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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thanks David / I have a tin of Brooklands Green which is also a bit dark. I’m going to try Ford meadow green I think...
  3. I've identified the addressing problem. The Roco treats addresses in the range 100-127 as long addresses. My locos had their addresses assigned to decoders by another DCC system which assigned them correctly as short addresses (ie < 128 as per NMRA) so the Roco could not address the locos until the addresses had been re-assigned by the Roco system as long addresses. Once I reprogrammed the addresses on the Roco the locos became addressable and operable again. Just another DCC quirk (USA v European manufacturers different and incompatible specs and interpretation of NMRA specs). DCC is so 1970s technology, built upon 1970s electronics. It's due a refresh IMHO. Anyway thanks to the Multimaus cab the Z21 is now functioning and useable but I'll be avoiding the touch screen phone app for shunting operations.
  4. Hi John They are all 4mm or 00n3 gauge, at one stage i had plans to build an IoMR based layout for them all to run on, but I got somewhat side tracked with the project so it has no progressed for a couple of years. Colin
  5. I originally used Ford Laurel Green from Halfords, but it is a bit dark, when compared to colour photos of the 1950s. My MGW six wheelers are on pages 2and 3 of my workbench thread if that helps.
  6. The radial trucks are based on the London Road Models ones for their LNWR radial tanks and the gearbox started out as a High Level Slimliner but now has been on a serious diet and got new sideframes. The springing does bear on the trucks as you can see in this photo. And this is where we stand now Phil
  7. thanks to all Tore the wire where it inserts to the solder, so I have to get a solder kit now 🙂
  8. something i can model,, it looks very like my layout after the kids ....
  9. Can we see the sample v the final approved, in same pic Will you raffle the sample off to us lot ? what about awarding it to best model railway layout or kit build on IRM what that? "duck down WaySide incoming"........at least this time i can say I deserved the Ire of IRM's angry mark
  10. Noel i only address a loco or five as i test track and layout, wont be doing any of the good models so i not up there yet, but i re-address a working loco on 123 nd 124, worked fine suggestions, just reboot the Z21, with those address deleted and re-prog , or download the newer app,
  11. Noel, Great minds obviously think alike. Literally minutes after my reply I checked out the very German retailer you linked! Indeed, at current euro/sterling conversion rates paying £301 pre-Brexit (plus delivery costs) stll amounts to a worthwhile saving. Better check my finances before 12th April then. Bill.
  12. Thanks David - that’s helpful. I keep finding even more errors! I tried the old Tyrconnell loco bearing trick but the axle step on carriage axles rules that out. It’ll be green I hope with Flying Snail when Railtec get them in. Found a shade of Ford green which I’m keen to try on this before the passenger stock proper gets under way...
  13. might as well talk to my self this was on Noels topic, wrong place, so i moved it here there are heaps of cheap secondhand android phones with good batteries available, get two, have one plugged in n turned off for fast charge, use the other. there is lots of DCC control systems , each will suit different users requirements , my techie son tells me the technology is 20 years old, watch out for amps 3 v 5 v 8amp, it seems in many cases the boosters need to be same amps as controller, some controllers have built in booster, others dont i reckon that in a few years all new locos will be battery operated, so for newbees voltage may not be an issue. nor wiring, even household electrical items such as wall switches and lights etc have chips in them these days. they use tech similar to DCC signal . ifs its any consolation, i am stuck on track occupancy , having wired the main layout bus in power blocks , then to find for the occupancy blocks the bus - power blocks need to be broken down into many sub blocks, which are different to the usual circuit blocks for preventing turnout shorting, so this newbes advice for any uninvested newbe is do not wire the entire layout on every track, just get the power flowing to each main block and then when everything is right about the track,drive trains and see where you will need the detectors and occupancy blocks ,, then start adding track occupancy blocks, in-advance of buying them, as there is so much to consider and so much choice, in some systems its gaps on one rail for others two rails are gapped, in other sysems the detectors aint track dependent although they send dcc signals to controllers to control lights, track sections, turnout and signals and more, as my layout grew i started gapping every turnout on all rails, using 6 insulated joiners, 8 for cross overs, why, cos it a pain lifting everything again and since track 'occult-paction' is expensive you may only do a wee bit at a time, so the price of a few rail joiners dosent hurt, and you can paint the insulated joiners to hide them if they upset you, or melt them to have one one rail re-gapped by soldering the tracks at that point, surprisingly the hornby black rail joiners are very strong and work best for me. the only hornby product i recommend not that a recommendation from this newbe is worth ballast. ah Ballast, i now use washed dried play sand under all my tracks not underlay, as all my wires are above board, unlike my self', this allows the wires flexibility, Long live DCC until battery operated locos rule on un-wired tracks with blue tooth enabled infra red detectors..
