Jump to content
murrayec

Walker Diesel Class F - ECMbuild in 4mm for OOn3

Rate this topic

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Well still waiting for the bogie parts, but in the mean time I got the second bonnet up and running and also started on some of the small detail bits

5a750879c03cd_WD-33IMAG3599.jpg.4d4a6c20083690808adf129105d4a518.jpg

5a750875937f6_WD-30IMAG3591.jpg.738e7bbe21bd5abeef0151db6b81a15f.jpg

5a750876ea157_WD-31IMAG3594.jpg.f8615443238731cae3df7b55662cf251.jpg

Exhaust pipe components- aluminium tube with soldered brass mounting brackets

5a7508785d03d_WD-32IMAG3592.jpg.868b6900e7145c98e177e93f728ee4e6.jpg

A bit of moulding done to create the bonnet headlamp bodies- the trusty Model T van was used, a nice set of lamps on the front, did not want to wreck the part so I did a mould around the lights still on the radiator grill! it worked

5a75087bbe055_WD-34IMAG3595.jpg.4ebbdb3600f63720e186ad57dd1f1af4.jpg

two lamp bodies drilled to take little LEDs

5a75087ce149a_WD-36IMAG3658.jpg.1d8ce67fa966fa80702c9583db92b30c.jpg

Ladders, other exhaust n brackets, the horns, and the side bonnet radiator water filler caps- all brass

5a75087f18cf8_WD-37IMAG3596.jpg.b1a90d7a6a3c946f7e5082aa5c1687bb.jpg

I'm thinking of making up my own motor chassis for this project, but unfortunately I cannot show a sketch, today my workshop PC decided to melt one of its drives and the walker directory was in that sector, fortunately I could back up most of the drive and thankfully I had done a system backup last month, unfortunately the edit to the drawing with the chassis design was only last week and it did not get saved in that backup, and again- fortunately Windows has a secret directory that backups get saved, even incremental! I got almost all the data back from here and it needs a few hours drawing and I'm back to last weeks version...... Backups guys, is very important

anyway, brass etched bogie with Mashima motor on top n pulley drive all hung off a PCB chassis plate, I've setup a drawing of the bogie frames to make a mould, this includes connection rods & crank counter weights to be etched in brass- i'll make contact again on supply of these parts and then make a decision.....

Eoin

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you thought I'd forgotten the Walker!

No word back from the supplier on bogie parts since March?? so I decided to fabricate my own- based on the rubber band drive idea I'm working on for the N 141.....

The drawing was completed for the bogie frames, bogie bolsters, motor system, fuel tanks, bogie sides, cranks, and crank counter weights- all to be cnc cut from .3mm NS sheet;-

1130903002_WD-38IMAG4119.jpg.413263fad2075e2915ff91a9bccc7c76.jpg

A close up of the parts, all the cutting worked out fine with a 1mm end mill and the half cut done with an 45deg engraving tool for the fold lines;-762512870_WD-39IMAG4120.jpg.3698b7e1e6cdd8fc36993acce4318c72.jpg

The chassis plate was cut out of .7mm PCB board with engraved lines to position the fuel tanks and bogie bolsters when soldering on, one of those D shapes will be pressed out for the motor pulley drive to go through to drive the bogie ;-

736428703_WD-40IMAG4122.jpg.b4a19233f61b3b9206d540c8c7484f3a.jpg

All the parts removed from the sheet and on the right is the motor bogie frame cleaned up and about to be folded, soldered and wheeled- though need to make a few long axles as we have outside cranks. There are 110 parts to make up the wheeled motor bogie with side-frame details, I have only cut out parts for one set of side-frames, if all goes together OK! I will be making moulds from these for casting white metal sides;-

1306194689_WD-41IMAG4123.jpg.b50e53fc8c01c99150466d6aed9f0e06.jpg

So a bit of processing over the week end........

Eoin

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Eoin

There is a good reason why you haven't heard back from Malcolm Savage, he is no long with us he died about three or four months ago I think.

The good news is that some one is thinking about taking over his range, so hopefully it won't be too long before his bits become available again.

 

Regards

Colin

I must get on with my own Class F loco model at some point.

 

Edited by Colin R

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Colin R

That's sad to hear,

I thought something was wrong all right, I got no reply from my follow-up emails... so left him alone.

Eoin

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Colin R said:

Hi Eoin

There is a good reason why you haven't heard back from Malcolm Savage, he is no long with us he died about three or four months ago I think.

