clips, before this was done a 1.5mm hole was drilled through the clip and into the plastic motor plate- this is for the new DCC wiring connection and to retain the modified clips on the motor plate. When the retaining clips were removed to cut them, the 1.5mm holes in the plastic motor plate were tapped M2 to take the new retaining screw, and the holes in the clips opened up to take the screw.

 

J10C-40 IMAG3104.jpg

 

All the bits

J10C-41 IMAG3105.jpg

 

All the bits trial assembled

J10C-42 IMAG3107.jpg

 

and the PB tabs for the electrical pick-ups from the chassis

J10C-43 IMAG3108.jpg

 

...these screws are not fully necessary, as one could always take the pick-up from the two motor plate screws that connect to the chassis and did the analogue thing...

 

Eoin

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Clever and very neat.

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Just a small little job this evening...

 

I had a go at casting the break shoe and hanger from the mould shown above, all worked fine, so set about fixing it on to the chassis keeper plate. This plastic is like the stuff they use to encase motors and very hard to glue to, so I decided to use a .45mm NS dowel to give it support, drilled into the plate and trimmed, with a corresponding hole in the plastic casting, roughed it all up with the fibre pen, then cyanoed (the blue one) it and forced it all together....

 

J10C-44 IMAG3110.jpg

 

J10C-45 IMAG3111.jpg

 

J10C-46 IMAG3112.jpg

 

Eoin

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A bit of J10-ing today....

 

The break shoe repair was very successfully and the wheels, rods, & chassis keeper plate are in the paintshop, under-coated and ready for the finish!

 

The existing buffer shanks were cut off after sizing up the sprung buffers from Dart Castings, the white metal cast shanks are for a coach with round fixing plates- it's the lower one in the photo of the shanks, so I turned up my own in aluminium. This was sized to fit the existing plates on the buffer beam and fitted after the holes were opened up.

J10C-47 IMAG3134.jpg

 

J10C-48 IMAG3135.jpg

 

They work well, may have to shorten them a bit but I'll wait until I test fit the chassis and see how the coupler works?

J10C-49 IMAG3137.jpg

 

 

So I then set about putting it all together, the valances n steps were glued on and a few stick on rivets added, rivets were also added to the smokebox door. The dart was made from brass rods- 1mm shaft and .5mm handles tapered in the Dremel and soldered into the cross drilled shaft.

 

J10C-50 IMAG3142.jpg

 

J10C-51 IMAG3143.jpg

 

The cab handrails were fitted as per the photo of 617- .45mm NS wire and a few brass handrail knobs on the lower rails. The whistles were made up from .45mm NS wire and brass tube slid over, the washers at the base of the whistles were made from the 1mm rivet tool with a hole in the middle- these are used elsewhere on the rails n things.

 

J10C-52 IMAG3140.jpg

 

J10C-53 IMAG3141.jpg

 

The sandboxes were glued on with their actuator rods and a bit of NS wire for the steam supply- I'm guessing here! The control pipes to the smokebox are .45mm NS wire with styrene washers n brass tube to make the entry fitting into the smokebox. The tank lids are styrene- two disks stuck together, the under one smaller to create an overhang.

 

A few more bits are required- vacuum pipes, a nut on the dome, some reinforcing to the front steps, and it's ready for paint.....

 

Eoin

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Stunning work Eoin. Just beautiful.

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Cometh the moment, comment the man, very well done Eoin, the detail on this is nothing short of amazing,

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hi there im working on a similar conversion although wont be up to your high standard i think,,,,can i ask what final color are you thinking of using

 

paul

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Hi All

 

Thanks for the great comments

 

pauldelany

 

I'm going to try Revell Matt 74, I was thinking darker with a Humbrol paint I have in stock;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/6265-Inchicore-Class-J10-Conversion-From-LNER-J72?p=101218&viewfull=1#post101218, but jhb reckons it's to dark so I picked up a few gerys at the Stillorgan show and 74 seems to be best- will know better when its out of the can....