  14. That looks really tasty. The little tweaks have taken it to another level and the wait was worth it. Can't wait for mine. Such an iconic and important piece of PW equipment. I'll take the ballast and ploughs over the hobs wagons any day even though the hobs wagon rakes are impressive to see in action. Rich,
  15. there are heaps of cheap secondhand android phones with good batteries available, get two, have one plugged in n turned off for fast charge, use the other. there is lots of DCC control systems , each will suit different users requirements , my techie son tells me the technology is 20 years old, watch out for amps 3 v 5 v 8amp, it seems in many cases the boosters need to be same amps as controller, some controllers have built in booster, others dont i reckon that in a few years all new locos will be battery operated, so for newbees voltage may not be an issue. nor wiring, even household electrical items such as wall switches and lights etc have chips in them these days. they use tech similar to DCC signal . ifs its any consolation, i am stuck on track occupancy , having wired the main layout bus in power blocks , then to find for the occupancy blocks the bus - power blocks need to be broken down into many sub blocks, which are different to the usual circuit blocks for preventing turnout shorting, so this newbes advice for any uninvested newbe is do not wire the entire layout on every track, just get the power flowing to each main block and then when everything is right about the track,drive trains and see where you will need the detectors and occupancy blocks ,, then start adding track occupancy blocks, in-advance of buying them, as there is so much to consider and so much choice, in some systems its gaps on one rail for others two rails are gapped, in other sysems the detectors aint track dependent although they send dcc signals to controllers to control lights, track sections, turnout and signals and more, as my layout grew i started gapping every turnout on all rails, using 6 insulated joiners, 8 for cross overs, why, cos it a pain lifting everything again and since track 'occult-paction' is expensive you may only do a wee bit at a time, so the price of a few rail joiners dosent hurt, and you can paint the insulated joiners to hide them if they upset you, or melt them to have one one rail re-gapped by soldering the tracks at that point, surprisingly the hornby black rail joiners are very strong and work best for me. the only hornby product i recommend not that a recommendation from this newbe is worth ballast. ah Ballast, i now use washed dried play sand under all my tracks not underlay, as all my wires are above board, unlike my self', this allows the wires flexibility, Long live DCC until battery operated locos rule on un-wired tracks with blue tooth enabled infra red detectors.. sorry Noel, i copied this and moved it to my DCC thread, probably outta place here
  16. Hi Bill Thanks for the info. Yes Piko SmartControl looks an attractive option for a top end quality DCC system with the advantage of customised function buttons for sound on touch screen use, but a physical rotary knob for throttle control. Win/Win. It is in effect the same Cab as the ESU Mobile Control II which costs about €350 per cab but being wireless only one should suffice most layouts. The Piko SmartControl is retailing at €352 from German online retail sites or about £301 pre-tarrifs. The UK retail prices are not attractive always seem inflated above eurozone pricing. I switched to using various German model retailers a few years ago and found their pricing better and service exceptional. In the UK Hatton's are one of the few retailers who tend to have competitive pricing for any product ranges they carry. https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/PIKO/15-7-0-235376-003003-0-0-0-0-0-0-grp-gb-p-0/ein_produkt.html
  17. Following this one with more than usual interest, as I have one to build too! That said, the chances of me making similar mistakes and more will still be high... I've used 1/8" I/d brass tube for bearings in the past, which has worked well. An issue with Tyrconnel coach kits is they are designed for 32mm gauge, so brake gear is a bit of a faff Turning into a nice model though. Will it be green or brown?
