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murrayec

Meadb Class 800 Gauge O

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Another Class 800, this time it's 'Meadb' is in the workshop for completion- valve gear, break gear, wheel weights, some cab detail, painting & lining.

As it came;-

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So I set about stripping down the chassis and came across a number of issues;- only two of the axle bearings were soldered into the chassis, the others had been super-glued in but all have come free to rotate with the axles- see photo of bogie above, their all loose to. The plunger type electrical pick-up system was very poor, some of the plungers were frozen in their housings and did not make contact all of the time. The chassis required a few more frame spacers- it was a bit bendy!

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So with a plan of action the frame spacers were made up from .5mm brass sheet in the 'L' shape for stiffness, a pcb copper clad pick-up board was cnc'd out- as I'm going with wiper pick-ups off this board- no stinking plungers! Holes drilled, M2 nuts soldered to the new spacers and the plate fixed with M2 bolts- this holds the frame spacers in when soldering them in the chassis.

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Spacers in, time to solder the axle bearings in. The coupling rods were cleaned up, to be used with the axle jigs to centre the bearings when soldering them in. I do this on a glass sheet with two rulers on edge to support the chassis by the axle jigs.

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Done.

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The cylinders were cleaned up after removing the old crosshead guide bars, the valve front end was drilled to take the valve rod housing that sticks out the front- done with 1mm dia brass wire locctite'd in. The valve back-end guides were cnc'd from .5mm brass sheet and folded up for soldering on. I came up with a lolly pop stick trick to hold these parts in position for soldering- a cross shape with a spigot that seats into the valve end and the parts clipped on?1195679686_SH800-18IMAG5265.jpg.59c04cd7924c545554ff4b624397cf39.jpg

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Worked a treat!

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The remainder of the valve gear was cleaned up and I noticed we're missing some parts- the Valve Rods and the Anchor Links! The link will be cnc cut from NS sheet with other parts later, but the valve rod requires a bit of machining- 2mm square bar was rounded up on the lathe with a file leaving a 3mm long square at the end, then cross drilled for a rivet, then .5mm slotted to create a clevis, after a bit of filing.

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I made these a bit fat as the holes in the valve housing are large.

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Wheels have been cleaned up and the wheel weights in .5mm brass being epoxied on.

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Eoin

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by murrayec
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Thanks all for the great comments above.

I intend to paint the chassis, wheels and body at the same time, so next up was to decide on the works to the body, after a good inspection I decided that some soldering and soldering clean-up was required and decided to add a little detail here and there so out to the sand blaster.

All cleaned up.

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The cab will be getting a backhead but there is a gaping hole in here, the footplate is a bit wonky to, and a lot of residue solder everywhere- so another blast in this area is required, and I came up with an idea to fill the hole and fix the footplate- more on that later!

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After doing that I started on detailing the front end by drilling out the footplate and the smokebox door to take brass wire handrails, footplate lamps and some rivet detailing.

Smokebox door rails and footplate steps handrails installed with .7mm brass wire.

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Smokebox door rivets going on with the help of the Nutter.

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And as one can see in the above photo the Smokebox door hinge is non existent! so came up with an idea for that using .5mm brass wire, two Gauge 00 handrail knobs and tiny brass tube strap end details to line up with the door straps. The NS frame was drilled for the knobs, these will have to be glued on as the door is resin cast and wont take soldering heat.

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Vac pipe parts for soldering up, done with brass wire, brass tubes and guitar strings.

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A bit of soldering and gluing to do......

Eoin

 

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The replacement valve parts and other nickel silver parts were cut out and cleaned up.

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Break shoes cut from Tufnol and been prepared here to slit the backs and mount them on their hangers.

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Shoes mounted on hangers with brass pins yet to be trimmed and glued, break rods and other break parts prepared for assembly.

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Nice set of cnc engraved engine plates and those little bit to the left are the break hanger spigots which will be soldered onto the chassis to hold the break gear.

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Breaks on, this assembly is removable by springing the break hangers off the support spigots and it comes away in one piece. Electrical pick-ups installed and wiring just completed.

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A quick test on the rolling road to see if the breaks need adjusting and check for electrical shorts- all fine.

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Next was to start on setting up the valve gear, the motion brackets to hold the crosshead slide bar were folded up and soldered.

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Then the crosshead slide H bar is made up of 3 .5mm NS parts, jigged and soldered.

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Then the slide bar brackets are soldered onto the chassis, quite a bit of fettling to get the bracket to hold the slidebar horizontal.

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The LNER valve kit crossheads needed some mods- the drop link was shortened and drilled for riveting the Anchor Link to, and the slides on the heads was modified to take the NS 800 type slide covers.