The good news is that some one is thinking about taking over his range, so hopefully it won't be too long before his bits become available again.

 

Regards

Colin

I must get on with my own Class F loco model at some point.

 

JASUS.........

  • Like 2
  • Funny 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been working on the bogoies over the last few days, the cnc half cut folding lines in the parts were not deep enough and this caused a few problems folding and getting things straight! Here are a few photos of progress;-

Axles and drive shaft were cut and sized from 1.5mm piano wire, and a pair of chassis jigs were made to get the crank weights and rods to line up.1593961763_WD-42IMAG4124.jpg.188d858fe2fb74ef1c4f2c01f3466759.jpg

Folding, jigging, and soldering up both bogie frames required some fettling as mentioned above, but eventually they came together.

2887500_WD-43IMAG4128.jpg.598eb933031d661cda64c03df930d95f.jpg

1858314749_WD-44IMAG4129.jpg.a223469f4ea8665941ddaff6ec7b8175.jpg

This is the motor bogie with it's running parts, the axles are sleeved with brass tube to bring them up to 2mm dia for the Tenshodo gear set.

66091067_WD-45IMAG4131.jpg.49304c2538bc03c8644ddfa3b09e32ba.jpg

and this is the first test assembly, everything worked out OK, except for the gear meshing- it's just a tad loose and will need a bit of adjustment, I reckon it will run but there is a chance the plastic gears could be stripped so I will de-solder the drive shaft bearings and adjust the holes to get it just right. It's a nice little unit and I'm looking forward to giving it a test run.....

1070106806_WD-46IMAG4135.jpg.2ea5f7fbeab7f74cd195ea5c3481cf49.jpg

1102241413_WD-46IMAG4136.jpg.4cfedebb0a9aec9c0a525acbbaba77b6.jpg

871991589_WD-47IMAG4137.jpg.84408c0f6374661d5d8240e8ff499b6b.jpg

1372541858_WD-48IMAG4138.jpg.cdffd470a9deef3b22b3643eef40a4c0.jpg

Eoin

 

  • Like 3
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, murrayec said:

so I will de-solder the drive shaft bearings and adjust the holes to get it just right

Eoin,

 

Consider changing to larger gears on the axles?  Problem I had with the 495 was the kit came with a 23 tooth gear rather than the 20 tooth needed - difference in diameter was c. 1 mm but too large to fit the gearbox I had.   

Might be enough to pick up the slack - re-cutting the chassis and moving the bearings up will be pain!!

 

Ken

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, murrayec said:

I have been working on the bogoies over the last few days, the cnc half cut folding lines in the parts were not deep enough and this caused a few problems folding and getting things straight! Here are a few photos of progress;-

Axles and drive shaft were cut and sized from 1.5mm piano wire, and a pair of chassis jigs were made to get the crank weights and rods to line up.1593961763_WD-42IMAG4124.jpg.188d858fe2fb74ef1c4f2c01f3466759.jpg

Folding, jigging, and soldering up both bogie frames required some fettling as mentioned above, but eventually they came together.

2887500_WD-43IMAG4128.jpg.598eb933031d661cda64c03df930d95f.jpg

1858314749_WD-44IMAG4129.jpg.a223469f4ea8665941ddaff6ec7b8175.jpg

This is the motor bogie with it's running parts, the axles are sleeved with brass tube to bring them up to 2mm dia for the Tenshodo gear set.

66091067_WD-45IMAG4131.jpg.49304c2538bc03c8644ddfa3b09e32ba.jpg

and this is the first test assembly, everything worked out OK, except for the gear meshing- it's just a tad loose and will need a bit of adjustment, I reckon it will run but there is a chance the plastic gears could be stripped so I will de-solder the drive shaft bearings and adjust the holes to get it just right. It's a nice little unit and I'm looking forward to giving it a test run.....

1070106806_WD-46IMAG4135.jpg.2ea5f7fbeab7f74cd195ea5c3481cf49.jpg

1102241413_WD-46IMAG4136.jpg.4cfedebb0a9aec9c0a525acbbaba77b6.jpg

871991589_WD-47IMAG4137.jpg.84408c0f6374661d5d8240e8ff499b6b.jpg

1372541858_WD-48IMAG4138.jpg.cdffd470a9deef3b22b3643eef40a4c0.jpg

Eoin

 

Branchlines produced a 17:1 Miniature gearbox kit with 1.5mm input & 2mm output shaft which may be an option of you cannot get the gear set to work.

