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Brack

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Posts posted by Brack

  1. The barclay is shaping up nicely.

     

    Zooming in on a few of Dad's photos, whilst i can't find a top down view (west donegal not entirely being overbridge country) and i don't think the tanks are sheeted over flat to the boiler, there is a little fill in piece at the front that follows the boiler's arc, where the handrail comes out (not entirely sure I'm making much sense here, but hopefully zooming in on the photos will help decipher what I'm saying!).

     

    L&LSR 1948-04-19 Pennyburn 4 in shed HCC51717a L&LSR 1952-06-27 No 3 at Tooban Junction 1147-3 LLSR No3 Newtown Cunningham station Ireland (JW Armstr

     

    • Like 6
  2. Looking at the service sheet (linked on here)

    https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360016395479-HSS-415-Adams-Radial-4-4-2T

    Might give some clues.

    What I would say is that even if the rods will pass, do you want to go through all the work and effort of scratchbuilding a body and have that little metal bit sticking out over the corner of the wheel?

    There was a guy on rmweb who used the chassis for some small highland 440s who chopped the protrusions off and just glued the motor in. I don't think it'd be too tricky, just drop the wheels and wrap everything in masking tape and clingfilm before you start cutting.

    Ironically, the oxford Radial looks to be more amenable in the chassis department:

    31554414043_46154b3d9d_z.jpg

    And theres a body free one on ebay

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185556702795?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=185556702795&targetid=1405537545018&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006688&poi=&campaignid=17218284410&mkgroupid=142217514411&rlsatarget=pla-1405537545018&abcId=9300867&merchantid=116614716&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3rnCms2u-gIVDtTtCh20xw-gEAQYBSABEgIJRfD_BwE

    • Thanks 1
  3. Apologies if I've missed it, but what scale are you going for?

    I'm just think that in 7mm rtr chassis on 16.5mm I'd probably start from a SR schools class - 10' coupled wheelbase and 6'7" wheels should scale out at 40mm/26.33mm

     

    The S class had 6'3 coupled wheelbase and 3'9" wheels, in 7mm that'd be  43.75mm/26.25mm

    The Hornby Railroad ones are loco drive, and quite a compact chassis unit too - the bogie/cylinder end should be pretty easy to saw off.

    sr-schools-hornby-china-chassis-dapol_36

    The Radial has smaller wheels and a shorter wheelbase, but if you were looking at 5.5mm it might well be a better bet and you can ignore my musings in this post!

     

  4. The question people will ask is about whether 16.5mm looks ok for 3'. That's a personal opinion really - like 16.5 vs 21 for broad gauge in 4mm.

    Dad (IrishSwissErnie) and I did some irish NG in O-16.5 about 20 years ago (an earlier incarnation of the sligo and donegal junction).

    Everything was built using rtr 00 chassis - 21t hopper chassis for most vans/wagons and plate frame bogie bolster bogies. Locos used Bachmann's manor, mogul, n class and v1.

    All styrene, lots of micro strip. Dad built most of the stuff, with a teenage me contributing a few wagons, vans, a railcar, an open topped cattle wagon and a Chilean taltal railway kitson meyer and nitrate gondola that perhaps were a touch extravagant!

    Mostly freelance designs based around the products of certain builders. The length of run in the loft must've been nearly 40', but to me,  watching a cattle train trundle along the scruffy grass, over the bridge and into the station was convincing enough.

    S&DJR s036 Sligo & Donegal Junction RLY stills from video Oct 2000 now defunct (6)

    My favourite locos were 1 & 2, a pair of beyer peacock 060t built on bachmann 43xx chassis.

    He's got more photos and videos on his flickr in this album.

    Model railway layouts

    (Click on the image and I think it takes you there).

    • Like 8
  5. The tanfield railway also have a few pregrouping coaches - ex NER, GNR and MSLR. Bodies retrieved from allotments and holiday camps, mostly on ex CCT 4w underframes, but they feel more appropriate to the railway and locos than a bunch of Mk1s would.

    I rode on the Blonay-Chamby in switzerland in an ex RhB 4 wheeler and in each compartment, tied the the luggage nets was a very nicely put together scrapbook of photos showing that exact coach from builders photo in 1889, with a photo showing each decade of its service life, departmental use, deterioration and then restoration. A really nice touch, making you appreciate the preservation of the coach rather than just the loco pulling you.

    I'd hope the knotty coaches have something similar - those who put them back together deserve to have that recognition of the scale of the effort required.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, jhb171achill said:

    Even in the Emperorship of Boristan, vehicles THAT far gone are rarely rescued

    https://knottycoachtrust.org.uk/history-of-no-23/

    These people at foxfield have done some remarkable work, but I agree - if currently restored revenue earning vehicles can't be maintained, I cannot see it being possible to fix up a non revenue earning vehicle that is very far gone. A shame, but I can't see it happening.