 

Eoin

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Pure craftsmanship.

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Hi jhb

 

The body shell above is still in LNER black livery- not painted yet, I'm waiting until all fixups and bits are on before painting....

 

Here is a snippet of the Humbrol Reference Chart and a photo of the tinlet, its the middle one, the other two are for comparison- light grey and black

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28021[/ATTACH]

 

What do you reckon?

 

Eoin

 

The 67 (middle one) is a bit too dark, Eoin, but the left hand one too light. Something in between. If you get a decent recent shot of 186 out on an RPSI special (loads on Internet) that would show it.

 

The RPSI folks didn't like the (authentic) grey smokebox and chimney, thus "let" them remain dirtier thus creating an illusion of these being black, or at any rate darker. This would not have been the case when operating in GSWR / GSR / CIE days - the loco was either clean all over or dirty all over.

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hi Eoin i have just seen your total post and the paint colors,,i have a small favour to ask ,would you be willing to sell me two of your metal number boards please as there are some aspects of fine modelling that my eye sight will not let me do affectivley im living in drogheda and a member of the mrsi,,for all i know i probably know you in the real worls lol

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Thanks again all for comments

 

pauldelany

 

Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you...

 

My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:)

 

Eoin

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Thanks again all for comments

 

pauldelany

 

Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you...

 

My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:)

 

Eoin

 

 

Murray

Sailing close to the wind there

Entry will most probably be restricted for further MRSI O Gauge events

A letter of apology, signed by your mother, may go some way to restoring the status quo.

Or buns, bring loads of buns.....

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Hi all

 

The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome....

J10C-54 IMAG3155.jpg

 

J10C-55 IMAG3153.jpg

 

J10C-56 IMAG3154.jpg

 

Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post

J10C-56 IMAG3159.jpg

 

J10C-57 IMAG3160.jpg

 

J10C-58 IMAG3168.jpg

 

Oh and Noel especially for you;-

J10C-59 IMAG3156.jpg

 

Eoin

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Hi all

 

The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28318[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28319[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28320[/ATTACH]

 

Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28321[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28322[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28323[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Oh and Noel especially for you;-

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28324[/ATTACH]

 

Eoin

 

 

Splendid, splendid, splendid.

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Some painting done this weekend;-

 

Grey....

J10C-60 IMAG3175.jpg

 

Greyer... This is the Humbrol 27 matt

J10C-61 IMAG3184.jpg

 

J10C-62 IMAG3185.jpg

 

J10C-63 IMAG3186.jpg

 

and for the driver to block out the motor in the cab! He will be leaning with arm up on the cab door so decided to mould up a guy, cut his arm off and make a new one out of styrene to lean on the door. He will be cut off at chest height and wedged between cab side and the motor!

J10C-64 IMAG3169.jpg

 

Eoin

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Hi All,

 

Here's the question- On a steam loco was there a rule in CIE as to which side a red light was displayed front and back over the buffer beams?

 

 

 

Eoin

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On a steam loco was there a rule in CIE as to which side a red light was displayed front and back over the buffer beams?

There is nothing in the 1967 handbook. Looks like the actually revised the book after steam ended c. 1963. I don't have an older copy

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There definitely lamp codes in steam days, though I can't recall offhand the details. Must look about...

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Hi Guys

 

Great to get some input, thanks

 

I've done some searching and can only find stuff on British Lamp Codes, they discuss and display in diagrams the arrangement of lamps on the front of locos to signify types of trains, the goods they carry, and even if empty!- all white. But no mention of red lamps!

 

I found on a forum thread the same question being asked about red lamps on a station pilot, a lengthy discussion ensued but no one could inform the asker as to which side, all that was confirmed was a loco should display a red lamp on the rear.

 

I'm going for the right hand side facing the direction of travel....

 

Eoin

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