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MikeO

N Gauge Card Rolling Stock

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HI LostCarPark

In N gauge card rolling stock is feasible but I am not aware of any where you can get an N Gauge kit which can be cut out and glueed together in the same way you do with Metacalf and other building kits.

You can get OO gauge and larger card kits and scale them down. Also you can get diagram books such as those sold by the IRRS and scale them down.

Wagons are usually fairly straight forward but coaches where windows need to be cut out to install glazing etc can be difficult, the small windows more so. Plenty of sharp blades, a good metal ruler and a fairly steady hand are required.

 

Card can be a little flat and can benefit from such of plastic strips or wire as appropriate.

Attached are a number of photos which hopefully illustrate the above comments

 

First is a Wagon purely made from card and is a scaled down Alphagraphix OO gauge kit

1020001963_1CIE12Tonvanside.thumb.jpg.67f7b4c78cbe4c866a0e0778c8267bb7.jpg

 

The second is a 6 wheel coach from Alphagraphix and scaled down

 

1327743584_2MGWR3rdclasssideAlphagraphics.jpg.297dd2f3556fc597838e90a7ea2f1772.jpg

 

The third is a wagon which started life a photograph and has been scaled and enhanced by vertical plastic strips

 

605512032_3Lyonsteawagonside.jpeg.64b7135c96f374f5a70724525b9f7199.jpeg

 

The fourth shows how I made the body of the container from card although again plastic strips were used this time on the roof. That to me was easier then trying to cut card to a consistent width and length

1024516391_4BelCardCont.thumb.jpg.00b73e5aab1d8474d34fae7663824453.jpg

The last shows how such models can look well at normal viewing distance despite their appearance close up. The first container is that in photo 4 while the second container has been enhanced with plastic strips around the edge.

977949099_5BelCardContfinal.thumb.jpg.184c0a0f15991b033bccd59e74c40917.jpg

With more care than in the first 3 photos card models can look very professional. But it does require a lot of patience and attention to detail.

Another way to use card is to glue the required parts on to an existing donor model. The C Class loco in photo 5 shows what can be achieved.

 

MikeO

Edited by MikeO
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Thanks for these. They look pretty good.

I've been impressed by the amount of detail card models can get with layers of card, so I'd like to see what can be achieved with rolling stock. However, at N-gauge a lot of flat printed detail will look pretty good. I'm working on a basic coach shell at the moment, and when I get the shape right I can work on skinning it.

I'd also like to see what can be with glass in windows.

Thanks for the ideas.

James

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This is very much a first draft:

IMG_20200223_010857_3.thumb.jpg.15e6ee9aab58b8defc82082b1713dacf.jpg

It's not attached to the bogies yet, and there's a bunch of areas I can see to improve, but it's a start.

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Nice piece of work. Always good to make a solid start and turn your ideas into 3D reality!  Looks a nice neat job.

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15 hours ago, LostCarPark said:

This is very much a first draft:

IMG_20200223_010857_3.thumb.jpg.15e6ee9aab58b8defc82082b1713dacf.jpg

It's not attached to the bogies yet, and there's a bunch of areas I can see to improve, but it's a start.

Did you do the artwork for it? Looks great! Huge potential there.

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Very good start. Nice clean and neat lines. is this the shell or have you added the skin?

I found that using a piece of round dowel rod  or round knife handle helps in curving the roof if it is made from card. Takes awhile though to get a good profile.

MikeO

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Thanks for the comments, everyone.

@jhb171achill: Yes I did the artwork.

@MikeO: That is the shell. This version is made as a box that folds up and the roof applies as a lid. Unfortunately, I found that resulted in a slight "twist" along the length of the coach. For the next version I'm going to assemble a box with stiffeners, then apply the sides as a skin, which hopefully will allow me to prevent twisting.

Good tip for curving the roof!

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An interesting construction method. I suspect it requires a lot of careful drawing and cutting. It might useful to apply strengtheners to your existing coach body at each end and/or along both sides or at specific intervals.

I use mounting board but a couple of pieces of 200gsm card laminated together and then glued to the ends and aside would also help. If using thinner card more pieces would be needed. Even if you do not keep this coach body you will get good experience. You might have to strengthen the roof also usually a second piece about 1mm smaller all round is sufficient.

 

MikeO

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If it’s of any use, I made some card models in my teens and I used matchsticks to strengthen and strsighten the corners inside.