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  7. On another forum, in a chat about grounded van bodies, a member mentioned he knew of one very far gone body in a field. It's inland from Larne.

    I asked his permission to bost the photos here, in the hope that somebody hear might be able to help work out what it is/was?

    The folk who own the field reckon it's been there since the 50s, and was once a hen house, but the man who used to keep the hens is long gone. There is somewhere to tie up livestock inside, but whether it's original or not is unknown.

    P1210048 P1210049 P1210055 P1210050 P1210052

    Looks like some sort of brake van with a single balcony end, but with doors for general goods, so a bit like a LSWR road van or the SLNCR drovers vans, but obviously not either of those.

    Apparently the body is about 8' wide.

    Did the NCC have anything similar? It's in their territory, closer to the narrow gauge than anything else.

    He, and the owners would be interested to know what it once was, and any pictures would be very interesting.

     

    • Like 1
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  8. Yes, they're just those ones.

    12 hours ago, Galteemore said:

    They aren’t Methfix ones by any chance ? 

    Don't think so - I've questioned myself enough - at one point I wondered if they were press fix as the top surface seemed to want to stick more than the bottom. Obviously the snail would then be the wrong way around, so that isn't the case, but perhaps I wasn't thinking the clearest when I was working on them past midnight!

    • Like 1
  9. Thanks for the suggestions. The wagons are painted Matt, but I'd used klear to gloss the area for the transfers, which usually works for me. Will have to have another think. Perhaps several layers of klear, a fresher bottle, or a different gloss varnish. I've always used klear as it is thin, bomb proof in terms of not reacting with other paints, and cheap. It works really well to seal in fiddly transfers like archer's rivets.

    It's weird- not known transfers that both desperately want to curl and have no desire to stick either, and I've used some ancient ones in the past!

    Will give it a few days to think.

  10. On a slightly more depressing note, bought some microsol/set, put a bit of klear/gloss varnish on the surface (which has had a week to dry).

    Tried twice more on the snails.

    This happens every time:16364078707665660214751504078005.thumb.jpg.c6eb15c6786139146ef19cf15672eac0.jpg

    They curl up into a tight little roll.

    The transfers look fine on their backing, but I've made a lot of models, with decals from loads of different sources and never had any do this before. A bit of silvering, or old decals tearing, but none that literally curl up away from the surface whatever you do.

    16364080079063794619144648062631.thumb.jpg.1fe4e95d20d27ca86c0c4091c3d00e82.jpg

    This is from the other week - decals went on fine.

    Might try and paint one. Or 3D print a stamp or stencil!

    • Like 1
  11. Bit of a pain today with the cattle wagons - the snails curled up and wouldn't stick, despite attempting to persuade them with carrs transfix and others. I haven't had any trouble shoving transfers straight onto halfords grey before, but these definitely aren't cooperating.

    Plan B involves a coating of klear on the area first, and I've ordered some microsol/microset as I've heard others swear by it. So there might be a brief hiatus until they turn up.

    It was all going a bit too smoothly!

    As an aside, the cattle wagons are a vastly easier build than the corrugated wagons - there is a lot of drilling, but a pillar drill makes light work of it. I only broke 1 drill this time too.

    20211029_181101.jpg

    • Like 7
  12. Done a bit more after the kids went to bed. Details on and given a spray.

    I used the last of my can of Halfords CIE gray, down to fumes, but just about got there.

    Tomorrow I might get the decals and weathering on. 

    20211029_011333.thumb.jpg.c8a7d62e8b1483eb07bcddcbd1a1951c.jpg

    We should really have come to see you at the end of the week Dad, rather than on tuesday! Still, your birthday/christmas present is sorted!

    Although I still need to make some sort of trolley for you little works line.

    • Like 7
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  13. On the subject of small ships - a while back I looked at the Ilen

    EOl-gy6UUAAx6AK.jpg

    (A 56' ketch built in ireland for serving isolated stations in the falklands, but recently returned and restored).

    there are lines plans and 3D models of the hull available online

    http://www.tradboats.ie/projects/south/ak-ilen/

    (Tradboats also has a lot of other useful scans/plans of little boats)

    https://afloat.ie/blogs/sailing-saturday-with-wm-nixon/item/27910-vintage-wooden-boats-get-a-lift

    And the images on this site might give you enough to make profiles for the hull:

    https://bluejaydesign.github.io/projects/ilen/ilen.html

     

    • Like 2
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  14. Regarding the point throw and rotating ground signals, perhaps a lever or bell crank to multiply the linear movement of the points.

    Image_2_grande.JPG?v=1566841634

     then a link to a crank or rack and pinion (or small geneva wheel?) to convert that to rotary movement. It'd take some adjustment to get it spot on though.

    Or you could put a servo motor to rotate the ground signal triggered by the same switch as the point.

    • Informative 1
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