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When the crossheads were done and the 800 cover soldered on all was offered up to the cylinder, fettled & fitted. The slide bar is filed down at one end and fitted into a hole in the cylinder, this part will be fitted after the painting is done.

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Next was the Expansion Link, I was not happy using the LNER open type link as the 800 has a solid link and the LNER just doesn't look right, also I've cut parts for working oiler gear which needs a pivot hole right where there is an opening in the LNER one. So NS .5mm laminated parts were used to do this.

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I went with solder paste for this one as the parts are so small it's hard to use standard wire solder without flooding the parts and having a whole lot of cleaning up afterwards.

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Pasted, clamped, soldered, and minimal clean up.

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Link completed except for opening up the holes. Thats one of the discarded LNER Expansion Links to the left.

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Then the Eccentric Rods, they needed a flute cut down the middle, so they were mounted on an angle plate, viced up in the mill and a .5mm flute cut.

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That looks a lot better, better scale!

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Eoin

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Superb work Eoin.

I am particuarly impressed with the expasion link construction as I konw how difficult it is to solder up small parts.

Excellent build & looking forward to seeing more.

Ken

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On the 800, this is the mod I make to the LNER crosshead and slide bar, its a single H slide bar with a bolted clasp around the bar holding the crosshead on so I use a .5mm NS folded plate soldered onto the LNER bits after the head is filed down.

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The unit is clamped using the slide bar to set the gap, the slide bar is removed and the unit is soldered, being careful not to get solder in the slidy bit . The end of the slide bar has been filled down to fit into the cylinder backplate.

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.5mm NS 800 detail bits just about to be soldered onto the eccentric rod, this end will be screw fixed to the return crank with 12BA screw.

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All the valve gear is now riveted and ready for a test fit. The lifting arm has a 1.5mm steel rivet soldered onto it which fits into the radius rods lifting slot.

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.5mm NS 800 detail bits in the motion bracket, these fit onto brass bush crankpin bearings fitted into the motion bracket which are counter-sunk to take the 12BA screws.

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Fitting of the gear.....

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....and we've got problems! The anchor and drop links are fouling the cylinder backplate and jamming the gear, its not much- the thickness of a 14BA screw! In the photo below one can see the anchor link is disconnected from the crosshead to allow overlap otherwise the crosshead can not travel this far. New anchor links will have to be cut and made a bit shorter.

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Other than that link problem everything is working fine, the valve rod may need a bit of attention also, its a bit sloppy in its cylinder but not fouling, will decide on that when the gear is test run under power......

Eoin

 

 

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So on the Class 800, after sorting the valve link problems I returned to final body and chassis work;-

Fixing up the gaping hole in the cab and installing a not so prototypical backhead (it's what the client gave me and he's happy to use it!), the brass cover piece was folded up and made to fit.

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I installed a BA screw in the backhead so that its bolted in and can be changed in the future.

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The step in the floor is required to clear the wheels and to allow the chassis to be fitted in.

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Next is the steam dome- its missing it's edge for about 70% and just would not look right! I cut a hole in a piece of .5mm styrene card to the diameter of the flange and stuck it on around the dome to fill the recess with plastic filler. The dome seems to be part plastic and lead so decided to keep the soldering iron away from it.

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Filled ready for painting the undercoat then I will clean it up.

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Next the oil pump boxes on the running boards- I'm doing the drive rods from the valve gear for these and as the came they are in the wrong position- to far back and to far in from the edge so.....

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....pop them off, filled the holes in the boxes with brass rod for drilling new 14BA taped holes.....

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.....soldered back on in the correct position with BA screw showing which will hold the little brass hand-wheels and drive gear in place.

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Detail bits are now glued onto boiler front with epoxy. The buffer shanks were de soldered for the painting process.

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Bogie truck is next, I made frame stretchers in .5mm brass for back and front of bogie with a little bit of rivet detail.

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After folding up the stretchers the bogie was jigged up to keep all straight n level in relation to the axles, the stretchers taped to a piece of mdf to hold in position while soldering.

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All soldered up.

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Then the tender chassis, one of the the middle axle bearing needed to be re fixed to the springing system, a short length of brass tube was used to slide over the spring and then soldered to the bearing without soldering it to the spring or chassis frame.

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Next installing the tender breaks.

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The breaks are done as per the loco and can be removed by springing off the spigots soldered into the chassis frames

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I decided to de-solder the tender WM spring n axle boxes, this will make the painting and lining process in this area far easier. The buffer shanks were also de-soldered for the painting process.

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Cleaning up.

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Done.

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Soldering up the vac pipes.

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Done, bent into shape and cleaned up.

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and we are now ready to start the painting process.....yippee

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Eoin

 

 

Edited by murrayec
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Sublime as ever from the forum's prima brass master. 🤙clap4.gif

bow.gif

Edited by Noel
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