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Thanks jhb that is a good tip about the match sticks. I find that straightening the corners and making it all square can be fiddly. they should help and also make a better fit for the roof.

MikeO

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The magnetic clamps look useful. I see the yellow ones are contained in the N gauge Pack of tools. Would they fit inside N gauge coaches.

I got some white magnetic clamps from York Models which are fine for larger N gauge buildings but are far too big for use in the coaches.

MikeO

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Not sure Mike - sorry! I use the yellow ones which are just right for 7mm. Square plastic rod from Evergreen or Plastruct can also help make a very good 90 degree corner.

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Some more Tips 1) if you want to weight them matchsticks is an excellent idea can even use them as bracing inside. 2) Old traction magnets make excellent clamps. 3) using word tools or similar you can create from drawings lines which are easier to print then glue to card. 4) riverter or punch hole tools make excellent starts for doing windows on coaches etc.

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Here are some photos of my second attempt at a CIE 57' wood bodied coach.

This time some shots of the construction.

First I built up the coach body. I also cut the windows out of the side panels, and glued perspex behind.

IMG_20200307_002823_9.thumb.jpg.288b235c59b544614ae5f6402a9d1f3b.jpg

Next i attached the sides.

IMG_20200307_004219_7.thumb.jpg.7de083416ad151110f4fe21208237e0f.jpg

Then the roof and ends.

IMG_20200307_010331_1.thumb.jpg.6bc00c005640c5ff6f5200844f93b8d6.jpg

IMG_20200307_010436_4.thumb.jpg.ada02392e9debe287569131577905856.jpg

Cutting out all the windows is an absolute pain, but it certainly produces a more convincing result.

Currently it's just resting on the bogies, so I'll have to figure out a way of attaching it before I can actually run it.

I would like to figure out a way of cutting things out more accurately. I feel that at the moment it still looks a little home made, but with a little more precision, a rake of them could really look quite good on a layout.

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Having seen your first attempt, I think they look good for N gauge.

A good way to build up an Irish “N” fleet!

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Posted (edited)

Great stuff, and what you have done is very creditable. One thing which really helps in using card is constant changing of knife blades - card blunts knives very quickly! This gives a much sharper cut: Alphagraphix recommend 3 new blades for a wagon kit build. 

Edited by Galteemore

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Posted (edited)

The coach looks good. For cutting thin card ie upto about 300gsm I use Scalpel blades with an appropriate handle. The blades are very sharp and need care when handling but when new make cutting windows etc much easier. For cutting mounting board etc I use a new blade in a rigid utility type knife. Those with snap off blades are too thin to make good cuts in mounting board. As with all cutting patience and plenty of practice are essential.

For attaching bogies I use two different methods Fleischmann track screws which are expensive and small brass screws about 8mm long a pack of about 10 cost around £2. I got mine in a local craft shop but it closed a few weeks ago.

Attached are a few photos showing each method. Using the brass screws is easiest as the head fits neatly into the hole in the bogie and is my preferred method.

The first photo shows the brass screw method. The second photo shows the screw which is a size 3 and sold as 3/8in long (8mm)

 

1461276111_1Brassscrewmethod.thumb.jpg.f4e0208796c6d870d38d4065a9ac15f2.jpg

 

1011356385_2Brassscrew.jpg.64bea1340acfae3ff59763ccc1db9f92.jpg

 

The third photos shows the Fleischmann screw method. These are very thin and require support to keep the  bogie in place. I use a small roundish piece of plastic or thick card (the white pieces below the screw head).

 

1411638311_3Flscrewmethod.thumb.jpg.ef05bcc71214b52d079c2ac8cffd702c.jpg 

 

To keep the bogie wheel from fouling the floor or chassis sides I use a small plastic washer. A piece of plastic card or paper card of the right thickness would also work. In photo 4 the plastic washer can be seen under the bogie.

 

384333555_4Plasticwasher.thumb.jpg.e3e596a0eabbb9271faa6a08442c68c7.jpg

 

Photo 5 shows the washer and photo 6 shows the box in came in. I got mine from Woodies in Dundalk. I think they cost around 2

2132417023_5Plasticwasher1.jpg.2a2a77246fce402a0bd73299095393be.jpg

 

2121684937_6Plasticwasherinfo.thumb.jpg.d5eecfdc8336e43ce241d4ae6309a800.jpg

 

MikeO

Edited by MikeO
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