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David Holman

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David Holman last won the day on June 4

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About David Holman

  • Birthday June 18

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    SE England

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  • Biography
    Former primary headteacher.
    Active modeller for 30 years, last 20+ in 0 Gauge [Guild Member]. Several articles in Railway Modeller around layouts Hawkhurst & Cranbrook town [both 0n16.5], and Loose End and Eatonswell [standard gauge], plus one in Model Railway Journal on Wantage well tank.
    Long term interest in Irish Railways, for reasons can't explain, other than their obvious charm. Now working on 36.75mm, 7mm scale model of a Sligo, Leitrim & northern Counties railway proposed branch line

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    Model Railways, bird watching, walking, most sports.

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    Retired primary headteacher and schools advisor

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  1. Not suggesting you copy me, because dropper wires to an under baseboard bus, is the correct convention as Alan says. However, in building over a dozen layouts over the years (and taking them to over 100 exhibitions), have never used the approach. Instead, just solder wires to each track section and then run them to tag strips under each baseboard. Power goes to the tag strips from the controller and transformer. Any track joints in each section are soldered too. Taking layouts to shows involved repeat dismantling and reassembling of baseboards, with the electrical connections between them achieved with multiple computer D plugs and sockets. Over the years, have had the (very) occasional failure of a solder joint, but easy to find and fix.
  2. Measure twice, cut once, the old saying goes - to which I would add, Look, Look and Look Again. This is because, in checking out photos of Phoenix, noticed that I'd missed a couple of things on the Railcar and Unit, in particular the front buffer beam - or lack of it. Must admit, I had wondered about this especially whether it was painted a different same of red to the body. Well, how wrong can you be, because not only is the buffer beam much narrower than it was in Clogher Valley days, it is also black. So, out with the Dremel and a slitting disc to cut down the offending articles, then a coat of matt black and job done. The ladder to the roof rack on the railcar is in the wrong place & needs to be offset to one side, but that will have to wait, so don't tell anyone for now. Phoenix has proved to be another reason to study as many photos as possible. Cream upper body, red lower body and black under frames? Not quite. The window frames seem to be black, as is the beading above/below the red body work. This certainly helps lift the ugly duckling a little, though swan it ain't! The picture below gives some idea, though there is quite a way to go yet, in particular weathering. Some photos show it utterly filthy, but in others it is quite well turned out, so no decision yet.
  3. Indeed, but you now have 22 pages of enjoyment to catch up on!
  4. Certainly no scrapping allowed - though have wondered if (had they been in better condition), the Swilly might have been tempted to take them on? Not sure what purpose they would have had, but might have looked good in that lined, dark green they used.
  5. Added most of the bits to Phoenix yesterday, so gave it a coat of primer and took these photos to check things. Now needs glazing and crew, then the roof can be fixed, then couplings & it will be painting and lettering time.
  6. Shades of the Bulleid pacifics. Can never understand why they were rebuilt and 'unrebuilt'. What was wrong with original?
  7. While the Railcar and Unit were little more than repaints, a fair bit more work is required to turn the Atkinson-Walker tractor into Phoenix. The model started life as a set of etches from Worsley Works, but as these were actually for Phoenix, I had to adapt them for the tractor. This involved making a new, shorter 'bonnet', different roof, 'steam' chimney, fenders, headlights on the lower body and a representation of the vertical boiler and steam engine. All these now need replacing to put it back [forward?] to Phoenix! The first picture shows the chassis I used - a motor bogie I picked up from a second hand stall at Expo Narrow Gauge several years ago. While there is no evidence of a manufacturer, I think it might be Rivarossi. Either way, it is four wheel drive and comes with a flywheel too, albeit also a top speed much higher than required. Glued a couple of L shaped bits of brass to it, drilled to take fixing bolts to the body. The next pictures show the body, with some of the bits removed - headlights, roof, interior, fenders, etc. This morning I unsoldered the 'front?' windscreen and then set about altering the bodywork. Was hoping that I would find I still had the Worsley etches in my scrap box, but no. However, a reasonable substitute appeared in the etches from the J26 kit - namely the cab extension to turn it into one of the Waterford & Tramore locos. A bit of trimming was required, but along with a couple of spectacle rings I found, it all saved me a lot of awkward work. The cab extension on Phoenix is wider than the A-W body, so needed a couple of strips of brass to fill the gaps, but otherwise it was only a couple of hours cutting, filing and soldering to get the basic bodywork to its new outline. The original tractor wasn't pretty, but Henry Forbes conversion did it no favours at all! Plenty still to do mind.
  8. In 7mm scale, if you want to do 36.75mm gauge, the instructions say you simply solder the top hat driving wheel bearings back to front, which gives a decent spacing for the drivers, plus a bit of side play which can be taken up by washers if required. Sounds a bit crude and when I made my first J26, I did consider making plasticard overlays for the frames to hide the gap. However, perhaps because we mainly see our models side on, the difference hasn't been noticeable and over many exhibitions, nobody has yet commented on this and all subsequent kits have been built the same way. Presume it would work ok in 4mm scale too, but if the bearings stick out too far, it would be a simple matter to file them down a bit. Another thought on 21mm gauge is curve radii. On Fintonagh, the points are 900mm radius, which has been fine for the 0-4-2Ts and railcars, but when I built the Barclay 4-6-0T, found this was a bit tight as I'd made the frame spacers the same width. Hence a rebuild may be necessary with narrower spacers to enable a bit more side play.
  9. Code 70 better for lightweight track Colin. Nothing wrong with EM standards. Indeed, have used 4mm finescale standards on Fintonagh for 3' gauge, 21mm track in 7mm scale. So 1mm flangeways through the points, standard finescale wheels/flanges and 19.2mm back to backs. Has worked well over the years.
  10. Would think there's a High Level gear box that will fit. The crucial thing will be to fill every available space with lead to ensure enough adhesion. No worries about binding coupling rods or quartering driving wheels though!
  11. Well done! At the time, always thought it was one of their better models and nice to see it running well. Will today's high quality mechanisms still do the same in 40 years time? Who knows?
  12. There is no doubt that a lot of these old models have plenty of charm, though few compare to what is available today. Good fun doing them up though and nice to give them a new lease of life.
  13. Interesting, but then Rice always is. Since his dad demise some of his books, especially the American track plan ones are going for silly money, like £200+... Will be good to see how you get on, as there is certainly room for improvement on my model!
  14. Fine progress thus far, Alan. Don't know if this will help, but here are a couple of pics of my AlphaG GSWR 2-4-2T. The pony trucks sort of float on a couple of 0.9mm N/S wires, though am wondering if 0.7 would be better. 0.5mm phosphor bronze wire for the pickups on these wheels, but they have tendency to stop turning going through points.
  15. Thanks folks - certainly helped with my thinking. Here is the Unit, now Donegal No5 in its new, two tone livery. Very much shades of BR parcels lorries?
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