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  1. I'm told there are boxes of these lying on shelves the length and breadth of workbenches, so no better time to do this. I built one of six a few months ago, all glued, and promptly lost the instructions, so to build the remaining 5 I did it based on experience. I've done a few things assways as I went along, but I think this is the most straightforward method. Also, I'm a brass novice, but I found that none of the scary items like resistance soldering gear and complex jigs are required for the job. A standard issue soldering iron, plumbers flux, and a roll of solder do perfectly fine, and I'd encourage anyone eager to try brass kits to give it a go on this one, as many of the joints and welds will be hidden under the tank. Only you'll know they are there Superglue can be used on this kit also, same process as below. And for folding things, always fold into the etch side. First things first, a clean bench, some choons on, and a drop of Modeller's Elbow. Oh and the main etch for the kit of course. Like airfix kits that get you to make up the awkward stuff first, and then do the easy bits, that's how this should be approached. Remove the buffer beam pieces (2) and fold up the top flange only. The lower etch is decorative only. Next remove the components for the battery box housing. The outer doors have to be folded 45 degrees like so . There are 2 webbed pieces that fit into that outer door, and the main box folds up like so. The enclosure is the same size as the completed door cover, so a bit of tweaking is required to get the door cover to fit over and align with the holes. (There are 6 different versions of this box on the wagons I'm doing, a wee bit confusing!) Remove the release wheel supports. Note that they are handed right and left to match on either side of the wagon, and bend up the top piece. There are four coupling hooks. Remove and just tidy up the hook end, don't worry about extras at the rear. Pro-tip here My brother in-law is a cattle farmer who gave me a present of this veterinary clamp, a vet left after her. I'd recommend getting one, preferrably a new one via an online shop Anyway, clamp two of the hooks together, give it a light coating of flux... and with a small bit of solder on the tip of the iron, just run it over the surface. Repeat with the other two hooks. The buffers next - take the four out and either by rubbing on a bit of wet and dry sandpaper or a file, remove the seam lines on the outside of the plate and any large lumps or bumps. Check by passing them through the bufferbeam for a not too tight, not too loose fit. Remove the vacuum release levers and trim off the excess. There are two little solebar wheels and four larger release wheels needed. Find the appropriate brass rod and do like this. Clip off the excess..and a tiny bit of flux on the centre. Hold the wheel in place with a tweezers also, otherwise the solder on the tip will suck it up. Turn the rod around and repeat. Then cut in half for the smaller wheels. For the larger ones, only attach one wheel until it's fitted to the wagon. Remove the main panel from the etch, and using a file, file back the areas shown in red by about 0.5mm. This is so that the solebars don't foul the buffer beam which would result in the buffers pointing down at the track. Now, let's get it looking like a wagon now Make sure you have it the right way up - the piece with the SSM copyright text should be facing up, and bend up the bufferbeams. Part II Shortly.
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