The business no longer has an active web presence but continues to trade through the magazines and at UK exhibitions.

PO Box 4293,  Westbury, Wiltshire  BA13 9AA

Telephone: 01373 822231

The Branchlines gear box is fully enclosed moulded in nylon with brass worm and nylon gear wheel, so meshing should not be an issue.

I bought a pair several years ago to re-build the chassis on a County Donegal railcar

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I built one of the bogie frame sides as a test of the cut-out parts, some mods will be required as things did not work out as expected from the drawing, mainly allowing tolerance for the fold lines- the drawing will be adjusted!

This is the main frame, horn blocks, spring hanger brackets and sand box folded up ready for soldering.

919310226_WD-49IMAG4140.jpg.8b841613e44761211cb4089d98b0063d.jpg

All soldered, the hornblocks have worked out a bit fat, because of the reverse fold line, I calculated the tolerance for the bend the wrong way round! The sand box has a little 4mm scale steel valve rivet soldered in for the cap, and the leaf springs cleaned up ready for soldering.

1275014063_WD-50IMAG4141.jpg.f6071b094d922901c40da07122491e24.jpg

Leaf springs soldered on, a 1mm brass tube is soldered to the end of the springs to create the bracket connection to the hanger rods, these rods are removable to install the lower coil springs- thats next...

497463904_WD-51IMAG4145.jpg.2dc6843707b4d6a20fdd666437a6ec0a.jpg

2107020671_WD-52IMAG4146.jpg.521b91b9e0e41fdff6f6533cb3b6d5a1.jpg

One can see the hornblocks protrude out beyond the springs and the lower bracket, they should be flush with the spring! I will complete out the other side and assemble the frames on the bogie and see how these work out, it will push out the crank weights n rods a little bit but it may not be a problem with the overall appearance.

Eoin

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Springs On!

Made up little .4mm NS coil springs for the suspension on the bogie sides. Lying a bit sideways at the moment!1292634542_WD-53IMAG4153.jpg.de16c792646460fdf01191142a861486.jpg

These are the components for the bogie front with the guard iron brackets and chain hooks. 1726283332_WD-54IMAG4147.jpg.274639c1d2fd0f832a7fa24809430cfd.jpg

Fitted up and ready for soldering, three .4mm NS wire bars will be soldered across the brackets.17999432_WD-55IMAG4148.jpg.3e1458c5a35a7d36ac34db02fc089a63.jpg

and now that a set of sides are complete it's time to test fit to the bogie??2092602771_WD-56IMAG4157.jpg.421b319111eea098843d75755edf5cc1.jpg

1192046767_WD-57IMAG4154.jpg.3e5ddc5feb4baf9bb511b6bd9375242a.jpg

301415883_WD-58IMAG4155.jpg.9a61aad30eb66d605936912f7ff5d440.jpg

As suspected earlier, the hornblocks stick out further than intended and the pre-cut axles stick out only a smidge- not enough to get the crank weights on, the weights are .6mm laminates which means the axles need another 1.2mm. New axles will have to be cut, or, but its time to decide to proceed on this way or go back to cutting revised parts. There are other other issues that new cut parts would resolve...

It's a cute little mechanism though and loads of fun doing!

Eoin

  • Like 4
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Walker chassis bits.

Some of the underframe parts were cleaned up and prepared for soldering- two diesel tanks and one set of bogie bolsters.1738955483_WD-59IMAG4179.jpg.c84685f097cf093ce3a69f4a99d6a265.jpg

This is the holding set-up for soldering the bolster parts together, there is a 1.5mm hole through the base parts, a 1.5mm aluminium rod is inserted to keep alignment and the clamp fingers hold it all together- leaving the hands free to do the soldering.1348141243_WD-60IMAG4180.jpg.415fdb01ca687c76a6caab9f5476adfd.jpg  

The motor bogie drive shaft bearings were adjusted to improve the gear meshing to the axles, this was done by broaching out the holes after the bearings were removed, it needed about .3mm adjustment and the bearings were soldered back in- good mesh now. A top-hat axle bearing is soldered on the top of the bogie for pivot fixing to the chassis plate, the motor will hold the bogie in place?

