David

Price reduced to €110.

Not rare in my house

Maybe so but tricky to get it you wanted one

I'm willing to accept offers on this loco.

I approve!

You've got the wrong man! The other Dave does the baseboards

I approve!

Looking good Stephen. Get yourself something like this:

Do this and then give the whole track a light airbrushing of sleeper grime to tone it down.

There are 1 or 2 drawings of GNR loco(defo a 4-4-0 but not sure what one) motion in the book 'Locomotives Of The GNRI' by Norman Johnston.

Hi guys,

I'm selling the following item. It is in mind condition and has never been run.

Bachmann 32-150(W) CIE Woolwich Mogul number 383 matt black - €110

Cheers

David

Hi guys,

I'm selling the items below. All are mint condition and have never been taken out of their boxes since buying. All are CIE Supertrain livery.

Sold! MM0190 - 181 Class number 190SA factory weathered - €90

Sold! MM0142 - 141 Class number 142 - €90

Sold! MM0161 - 141 Class number 161SA - €90

I will accept reasonable offers of course.

Cheers

David

Can I assume that the 'cables' and parallel steel 'thingies' are the CAWS protecting the signals?

The CAWS signal is transmitted through the rail to pickup coils on the loco/railcar all along the section of track coming up to a signal.

What's the other UP diesel that you have there? Is it one of the gas turbine locos?

it would be great if we had a vid of someone doing that type of commemtary on an irish loco like the metro vic's or any of the fleet. was there ever such a vid produced?

That loco is a SW9. Not a million miles away from a 121 class. Even has the same series engine! Nice vid!

LHB stock as featured in The Commitments ?

That's the one! Still at the earliest part of the planning stage but looking more and more likely to come!

Funny you say that I've been looking at her on You Tube in the black livery and she is pristine if anything the model should get a coat of gloss as it ain't as shiny as the real loco, have a look at this video of her. BTW check her out at the end of the video when she enters the sun light.

The gloss finish on the bachmann Woolwich looked very realistic. I've been seriously considering putting gloss varnish on locos that wont be getting weathered for a more realistic pristine look.

Which wheel is flangeless Anto? The one under the cab/firebox?

Also the cravens models have under-scale wheel sizes so this doesn't help!

I put it on the rear axle of a new Hornby Scot and it just didn't like it and caused it to derail and run badly you can't put it on all axles as it reduces the pick up on the axles you put it on. The way I get round the problem is to have a Westcoast railways 47/57 on the back like they do on the rail tours in the UK that way I can run up to 10/12 coaches per train.

It may simply work better or worse on different locos. Does it clean off if you want it to? The axle i added the tyre to on the black 5 was a sprung axle so maybe the key is to add traction to the sprung axle(most kettles have one). Where possible I'd add lead but smaller steam locos don't have much space to add it!

I put Bullfrog snot on my steamers and while it improved pulling power it lead to poor pick-up and on some locos bad running what I do now is put lead in my steamers.

Did you put it on all driving axles or just one? In the case of the Black 5 I modified, it only needed 1 traction tire to more than double traction and this had no effect on pickups as that loco had 12 pickup wheels to begin with. Most kettles these days have pickups on tender and/or carrying wheels so putting tires or bullfrog snot on one axle should make no difference to running. And I notice that some of the new 4-4-0 models(T9, 2P etc.) have traction tires on one axle. I have one, very powerful and no loss of smoothness.

Agreed about the 201 Anto, a little underpowered for a model of a 3000hp loco.

The experiment with the Black 5 showed a massive increase in power(it was literally 2 or 3 times as strong a puller) with only 1 traction tire! So with that Bullfrog Snot you should only need to do one axle or maybe only one wheel to keep power pickup as good as possible.

PS Sorry to hijack your thread Kirley! Hope the info is of some use on your layout!

There's Bullfrog Snot too, no need to get the lathe out! http://www.bullfrogsnot.com/

That's a good find! Any idea if it dries green?!

Interesting, I may check that out. Thanks for the tip!

You can pop the springs back in if you find it makes no difference. I didn't have the chance to test it on much of a gradient so I'm not sure if it makes much difference but in theory in should.

However the Experts would suggest helix’s are not for Steam Locomotives.

Years ago I got a Hornby Black 5 and wasn't happy at all with it's pulling power. I took off one of the driving wheels and turned a groove in it on a lathe and added a single traction tire. This loco can now pull unrealistically long rakes up steep gradients without slipping! Might be worth doing if you ever want to run steam up the helix. The tire is almost invisible to those who are not aware of it too!

I still think it's drastic action and not something I would go for personally. One thing I would look at is how freewheeling the rolling stock is. I notice that a lot of modern rolling stock is not as freewheeling as say, an old Lima Mark I. Check back to backs etc. I ran a new 201 on A4Mallards layout with three sets of Dapol Megafret container wagons (each set = 2 wagons, so essentially 6 container wagons) and it ground to a halt in the corners where there was an incline. The wagons are poor runners, not free at all, and i reckon the 201s could do with more weight and 12 wheel drive because a Bachmann 66 pulled them and more no problems.

 

Either that or re-do the helix if it's causing too many problems. Big and annoying job that though!

The 201 has the centre axle fairly strongly sprung as well further reducing adhesion to the outer driving wheels. I recently removed the springing on a friend's 201 so as to make the centre axle float and then all the loco weight is riding on the drivers. Worth Doing I think.

I wouldn't do anything like that if you want to maintain smooth running, especially as the trains are climbing with little room for big derailments when the only alternative is crunching on the floor below.

I don't mean hacking the track to bits. When I was a kid I had a small layout with steep gradients on a sharp curve. So I rubbed the railhead lightly with a file to reduce the shiny smoothness of the rail. This noticeably increased traction and had no effect on smooth running or increase in derailment. Might be worth a try on a test track or a short part of the helix.