Tullygrainey

@Dunluce Castle Nelson's W-irons in 20 thou plastic are masterpieces. I always reckoned that was impossible!

As a modeller of the BCDR, I’m always on the lookout for RTR models or kits that could be hacked into something approximating County Down stock and I have to say the pickings are pretty slim both for locomotives and rolling stock. Honourable mention must be made here of @leslie10646's Dapol conversions of BCDR opens and EDSS coal wagons which were/are beacons of hope in an otherwise empty space. More often than not, scratch building is the better option. Even that Kernow brake van will need a fair bit of work. As regards rolling stock, one of the most prominent features but also one of the biggest modelling challenges is the outside W-irons commonly seen on BCDR stock. If these are present on a model, it’s already well on the way to being convincingly BCDR to the extent that other inaccuracies can become less noticeable. I have used an etch from Dart Castings’ MJT range to model W-irons but it requires a tedious amount of cutting and soldering to produce something convincing yet even then not quite accurate. I have searched in vain for ready made etches that might make the job a bit easier. To end on a less pessimistic note, a Midland Railways 8 ton 3 plank drop side wagon from Slater's 4mm range of plastic kits provides a reasonable basis for a BCDR 8 ton open. Alan

Most decoders are built to a common standard and as such will work ok with your NCE Powercab. I use the NCE system and have never encountered incompatibilities with any decoder. Most decoders also come with some variety of plug attached but as you're planning to hard wire it - and given the limited space you have to work in that's probably the most compact way to do it - it doesn't matter what sort you buy as you'll be cutting the plug off anyway. However, avoid the ones described as 'direct'. These need a socket to plug into which would take up space. My first criterion when buying decoders has always been size because I'm usually cramming them into small spaces. The range from DCC Concepts contains some of the smallest I've come across. Alan

Excellent! Great start JB. There's one thing you should know though. About this brass kit building malarkey. It's addictive

The majority of the fiddly bits are now done. Buffers, safety valves and vacuum pipes from Alan Gibson. The footplate steps are a Mainly Trains etch from Wizard Models. I made the chimney in the now traditional manner with brass tube, a washer and lots of solder. The dome is wooden dowel with a plasticard flange and filler to blend the two together. Still a bit of work to do on this before I cut away the surplus plastic and glue it on. Alan

It's a tricky job finding places to stow all of that but it's looking very neat so far. Despite my best efforts, my DCC installations always end up looking like multicoloured spaghetti.

Looking forward to watching this develop. I've hacked a fair few of those Hornby 0-4-0s but probably not quite as extensively as you're planning. A few suggestions for parts: Buffers: Alan Gibson (workshop) : Part No 4908 Early GWR Dean buffers. I've found these a good match for some Irish locos. http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/ Hooks: Brassmasters etched hooks and chain https://www.brassmasters.co.uk/3-link_couplings.htm Smokebox door wheels : Wizard Models MT260 https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/buildings/mt260/ Gearboxes You'd do no better than something from the High Level range but I suspect the difficulty would be fitting one of these into the Hornby chassis https://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/gearboxes I've also used Hornby outside cylinder spares from Peter's Spares to sort the lack of crossheads on the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis https://www.petersspares.com/p/hornby-x8834w-class-28xx-2-8-0-loco-valve-gear-set-weathered Alan

Now that is very fine indeed!

That landscaping is a delight JB. Just perfect!

Hi Jamie, Welcome to the forum. It's good to hear from someone else who shares my affection for the narrow gauge Peckett at Cultra. I've sent you a message with some photos and measurements which I hope will be helpful for your project. Alan

In the cold hard light of day this morning, I could see the boiler was too long (still!) More butchery careful fettling dispensed with an unnecessary 6 scale inches of boiler. Still a bit long but then, so's the chassis but it looks better now, to my eye at least. Alan School of 'measure once, cut as many times as necessary'

That won't help the waistline either!

That works a treat! They look really well. Very convincing. Thanks Darius. I’ll try that. Pies! There goes the waistline.

I bottled out of buying a Dremel years ago and bought a cheaper alternative. Bad move. Its minimum speed is still too fast for delicate work and I've done more damage than enough with it. A reminder that it's always best to avoid cheap tools. I knew that but it didn't stop me!

Thanks David. After marking it out, I drill a few strategic holes and roughly cut out the unwanted bits with a piercing saw, a little way inside the lines. Then I file the edges back to the lines. This is where those Valorbe Swiss files earn their keep!