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Many years of headache finally being sorted watching you do this research….   At this stage you could do a documentary with those documentary resources!

For now, anyway 😂

2 071s for sale atm. https://ebay.us/m/O7QHkv   https://ebay.us/m/OvCLti

I will in due course start a new thread on the green liveries. I’ve been researching the topic for a while, and I still need to digest all the stuff I found in the archives before writing the thread.  The reference to Brilliant Green is in the spring 1954 journal, and given communication and publication times it probably refers to events in late 1953. Therefore the Brilliant Green may be one of the ‘experimental’ 1953 liveries, rather than what became the standard light green around 1955.    This is an agreed standard for the 1955/6 light green: I have a lot of work still to do to cross-reference the documentary sources and photos. Please bear with me!

I ended up biting the bullet  and replacing 191s mainframes. I originally assembled the chassis using the frames from my orignal test etch for a superheated J15 conversion and later discovered the frame spacers were a bit narrow for a 21mm gauge loco as a result of my choice of combination of gearbox and hornblocks 🙄.  The High Level LoadHauler Compact gearbox chosen is considerably wider (11.8mm) than other gearboxes in the High Level range and my selection of a removable wheelset in hornblocks for the driven axle takes up more space (width) than a rigidly mounted driven axle in top hat bearings conventionally used with compensated or rigid chassis. I have successfully used the "narrower' High Level RoadRunner gearbox with rigid chassis in OO. I decided to assemble 191s new (slighlly wider chassis) as a compenated chassis using High Level hornblocks on all axles, chassis is all solder construction with L shaped fold-up frame spacers with slot and tab construction to simplify alignment. Hornblock Jig is a bit of a mess, mixture of springs and extended axles from different alignment jigs. In this case preparing to align a pair of axles at a time on an 0-6-0 having only 2 springs! One of the advantages of the High Level hornblock is that they are simpler to set up and align than other brands. The hornblock incorporates a stop useful in setting the hornblocks at a consistent height, while the holes in the hornblock guides help maintain (all important vertical) alignment while setting up/soldering the hornblocks. In this case 0.45mm wire threaded through the holes! Aligning the hornblocks '2 axles at a time" cause I only have 2 springs! Coupling rods have been opened out with a tapered broach rods secured temp with solder wire. Trailing hornblocks and axle now set up, ends of jig pushed into a block of balsa. Compensation beam fitted to floating axles.  Trailing (fixed) hornblocks stop/ride height app 0.5mm below floating axles. I have began to prefer the tapered hornblock alignment jigs as the original stepped alignment jigs were less accurate, sometimes leading to binding coupling rods. The step diameter was inconsistent between different sides of the jig. With the tapered version the rod can be pressed home until it stops.                 191 temporarily on its wheels. Next job laminated coupling rods, levek chassis and assemble brake gear (loco & tender) and find/locate coupling rod brushes. and hopefully test chassis.