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murrayec

Walker Diesel Class F - ECMbuild in 4mm for OOn3

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Hi

Here is my take on a West Clare Walker Diesel in 4mm for a chap doing 00n3. The body is a Worsley Works brass etch which looks very nice and shiny in its bag, after doing a bit of research I reckon it will need a few extra holes and some score lining...

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Extra .5mm holes being added for; - Head Lamps, Marker lights, Water fill, Exhaust brackets, Screen wipers, Horns, Vacuum pipes, & Couplers. This was all done with the parts still in the sprue as its easier to hold this way.

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After cutting out the chassis and cab parts, removing the cusp and sizing things up, a plan of action was formulated. There will be four main components to build as individual items- Chassis, Cab, Bonnet 1, & Bonnet 2. When these parts are complete it will be decided how to put it together. 

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I left some of the sprue in the chassis to give a bit of reinforcement while building, this will be removed when the time comes.

After playing with the cab parts for a while I decided it was time to build the jig I had been thinking about for holding body parts while soldering. This cab is a bit twee and just about fits together, there is a few gaps when assembled on the chassis, I think the magic etch offset line was not used so gentile persuasion will be required and a jig is the man for this!

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This unit is designed to be adaptable for other kits n stuff

Windows on first, slightly ajar

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Then three sides are jigged up, the chassis has slots and half etched lines to aid, but the parts just don't quite make it- a bit of filling later I think. The fourth side goes on when the other three are soldered. Tack soldering here only, to get it held in place, then finally soldering off the jig to complete.

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Then the roof was slip rolled and sized up, it comes short at the sides! ah thats for the gutters, those little 1x.4mm brass lengths below in the photo.

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The gutters were sweated onto the roof sides and the roof and cab were jigged up as below. Spacers were used to support the curve of the roof, aluminium ones under the gutters so they wont stick, and mild pressure applied with jiggery-poke to line it all up. Tack soldered first and then soldered all over while still in the jig.

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and done, a nice little cab with straight and perpendicular bits and the gutters stayed in place!

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Eoin

 

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Great start, Eoin, and looking forward to more progress updates. The F class were fascinating locos. :)

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Really looking forward to the rest of this Eoin. It looks really good so far as does the jig you are using. I always love to see people taking on a Worsley Works kit as they are demanding.

Rich,

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Eoin, I love the way can take a bit of metal or plactic  and turn it into a work of art - you're a bit like a plastic surgeon...only not as well paid!!!9_9

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heirflick

Where did you get that kit! I'd like to stick one of them together :D

Thanks

Eoin

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Eoin you take model engineering to a new level.  You make working with brass look easy, yet it is not easy to do well, but you do, again and again.  We can all learn from your continuous ingenuity.  You are a brassmaster!  Love watching your projects evolve from conception to finish. A master class.

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Worsley did a G scale version of this too. A relative has one and it's a fine looking beast.

The West Clare actually makes a superb subject for G scale.

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Very nice. I really like your jig for holding the parts in place as they set/are soldered

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Thanks for the tips can you explain more about how you made the Jig? and what did you use and how did you go about making it

I could do with one of them for all my kits, I have been buying all the bits to do all three of these in 00n3  I have three sets of White metal bogies, but it is suggested you use bigger size that scale wheels in them, I am not convinced about that, so I will be buying 9mm dia wheel sets as opposed to the 10.5mm size as suggested by the bogie manufacture.  

Edited by Colin R

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It does make up into a nice bit of kit.Mine has a pair of motor bogies from Mike Chinery which does give it a bit of poke.Really needs a West Clare layout to run on,but has to make do with Castlederg or Arigna still you never know!Andy.

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5 hours ago, Colin R said:

Thanks for the tips can you explain more about how you made the Jig? and what did you use and how did you go about making it

I could do with one of them for all my kits, I have been buying all the bits to do all three of these in 00n3  I have three sets of White metal bogies, but it is suggested you use bigger size that scale wheels in them, I am not convinced about that, so I will be buying 9mm dia wheel sets as opposed to the 10.5mm size as suggested by the bogie manufacture.  

