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Kirley

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Curious question though - how come everything runs "wrong line"? QUOTE]

 

The answer Achill is quite involved and technical in the extreme but to simplify it down to its most basic form I put the trains on the track the wrong way round! Thanks for your comment by the way.

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Hahaha excellent Kirley. Forgot to mention that GNR style building is also amazing. I'm taking it by the red phone box we're somewhere about South Armagh! Or Strabane!

 

Actually, the one and only time I was at Strabane station (immediately after closure, unfortunately) there was a red letter box on the platform...

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Hidden Agenda suggested I need more Cattle Wagons which prompted me to dig out a batch of Provincial Wagons kits I had bought almost a year ago.

 

KirleyJunction-CattleWagons002_zpsd1d15f36.jpg

 

The kits are easy enough to put together but I adapted one so that the door can open and close. My only problem was the transfers, the rub on type, some just disintegrated when I tried to rub them on, maybe there is a shorter shelf life with this type of transfer?

 

KirleyJunction-CattleWagons011_zps98f7407a.jpg

See my layout page for more pictures

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I wanted to practice my soldering on brass kits and I had a SSM 30 Ton Brake Van kit waiting to be built. I had built one before but just used superglue.

 

I got Carr’s Green flux and Carr’s solder, fibreglass brush and adjustable soldering iron ready to go. The cutting out and filling any rough edges takes a time.

 

CIE30TBrakeVan003.jpg

 

As you can see my attempts to solder were not very neat.

 

CIE30TBrakeVan004.jpg

 

Finally got there.

 

CIE30TBrakeVan007.jpg

 

Hidden Agenda kindly gave me one of his roofs he had made and you can see right away the difference between it and the one I did previously.

 

CIE30TBrakeVan012.jpg

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I have been itching to get going on this long and eagerly awaited kit but disciplined myself to get other projects finished before starting this.

 

While I started on the kit last week I have not made much progress. After cutting out brass pieces from the etches and talking off the burs, (a job I hate) I then moved onto the resin model. I printed off the drawings from Resource Section and compared the model to them.

 

The first thing that hit me was the front profile which looked very GM. According to the drawings the front sloped from the roof to a line above the horn grill. So out with the sanding block to try a replicate this curve and I continued until I noticed the window pillars were getting very thin.

 

B101Sulzer001.jpg

 

The second thing was the grills on the side of the locomotive body. There are five grills approximately the same size as the windows and are represented on the model as indentations in the resin. On my model only two showed any clear louver detail and on the other eight they were blurred and not a clear take from the mould.

 

B101Sulzer002.jpg

 

B101Sulzer003.jpg

 

I looked at my bits box to see if I have grills I could cut to cover these and tried a few but they did not look right.

 

Maybe I’m the only one with these difficulties because no one else has mentioned anything on the site to date. Anyone with suggestions would be most welcome please?

 

O Des if only you had provided brass grills for these!

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Kirley,

 

You are right the side louvre grills are not very clear. I spoke to Des and he said it was almost impossible to get them even to what they are now as the louvres are so thin. I don't know if it's possible to etch them in Brass. Maybe when painted they won't look so bad. Windows are going to need some work.

 

Ger.

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Kirley,

 

You are right the side louvre grills are not very clear. I spoke to Des and he said it was almost impossible to get them even to what they are now as the louvres are so thin. I don't know if it's possible to etch them in Brass. Maybe when painted they won't look so bad. Windows are going to need some work.

 

Ger.

I was out in the man shed tonight and did a bit of work on the

windows.

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Kirley,

 

First thing I did was to draw a pencil line across top and bottom of all windows and then filed them to get them as even as possible. For glazing, I used the printed window sheet that was provided and placed this under a thicker plastic sheet and drew around the templates. Each one was then cut and filed to fit each window. I used a rough template of the Loco sides and ends and stuck the pieces to this with Blu Tac until I'm finished painting. The plastic I used was from the Hornby Class 55 box and is a good thickness. To secure them in place I would recommend Glue N Glaze as it dries clear and is invisible.

 

Ger.

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I was working on the windows when I remembered an aide I had used before. It’s digital callipers, I got mine from Halfords.

 

Using the bottom front of the model as a base line I used the callipers to mark out the windows top and bottom. The sharp metal edge of the tool can be used to lightly mark a straight line.

 

B101Sulzer005.jpg

 

That’s the best I can do so now it’s cutting out glazing time.

 

B101Sulzer006.jpg

 

I’ve decided to use the Class 55 chassis and it has been cut and shut and the white metal bogies added to the wheels.

 

Progress slow but steady.

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