1539131899_WD-61IMAG4182.jpg.b113f9dcb04a1ce1daa1a052e849eba6.jpg

Underframe parts cleaned up and sat on chassis plate, the cut lines provide positioning and the parts will be eventually soldered on.1451540613_WD-62IMAG4185.jpg.1ea8659b3136b18cda5cf450f0ad4cc8.jpg

The chassis plate and bogies assembled and motor installed1358167883_WD-63IMAG4186.jpg.2773791b20df687106dca840fefcebc2.jpg

The motor bogie pivots nicely in place and the motor holds it together as expected! with a bit of side tilt n all. You probably noticed the chassis plate is up-side-down!

1311040979_WD-64IMAG4188.jpg.baabc63172bb3baaa0e679aae2a54a9a.jpg

127317512_WD-65IMAG4189.jpg.825239edabf08ffc53698060f462b3b3.jpg

A test run will be next on the chassis, but I have to hold off as the axle gears have to be glued on and I'm not at the final axle length stage- I've made some mods to the bogie side frames so new parts need to be cut first.

Eoin

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know a man whom will be delighted to see this, I promised to post these up when we last meet at the Stillorgan Show!

After several attempts on getting the bogie side moulds to work it was eventually successfully, the patterns were to complex for gravity feed white metal so I had to fill in around some of the pattern detail with epoxy and drill several vent holes in the final mound and out these popped;-

1621351529_WD-6620191009_115624.jpg.4f4aa7e9832f72b052018f71bbea79cf.jpg

Drilled the axle holes and the lower suspension spring hanger holes on the finger plate.

859158696_WD-6720191009_132904.jpg.2e3cbb43d2f08e320affc10cc4af9d29.jpg

Test fitting the lower coil springs n hangers.

518594577_WD-6820191009_132915.jpg.c58e3775432346d47400f4446dd132e6.jpg

and popped onto the axles to see how it looks.

1041749158_WD-6920191009_133048.jpg.c59930273bfb58e66666b37b5f43fbf3.jpg

Deadly!

Another 3 sides to go and I think its fitting time and can eventually bolt the chassis together and give it a test run - fingers n toes crossed!!

Eoin

 

  • Like 7
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Walker Diesel Loco build got a bit of attention over the last month or so, after making further mods to the bogie sides the extended axles were cut n sized and all the gear was set up to build the bogies;-

103073383_WD-6920191009_133048.jpg.24f06eecc2490a15504318041302ab8a.jpg

499961590_WD-7020191018_222147.jpg.5d7a974327a7a4e6ec799577c4213957.jpg

The gears were glued in with Loctite, small brass sleeves also around the axles on the inside of the bogie to hold the wheels on centre and stop them shorting on the bogie frames.

715508081_WD-7120200126_095059.jpg.b75ee0598a6552e3884508432ca14ea1.jpg

I decided to glue the sides and stretchers to the bogies with epoxy, it was a bit problematic getting the soldering iron into the space between the wheels and the sides, also it would be easier to dismantle if required- so epoxy takes time and that means a jig to hold every thing in place for the glue to set. MDF, styrene card and a screw clamp- sit the bogie in the space in the middle and screw down to hold.

1079146902_WD-7220200129_123221.jpg.d42c5ba651b0526910498315fbb7b66f.jpg

I first used .7mm steel rivets to join the cranks to the connecting rods, soldered at the rear with a bit of tracing paper between so the cranks would not get stuck also.

1723163592_WD-7320200130_103334.jpg.3f90c49f1c4baa3c66d4543d6bf26941.jpg

This proved problematic when fitting the crank assembly to the axles, there was a slight misalignment with the centres of the rods and after several attempts of de-soldering and making adjustments I changed tack and settled for 14BA screws n nuts to fix the rods to the cranks, which made the job a lot easier to get them adjusted. Only drawback is we now have nuts to hold the rods which on final fitting will be filed down after Loctiting.

1343501720_WD-7420200216_132624.jpg.4aff2934f55047ee03352e1b7a512823.jpg

The body was attacked next with the radiator filler caps being soldered on the bonnets, these are small brass turnings from the lathe.

2096802932_WD-7520200217_180707.jpg.6afcfc3ed9b95e6b77e6de27fa00c3db.jpg

Then the bonnets & cab were soldered to the running plate and cleaned up for a test fitting to the chassis. I couldn't resist sitting the assembly on the chassis and taking a first look at the loco with it's wheels on.

