John McGahern

RedRich,

I've been doing 21mm for a few years now and although the stores don't carry a check rail gauge (bizarre) but it's not absolutely essential. It sounds like a crude way of doing it but since it's the very last piece to go into a point I run a loco or a few wagons over the crossover after securing the check rail in place with very slow drying epoxy. This allows for any minor corrections of discrepancies to be taken care of. Technically the flange way at the crossing vee and the distance between the check rail and adjacent stock rail should be identical however I always go a little on the less tighter side with the check rail so there would definitely be no binding when the wheels pass through. I also use a single pair of wheels on an axle and place them on the track at the check rail that still isn't fully cured and gently move them perpendicular to the rails. I allow the flange (back side) of the wheel to just touch the check rail and then while rolling it back and forth check the opposite wheel to make sure it's not going to catch the crossing vee. This will allow enough play for the wheels to run freely with no binding but at the same time not too much that it will result in catching the crossing vee. Clear as mud? Actually, if you build the point well, all your rolling stock should roll right through without even needing check rails. In fact I've waited months sometimes before even installing them and have therefore come to the conclusion that for modeling purposes they are merely aesthetic.

21mmp4,

we used exactly the same method to re gauge our locos. I have been doing this for about 3 years now and have done all of my 141/181's and 071's the same way. Did you get the idea from the article in the Scalefourum magazine a few years ago as I did? My only nemisis with the whole thing is the odd wheel I can't get to go on perfectly square to the axle...although it so subtle that it doesn't affect the running of the loco.

Noel, how did you get the decoder, I was on their site and it's says it's still a work in progress?

I've got you all beat.... they've had $657 of my money since January 2014 and I've got nothing in return!

You are just the person I need to talk to....How do you modify the body to fit the wider axels? I have some un-painted Dapol wagons I'd love to do this with. By the way...Fantastic work!

Thanks again, most helpful!

Thank you for the advice! By the way what would be the most accurate shade of grey? (I know I'm probably sound a little ridiculous now) I was thinking along the lines of LMS grey but really lightened up as I've been told they were towards the '60s onwards. And as far as the brown goes, I've been told that they were pretty close to the British Rail Bauxite?

Hi all,

I realize that the body and chassis are the same colour ie; all grey or all brown but what about the roof?

John.

Fantastic! I'll have to pick your brains for some tips!

Sounds fantastic! Do you have the MSB decoder as well?...and if you do, how does it compare? I have a 141 decoder on the way from MSB but now I hope it's not a mistake having heard the sample of the EMD 567 on the Loksound site. I discovered this clip only days after ordering from MSB...

Thanks again! By the way, does your name have any bearing as to where you're from? Only reason I ask is because my family is from Westport...

Great article and thanks for all that valuable information! So would CIE also have used the LMS grey and as well, what would the closest British colour to the Red/brown coloured wagons?

Hi everyone,

I'm brand new to the site and will be full of questions looking for your expertise! First off, which British ready to run wagons would be closest to getting a match for some of the old CIE wagons? I already ordered four of the Dapol un-painted banana vans which I'm sure I have seen used by some of you. I would just like to find some more that would closely resemble (although I know they'd never be perfect) the real thing.

Cheers,

John.