Hi Colin R

The jig is a sheet of 9mm MDF with two screw holes on the centre line to hold, from the underside, different blocks of MDF to mount the chassis on- all depending on the job. Then there are a number of 4mm threaded inserts fixed into the base dispersed around the work area to take M4 threaded rods to clamp down the model parts with lolly-pop sticks  supported with off cut bits of timber to the rear of the sticks to allow clamping. M4 threaded bar is impossible to buy so I used bolts with the heads cut off and made up a few brass threaded sleeves to join two rods together. When setting up the clamps the support timber to the rear should be higher than the part being clamped, and as far away from the threaded rod as can be so the main down force is on the part, holes in the LP stick should be 4.5 - 5mm to allow the stick to be angled. The clamping force required on the nut is small, just enough to pinch it. New holes can be drilled in all this stuff for other jobs......

The second clamp seen above is a new soldering jig I made out of hardwood, my old one made with MDF started to bloat with the flux and heat so while making the kit jig I made a new one. It's featured here, the old one that is;-

You mention bogies in your post, are they for the Walker? if so can you post up a few pictures to give us a look at them, thanks

Eoin

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1 hour ago, Andy Cundick said:

It does make up into a nice bit of kit.Mine has a pair of motor bogies from Mike Chinery which does give it a bit of poke.Really needs a West Clare layout to run on,but has to make do with Castlederg or Arigna still you never know!Andy.

Hi Andy

Any chance you could post up or pm me a few photos of the bogie sides? even better if you could post a picture of Mike Chinery's complete bogies? and does Mike still make these?

Thanks

Eoin

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10 hours ago, murrayec said:

heirflick

Where did you get that kit! I'd like to stick one of them together :D

Thanks

Eoin

Jaysus Eoin - that's my sister you are talking about!  Go and give yourself ten lashes o' the whip!

whip.jpg

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1 hour ago, murrayec said:

Hi Andy

Any chance you could post up or pm me a few photos of the bogie sides? even better if you could post a picture of Mike Chinery's complete bogies? and does Mike still make these?

Thanks

Eoin

Mikes stopped doing complete bogies but i believe he still supplies castings,i'd love to post photos but havn't a clue howto Andy.

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Hi Guys

Yes Mike did stopped making the bogies and a lot of other things as well, But you can still buy the kits from Mike Savage at:-

http://www.5andahalf.info/pdf/prices.pdf

 email him on m.savage80@ntlworld.com

 

I am not sure how much they are now since I got mind a few year ago, due to not have anyone to make them up you have to buy your own motors, axles, gears, wheels etc to complete the kit, I only purchase the white metal castings hence why they are not yet made up.

If you want to get all the other bits all at once you can contain Brian of Branchlines

Brian Osborne  on sales@branchlines.com

Sadly they don't have a website which is up to date but they will supply data sheets of there range if you ask for them which is loco kits narrow gauge 00n3,  motors, gear boxes and wheels on another and standard gauge brass coach kits which I think could be use as a basis to make up a few odd Irish prototypes of years gone by.

my bits are in the shed so I will try and dig them out tomorrow.

Colin

 

 

 

 

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Hi Colin R

I found pictures of the Chinery Bogies on the other site! and also info on Mike Savage- thanks for the above contact info

While doing the Google search, it lead me back to the Bullant bogies, I developed a bogie for the DART model like a Bullant which I don't use any more, but I did buy gears and shafts from Branchlines to motorise them back at the time! I may revisit for this project...

It needs a bit of working out but I have the parts and it could be fun.

Still interested in seeing the bits, especially if you have bogie sides.....

Eoin

 

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If I recall they are a complete casting and you have to fit the axles through the sides at the same time as you fit the wheels and gearing, I am thinking about use Nigel Lawton parts instead small but powerful can motors and drive belts I have seen these in action and they are very quiet, you can see the details here:-

http://www.nigellawton009.com/VeeTipper.html

 

Colin

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Hi all

Thanks for the comments and likes

I had a go at one of the bonnets last night and it was a challenge to get things right. After cutting the parts out, removing the cusps and sizing things up I worked out that the half etch lines for folding the bonnet start to early on the sides and the lines are poorly etched- so out with the scrawker to make them deeper.