556822459_WD-7720200217_233132.jpg.b24fdf4933b868ef03cb428ab1d4a41c.jpg

1501421613_WD-7820200217_233118.jpg.3ce283a9bce25bd7e1e4602bf3f2b94a.jpg

580989652_WD-7920200217_233142.jpg.03ab92d9ea16fd88c853b1b97da3866f.jpg

Very close to painting stage, just have to put the under-frame parts on the chassis, set-up and check the electrical pick-ups which will be installed after painting.

Eoin

Edited by murrayec
  • Like 5
  • WOW! 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantastic work, Eoin... I do love those wee F Class locos. It's a pity none survived.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, murrayec said:

The Walker Diesel Loco build got a bit of attention over the last month or so, after making further mods to the bogie sides the extended axles were cut n sized and all the gear was set up to build the bogies;-

103073383_WD-6920191009_133048.jpg.24f06eecc2490a15504318041302ab8a.jpg

499961590_WD-7020191018_222147.jpg.5d7a974327a7a4e6ec799577c4213957.jpg

The gears were glued in with Loctite, small brass sleeves also around the axles on the inside of the bogie to hold the wheels on centre and stop them shorting on the bogie frames.

715508081_WD-7120200126_095059.jpg.b75ee0598a6552e3884508432ca14ea1.jpg

I decided to glue the sides and stretchers to the bogies with epoxy, it was a bit problematic getting the soldering iron into the space between the wheels and the sides, also it would be easier to dismantle if required- so epoxy takes time and that means a jig to hold every thing in place for the glue to set. MDF, styrene card and a screw clamp- sit the bogie in the space in the middle and screw down to hold.

1079146902_WD-7220200129_123221.jpg.d42c5ba651b0526910498315fbb7b66f.jpg

I first used .7mm steel rivets to join the cranks to the connecting rods, soldered at the rear with a bit of tracing paper between so the cranks would not get stuck also.

1723163592_WD-7320200130_103334.jpg.3f90c49f1c4baa3c66d4543d6bf26941.jpg

This proved problematic when fitting the crank assembly to the axles, there was a slight misalignment with the centres of the rods and after several attempts of de-soldering and making adjustments I changed tack and settled for 14BA screws n nuts to fix the rods to the cranks, which made the job a lot easier to get them adjusted. Only drawback is we now have nuts to hold the rods which on final fitting will be filed down after Loctiting.

1343501720_WD-7420200216_132624.jpg.4aff2934f55047ee03352e1b7a512823.jpg

The body was attacked next with the radiator filler caps being soldered on the bonnets, these are small brass turnings from the lathe.

2096802932_WD-7520200217_180707.jpg.6afcfc3ed9b95e6b77e6de27fa00c3db.jpg

Then the bonnets & cab were soldered to the running plate and cleaned up for a test fitting to the chassis. I couldn't resist sitting the assembly on the chassis and taking a first look at the loco with it's wheels on.

556822459_WD-7720200217_233132.jpg.b24fdf4933b868ef03cb428ab1d4a41c.jpg

1501421613_WD-7820200217_233118.jpg.3ce283a9bce25bd7e1e4602bf3f2b94a.jpg

580989652_WD-7920200217_233142.jpg.03ab92d9ea16fd88c853b1b97da3866f.jpg

Very close to painting stage, just have to put the under-frame parts on the chassis, set-up and check the electrical pick-ups which will be installed after painting.

Eoin

Wowwww!!!!!

  • Like 2
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great model. When it comes to modelling, unfortunately for me, I've two left hands [for left handed people, the equivalent is like having two right hands]. This thread is similar to watching 'How Things Are Made'. It's great to see a model right from development stage through to the finish. When's the next episode?

I wonder would there be much of a market for models of narrow gauge railways in 00?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, connollystn said:

Great model. When it comes to modelling, unfortunately for me, I've two left hands [for left handed people, the equivalent is like having two right hands]. This thread is similar to watching 'How Things Are Made'. It's great to see a model right from development stage through to the finish. When's the next episode?

I wonder would there be much of a market for models of narrow gauge railways in 00?

Maybe 15 years ago, most of the Irish models on sale now, both in kit and (especially) RTR form, would have been financially viable for a manufacturer. Now is the golden age of Murphy Models, IRM, Provincial, SSM, 00 Works, Silverfox, all according to taste, and others.

