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Noel

Kingsbridge - DCC / Electronics

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I've been trying to figure out the simplest and most cost effective solution for coach lighting and tail lamps for brake vans, coaches, etc.  I've looked at some of Train-Tech's battery offerings and others, but decided to experiment by trying to 'grow' my own.

Experiment no 1 - Tail Lamp - Runs off track DCC, no decoder required, flicker free.  Same circuit would do for coach lighting. On all the time.

IMG_3816.jpg

 

It's about 1978 since I last used a bread board, but I have to say its fun going back. 

IMG_3817.jpg

 

Components used in test

  • 3v Red LED (or LED lighting strip for coach interior)
  • Bridge rectifier (converts 16v pulsed DCC/AC to 12v DC)
  • 1k Resistor to drop voltage to approx 3v suitable for LEDs
  • 1k Trimmer resistor to adjust light level
  • 1000uF capacitor - avoids flicker if wheel pickup interrupted while running (e.g. over points, etc). 

The little Red LED that I have sourced is almost the same shape as a tail lamp with a flat bottom, curved top and 1.8m lens so I will paint it white except for the 'lens' and it might pass as a tail lamp.  

. . . more to follow when I fit it to a brake van and test run on track, then a coach. Have to decide wither I will use axle spring pickups or phosphor bronze strips to wheel backs for electrical pickup.

PS: I ordered these parts only last night from Farnell and Radionics and to my astonishment both were delivered this morning!!!

Edited by Noel
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I wonder if it might be worth painting it black and then over-painting it white, to avoid 'bleed through'?

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23 minutes ago, Broithe said:

I wonder if it might be worth painting it black and then over-painting it white, to avoid 'bleed through'?

Thats a good idea. :tumbsup:

This is the LED I'm using for tail lamps http://ie.farnell.com/kingbright/l-2060hd/led-1-8mm-red/dp/1142456

Its the same one sold by Train-tech as a tail lamp.

42250824.jpg

Edited by Noel
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8 minutes ago, Noel said:

Thats a good idea. :tumbsup:

Actually, thinking about it a bit more, I might suggest using silver paint - it's generally just as opaque as black but is a better 'undercoat' for white. I generally use that for added opacity on the resin buildings, if they're going to be lit - in those circumstances you have the bonus of less light attrition from the paint surface.

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SSM have whitemetal taillamps, old and new style that can be installed with 0.8mm LEDs and 1.8k ohm resistors (included in the pack). 

A 2.2 µF capacitor in parallel with the Led will reduce flickering.

Edited by Weshty
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