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This photo shows the etch lines, the 3 decent looking ones are the early ones, the fold starts above these, the ones above, where we are folding need the scrawker, this shot also shows the 2mm dia steel rod to do the folding around

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The plan of action, bend the corners first, then the top

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This photo shows the set up I used for folding the corners in the Hold & Fold, pushing down on the 2mm rod while raising the folding blade. The brass was annealed before attempting this.

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After a fair bit pushing n shoving the assembly came out pretty close, good enough to tack solder and refine the shape. Ouch time- this is going to be done in the fingers as no real way to clamp this! lolly pop sticks help here between the fingers and the heat

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All soldered up and in shape, it will need the half etched lines filled with solder and a touch of a file on the outside to hide the fold line impression that comes through the brass- thats for later!

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Test fitting

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Starting to look like a Walker Diesel I think

Eoin

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Coming along sweet as a nut Eoin.   A lot more finicky than the G version!  I look forward to the motorising description.

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I have tried looking for those bogies, but I must have put them in a safe place, as I can't find them at the moment:D.

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Thanks Weshty

Yes, I know the Hallery motors and it is under consideration

Eoin

 

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OK not sure how this is going to work out but here goes I have taken some photos in not ideal conditions I may add but these are the Mike Chinery Bogies as you now get them I hope these help.

In the kit you get the main bogie casting itself two side frames a motor mount casting and some etchings for the flyweights. 

Colin

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Edited by Colin R
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Hi Colin,

thank you for the fotos, thats really good information on the topic. Do I get that right: The wohle motor/cogwheel/axle arrangement is no more provided from Michael Chinery? Are there instead any suggestions where to buy what material, i.e. motor, axles, wheels, cogwheels, wormgears? I often changed wheels on existing axles to get vehicles with smaller flanges (RP 25 instead of sth. else) but building a gear on my own seems rather... embarassing.

Cheers,

Gerhard

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Hi Gerhard

You don't have to be embarrassed Gerhard there is just so much stuff out there on the shelf as such, that there is very little point in trying to make the bits that do the work, but to use that time to make the the pretty bits we all look at.  

As for the white metal castings these can still be purchased from the 5.5mm Society from Mike Savage at:-

http://www.5andahalf.info/pdf/prices.pdf

 email him on m.savage80@ntlworld.com

The loco kit itself from Worsley Works

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/NG/NG_Irish.htm

 

As for wheels & axles I would suggest Markits:- 

http://www.markits.com/

The catalogue can take up some time to look through so make sure you have a cup of Tea or Coffee to hand before you start

Motors and gear boxes can be obtained from Brian at Branchlines sadly he has no website but you can contact him at the following email address:-  Brian Osborne  on sales@branchlines.com

Ask him to send you his downloadable motor and gearbox sheet, I think you will find a lot of information on it 

Another supplier of motors and  drive units is Nigel Lawton 009 at http://www.nigellawton009.com/VeeTipper.html

These aren't the only suppliers out there, I am sure there are others, But I have not dealt with anyone else so far.

Some one who may be able to help out is Roxey Mouldings at http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/

or  dave@roxeymouldings.co.uk

In the case of useful research to help fellow modellers I have come across this:-

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/1121-motors-and-gearboxes-notes-on-types-and-uses/

I haven't read it but it looks useful

For gearboxes have a look at this site:-

http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/motors-gearboxes-oo-ho-scale/

One last place to look at is the 3SMR site:-

http://www.3smr.co.uk/motors.html

As you can see so much of it is now made it is just a case of working out what you want and buying it all in.

3SMR are one of the places I get my 12mm gauge axles from

Hope this lot helps

Colin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi

I picked up a few odds n ends at the Stillorgan Show yesterday that could work on this project - motors, bogies and things....

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This looks like an early spud motor? and is the most suitable

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and a chap brought in a Halling motor, to the show, to give me a look see, thanks Joe, great to see and photo it

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Should be able to get something going from this lot

Eoin

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