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Here is another scratch built model by Mr B Kelly, a D19, one of my faves! it's in my workshop for coupling rods, break gear, electrical pick-ups and a few other bits. As it came. After measuring up, researching a few photos and doing the drawings parts were cut out of .5mm nickel silver- wheel weights, coupling rods, break gear.... The chassis was a little fat, the wheels were locking up when assembled and one axle was slightly out of line, only noticed when fitting the coupling rods- one side would go on but not the other! So that set of bearings needed a bit of adjustment and the other set had a .9mm skim taken off the faces. Some of the chassis screws were cheese head so I replaced them with counter-sunk and holes for the break hanger spigots were drilled in the frames. Jigged up to solder the bearings back in. Loco break gear coming together, these locos had double hangers with the shoe sandwiched between. The shoes are cut from Tufnol and brass .7mm pins were used to assemble. Breaks on. Breaks off. The assembly can be sprung off for painting and removing the wheels. After fitting the coupling rods I noticed they fouled the underside of running board!, so a few 1.2mm brass spacers were prepared and soldered onto the top of the frames. I also made a motor strap to lift the motor up at an angle and save space in the cab. The bogie truck was then tackled- needing a pivot, spring and a bit of side play, also going to get electrical pick-ups installed. A deep hex nut was soldered to the underside to take the pivot bar on top and the pick-up plate on the underside. I also replace the frame spacer screws from cheese-head to counter-sunk and installed a plastic washer behind each wheel. A pivot bar was turned up on the lathe and tapped 8BA to fit into that hex nut in the bogie frame. The pick-ups were then installed on the underside. This is the full pick-up system, diver wheels & bogie. A sideways slot was milled in the frame spacer to give the bogie side-play and a .5mm brass angle plate was soldered onto the bogie front to stop full rotation. The frames also required some mod at the rear wheel arch to allow clearance. Up and running. The tender was next, break hanger holes drilled, and at front- these are parts for the draw bar, the brass to be soldered between the frames and the plastic strip drilled as the draw bar with the little brass bush to allow it pivot on the back of the loco. Breaks going on and draw bar assembly installed. Breaks done. The tender had its mounting bolts broken off, so some repair needed, also spacers are needed to level the tender with the loco- using two blocks of hardwood! Done. Draw bar drilled and installed, this is the body mounting screw, the front end is held with a brass tong soldered to the back of the buffer beam. And its done, going back to its crew for a bit of painting and maybe some coal! Eoin