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MM 201 Class Fitting Drivers in cabs.

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Fowler4f

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hi the shell comes off these quite easily.  no screws and as far as i am aware no clips. 

 

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its similar to the plough van process so grab a leap card and work it in around the edges between the shell and chassis ,the shell should gently wiggle off. the cabs stay attached to the body then and i have not removed those so i cannot help further, that should explain the hard part though.

when holding the chassis do not hold onto any of the plastic boxes as they clip on and off quite easily, to get the leverage you need hold onto the metal box on the chassis, this is part of the casting and rock solid.

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2 hours ago, Sean said:

hi the shell comes off these quite easily.  no screws and as far as i am aware no clips. 

 

IMG20220324010959_01.jpg

its similar to the plough van process so grab a leap card and work it in around the edges between the shell and chassis ,the shell should gently wiggle off. the cabs stay attached to the body then and i have not removed those so i cannot help further, that should explain the hard part though.

when holding the chassis do not hold onto any of the plastic boxes as they clip on and off quite easily, to get the leverage you need hold onto the metal box on the chassis, this is part of the casting and rock solid.

Thanks Sean, that’s most helpful.

Just need advice on cab removal ?

Edited by Fowler4f
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The cab section is akward to remove.Carefully use a small flat screwdriver or something similar with thin plastic. The area you are looking for is the drivers side windows.You will have to try and stick the flat screwdriver down between the loco body and cab section.I think there is some tabs there,It's a long time since I did it so take your time.Both sides have to be prised up.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Managed to remove Cab interior, the glazing remains attached to the body, the Driver needed some serious amputations to get him to fit also had to remove the seat armrests.  Just need to get it back in place. 🤞The trick in replacing cab interior is to slide the front under the clear plastic and then slip the back panel into place over the light fitting inside the two roof arches.

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Edited by Fowler4f
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229 is a later model than 203. The inside of cab body has 2 side grooves that the back of cab fits in above rear of cab light.

The side lugs on cab floor by each seat need to be freed upwards from side glazing, then cab back will slide out. The underneath of the cab has a black tape attached to prevent light bleed.

To replace cab push cab into place, but keeping the 2 floor lugs above the glazing until you can slide the cab back wall into the side grooves. Then push lugs into place in glazing. 

I took the opportunity to weather the frames and roof as nice day here in Wimbledon.

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Edited by Fowler4f
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233 different cab removal, no lugs on cab floor, the cab is held in by the sides of the driving desk (the L shaped piece @90° to to horizontal side piece) that clip on to front of cab windows.
The clear plastic pieces that form the marker/tail lights came away, when I put them back in place both had a touch of plastic weld to keep them in situ.

I had to tape down the cab lights as they were loose.

233 was weathered as well. The poor fella of a driver lost his arm in surgery !

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Edited by Fowler4f
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