  18. Noel, I've been contemplating going DCC for quite some time, introducing it as soon as layout construction eventually begins, Apart from the cost of enough decoders to run even a token selection of my Irish loco fleet (NOTE: I DON'T plan to equip my entire stud, only enough to fulfil the requirement for a railcar depot and adjoining P.W. yard (based on Adelaide NIR), I have spent a few years observing layouts at exhibitions and following industry advances and keeping a keen eye on system prices. I have finally come to the conclusion that a wireless system with throttle knob would be ideal. You are correct to raise the problem of having to keep looking at the sreen when using mobile phone via operating apps. This coupled with the relatively short, few hours battery life of smart phones (I don't have one, I'm still on a "dumb phone" where one charge lasts 4 -- 5 days!) has meant I hadn't found the ideal system.That is until a few weeks ago. I watch a lot of USA model railroading channels on You Tube and by chance came across "What's Neat This Week" by Ken Patterson (it was one of the Oct or Nov 2017 episodes). On it there was Matt Herman, ESU USA's general manager introducing the new ESU CabControl system - yes, the same firm famous for it's sound decoders. It's an android based, touch screen hand controller with an integral throttle knob which comes with power pack and wireless LAN control box. The ESU USA website is:www. lokSound.com and includes full demonstration videos with Matt himself explaing the system. Fantastic I thought. Until I discovered the downside, it's only available from ESU in the North American and Australian markets! ESU are still in the planning stage of introducing a European market version which seems incredible as it has been available in the USA for nearly 18 months now. However it isn't all despair....... ESU just happen to produce DCC contollers for PIKO, the German model railway manufacturer, obviously with PIKO branding. PIKO have a control system called "PIKO SMART" which is a wireless, handheld with throttle knob system. By now you should be ahead of me. The PIKO controller is 99.99% identical to ESU CabControl. Added to which it is available from UK based retailers, such as Gaugemaster and Coastal DCC among others. All it would seem to need is a two pin adapter mains plug to set it up. You could if so desired just by the throttle units to use as an add on to an existing system. But at a cost of roughly £375 per throttle you can buy the whole kit with power supply and wireless for £425. I'm sold on it and intend splashing out on one just as soon as my finances get over buying all of those new IRM A class goodies. Bill.
  19. As above , remove all the oil, general oil is a poor conductor but the need for lubrication is obvious , if you get some copper grease you'll be covered as good as you can , halfords do small tubes of it for a couple of euro.
  20. Doing Research First of all, many thanks to those who have been helping recently as I ponder the mysteries of early 20th century rolling stock. However many books and articles one has, it seems, there are still annoying gaps! Google can help at times, but when you start coming across stuff you have posted yourself, especially that which you made up, then the feeling of being up a certain creek without a paddle starts to loom. However, one thing Google led me too was Model Railway Journal, which featured several articles by Richard Chown & the legendary Castle Rackrent system. Indeed, his work has influenced my ideas a lot over the years, though I only have space for one station, while he had lots. MRJ 202 contains a very useful article with colour photos - handy in terms of liveries. One picture shows his WLW loco 'Shannon' working a very interesting train that he called the 'Mail Goods'. This includes a GSW 6w postal sorting van [built by Don Rowlands], plus the two brake vans I bought along with Shannon, after Richard died in 2017. Thus far, I'd been unable to identify these, but the caption solves it by naming them as 'brake/stowage' vans from the Dublin & Meath Railway. This was the line that ran to Athboy, but was taken over by the MGW. Not sure about the livery though - presumably the Midland would have painted them brown?Having long had a penchant for non-passenger coaching stock, the idea of a mail goods is very appealing and given that a carriage truck is also in the picture, I already have a good start for one of my own. In fact, just need a postal van! MRJ 127 meanwhile has a four page general description of the system in 1997 - though at this time the magazine old had black and white pictures. There are also hints of what an interesting character Richard was. For example he notes among his achievements as 'owning a Land Rover, designing & building my own house, & sailing around the world alone'. Remarkably, if someone else hadn't done it first, he was going to model the Cambrian Railway. Thank goodness he went along the Irish path - though he also somehow fitted in several French layouts, a Brecon & Merthyr, plus narrow gauge Norwegian as well. What a man.
  21. That looks very nice. I love the window detail.
  22. Bloody hell I think I left the hall light on....!😂 Awesome, totally awesome
  23. Hi everyone, Here is a look at the CIE plough. We got in a sample previously, but we were not happy with it in several areas, so we had to reject the sample and make tweaks. Thankfully this sample is much more like it. It caused part of the Plough delay, but we felt it best that we get it right. is will be a one off run, so don't miss out on them! https://irishrailwaymodels.com/collections/ballast-plough/products/cie-ir-ballast-plough-van-cie-era Cheers! Fran
  24. other views of greenore terrace
  25. Took a look at some photos/drawing and it looks like the NIR 70 Class power car has underfloor equipment as follows (front to rear) left hand side - pipework(?), battery box, fuel tank, equipment box right hand side - brake cylinder, battery box, pipework(?), equipment box centreline - some BR Mark 1 trussing with a small cylindrical/spherical tank hung near each end DEMU so must be some fairly invisible cabling/ducting from the engine to the two traction motors within the rear bogie. (80 Class power car seems to have the same equipment!) The intermediate and driving trailer have the fuller LMS period 3 trussing slung with a brake cylinder (and maybe something else) (also note sliding drivers window and shallow lamp brackets!)
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