I believe that the day may come (but not yet) when n-g stuff might be viable. Look at the 009 scene. In the 1980s when I started 009, you could only get highly expensice Austrian, Swiss or German stuff RTR. Anything British or Irish meant either scratchbuilding, or very crude "British" outline kits. Now we have absolutely superb RTR stuss.

I suspect that a generic RTR van, as seen on the CDR, West Clare and so on, a T & D cattle truck, a Donegal / West Clare Walker railcar and perhaps a Donegal or Leitrim coach or two might be a start. In locos, a Dingle tank or a Donegal class 5 would be probably the most viable.

I'd love to see it - though if it ever comes about, I suspect it's years ahead.

A few years ago, even current Irish stuff was all confined to the 1970-present period. Now we are seeing 121s, "A"s, kits of A, B101, B141 and so on, plus RTR steam with Roderick's excellent U, UG and J15s. We now have Leslie's great range of wagon kits, probably undreamable within the last fifteen years.

Here's hoping.

To all Irish manufacturers, kit and RTR alike: congratulations, thank you and keep it up!

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Certainly good times for Irish modellers. On this trajectory there’ll be an RTR Dalkey atmospheric train in 10 years !

  • Like 2
  • Funny 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantastic bit of modelling. For some reason, whenever I see brass, my brain thinks O gauge or bigger. It's only in the shots of you holding a part that I can really appreciate the scale.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for all the great comments.

Fixing of body to chassis was worked out, I settled on a brass tab at one end and a M2 counter-sunk screw at the other with the nut soldered onto the body. Everything is so tight for space the screw has to be installed in the chassis plate before the bogie is bolted to the plate!!

436307465_WD-8020200218_105541.jpg.be605023390be30acca1c319b663c007.jpg

Jigging up to solder the fuel tanks and bolsters to the chassis plate.

1132949185_WD-8120200218_121501.jpg.f616bebc0ec9cf410c246a4cfc9ee82b.jpg

Done.

1186843160_WD-8220200218_123502.jpg.162444b0aa48b5db3f43712365035386.jpg

Front NS ladders being soldered up, which will be soldered to the buffer beam- if one can call it that?

471433276_WD-8320200218_133916.jpg.b700451757e17f0279e5638a975e1a7a.jpg

Vac pipes soldered up using .5mm brass wire, .8mm brass tube bits, and guitar string.

1930820411_WD-8420200219_200111.jpg.973ba6116273bb29f0866f8e85d1f170.jpg

Well then- except for the coupler system, it's ready for painting. So I joy-rigged the after painting parts- headlamp, exhaust, horn, vac pipe, handrails and the Walker Brothers front plate to take a few naked photos.

775392231_WD-8520200219_214358.jpg.2dc2658ee2fb8a9def053ad69da595c0.jpg

746039359_WD-8620200219_214308.jpg.029e96e498cf51f389efda78fbc261c1.jpg

1668326406_WD-8820200219_214244.jpg.9fe40a64af92eb66f90afba5fa6408c5.jpg

211424587_WD-8720200219_214459.jpg.780e7718bce5762669f10cae85c8ab7d.jpg

Eoin

  • Like 3
  • WOW! 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are in to OO scale Irish 3ft or better known as 00n3, then there is a growing number of kits, both in brass and 3D print.

The biggest problem is finding a RTR chassis for the locos, however there are a few TT gauge chassis about on eBay and other such places, but most of the kits come with the chassis frames, so you just have to find the wheels, bearings, motor and gearbox to complete.

Worsley works are more scratch aids than full kits.

Branchlines do a number of Irish/IOM loco kits.

Narrow Planet does a couple of 3d Print bodies for 009 but they can be put on a 12mm gauge chassis if you fancy building one.

If you look on the Shapeways website, there are now a few more Irish kits for 00n3, but once again you still need a chassis.

I should also mention Roxey Mouldings for mainly their IOM stock but these kits come with everything, wheels, bearing’s etc.

On another thread I am trying to find some more details about the Cork and Muskerry railway stock, there is a lot more mystery about this one railway than all the others put together.

I should also mention that DJH do a Breton Tank in HOm, but I am not sure how much it is or if it is still available.

Also there are a few British Industrial 3ft gauge locos about to come on the market, they will be 3D print so will require a chassis to fit.

I should also mention Alphagraphix’s with there card kits for OOn3.

I think that just about covers what is available, but once a number of working chassis become available, I would like to think some of you guys will be building Irish based 3ft narrow gauge layouts.

 

Colin R    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use