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Found 9 results

  1. I have a MM Class 201 DCC & DCC Sound Ready, I also have a Hornby TTS Class 67 sound chip which has a speaker attached.... you see where this is going? If one wanted to "plug in" the 67 sound chip to th 201 (which already has a speaker), how would one do this? Thx in advance! Side note: i'm not going to buy a MM CL201soundchip, its too dare at the moment for me....
  2. I have a German N Gauge ET87 railcar which does not increase its speed after speed step 14 although it is set for 28/128 speed step running. It is by Trix and has a Ct Electronics decoder version 59. The model is about 10 years old but did not come with the information you now get about CVs. I cannot find anything only line to help with the CV settings although decoder version 76 seems close in terms of default values. The default settings for those which I think are affecting the speed are CV 2 = 3 CVs 3 and 4 = 4 CV 5 = 0 CV 6 = 0 CV 29 = 2 CV 50 = 255 CV 51 = 120 CV 52 = 60 CV 64 = 100 CV 116 = 0 I changed some of the CVs including setting CV 29 to 6 but no difference. I have reset the decoder a few times to the factory settings but again no change. It almost seems like it is stuck on half speed. Has anyone any thoughts on the issue. MikeO
  3. Hi Folks. Need some help on point motor wiring. I use dcc. I have a mix of Lenz and ESU accessory decoders. I was using an old fleishmann transformer to power the switching of the point motors. It output 14 V ac. The point switching was hit and miss. I purchased an 18 V ac transformer to see if this would improve the switching. I connected it up the same way I had the old tx connected. As soon as I powered up it fried the decoder ( thankfully I only connected to one decoder to test it). 😧. Has anyone any idea why? I didn’t think an 18 v tx would do this over a 14 v tx. Can anyone tell me what and how they power their point motors? Thanks Shane.
  4. Hi Lads, Surplus to Requirements I have 2 Silver fox A class. Both are hardwired with DCC Decoders. Power by the Glorious Springfield motor. One in Silver Numbered A4 and the other in Green Number A7 Price is €150 per loco, Silver Fox are currently £165 with no DCC on Board.
  5. I'm getting back into railway modelling, and I decided that my layout would be DCC. I really have no idea about it, and I'm wondering what would be the best controller for around €100-150/best decoders for MM and how to convert DC to DCC. thanks
  6. Dear modellers, I am upgrading my DCC system and therefore I have to let my Hornby Select go. Great little set to start or to use as a back up. Comes with power supply and manual. Price 85.00 Euro I live in the north. PM if interested or query and pick up/ postage arrangement Thank you Luc
  7. I've just chipped two MM 201's with Hatton's DCR-21pin DCC decoder. Everything works fine except for the cab lights. I know the lights work as I previously had a Lokosound decoder in one of the 201s an it could control the cab light. My CV settings are as follows: CV33 = 1 CV34 = 2 CV35 = 4 CV36 = 8 CV49 = 0 CV50 = 16 CV51 = 32 CV52 = 32 F0 - controls the front and rear lights fine F1 - turns the front headlight permanently ON/OFF (now I'd ideally like the headlight to switch automatically to the rear when the loco is reversed) F2 - turns the rear headlight permanently ON/OFF F3 - Does nothing - was hoping this would turn the cab light ON/OFF I have to say that the documentation supporting DCC decoders and DCC-ready locos is pathetic. When you spend 150+ euro on a DCC ready loco and 250+ euro on DCC sound loco the lack of supporting material really isn't good enough. Posting complete CV settings on the web doesn't cost a lot. Rant over. Any help with the above would be welcome. I'm going to email Hatton's support as well and will post any response here to share with people.
  8. Just thought this may be of use, in a workshop/maintenance depot scene. I was looking through Tindie, and thought to search for DCC, and found this https://www.tindie.com/products/gfetters/arc-welder-circuit/
  9. Hi all, I've just started my first layout, well second if you include when I was a nipper! It's nothing fancy, just a 4'x2' baseboard on which to set a 00 Inglenook, or shunting puzzle. I'm using it as a test bed for my first foray into DCC. Track is Peco code 100, with electrofrog points. I've one of Tam Valley's dual frog juicers to hook the two points upto. Currently have the track wired up to the dcc bus, and the loco can run to the end of all sidings & across the points at a crawl without stalling, so I'm happy with that. I'm using the NCE Power Cab for my controller, and find it easy enough to get the hang of. I picked up an 8 pack of bachmann 12t vans to use in the shunting puzzle. I tried popping out the tension lock couplers on them, and fitting kadee #19 couplers in their place, but they appear to sit a tad too low. Looking on the kadee site, they recommend #5 couplers for bachmann branchline wagons, so I've ordered some of them to try out instead. The #19 coupler appears to be at the correct height when fitted to a MM141, which is the loco I plan to use. I'm waiting on some on/off/on toggle switches for remote point control. I have peco point motors, the pl10e, to fit under the baseboard. On that, can I ask for some info on point motors and dcc? The point motors says to use a 16v supply, so is this seperate from the dcc bus then? I have access to plenty of used laptop power supplies - can they be used for powering point motors? Anyway, heres a link to my flickr page with pictures of progress so far, which I'll update as I go along
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