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Weshty

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Posts posted by Weshty

  1. That brake van look sweet mate well done.:-bd Is there no roof supplied with the kit

    Anthony, the kit comes with a 0.27mm styrene sheet roof cut to size. I have also now included two styrene roof vents/chimneys/stovepipes.

  2. Finally got the 30 ton break van done.I have to say the kit is very enjoyable to

    build,and well done Des.I used Ral 3009-red oixed from Vinnie Byrne .com as this

    has proved very handy for me as I dont have a proper air brush system so this works

    a treat,as the ballast hopper wagons and MIR bogie feralizer wagons got the same.

    Plenty of superglue left on the body will give a flakey appearance when paint is put on

    as this will give a somewhat wornout rusty-like areas that appear on the real thing.

    breakvan019.jpg

    breakvan020.jpg

    breakvan023.jpg

    breakvan026.jpg

    breakvan027.jpg

    breakvan028.jpg

    breakvan032.jpg

    breakvan036.jpg

    breakvan038.jpg

    breakvan041.jpg

    breakvan043.jpg

    breakvan044.jpg

     

    Clucking bell Eamon, lovely, lovely job done. You've made it exactly as I had envisioned it! May I use one or two of the photos on the SSM site? Might even give them their own page! Love the duckets. Did the 2mm masking tape come in useful?

     

    And great to see the signals coming along as well.

  3. How many people do you think would notice it Des. When I lived in London I used to travel through Clapham Junction daily and I really got interested in all things per way. I love seeing all the wires rodding and associated bits leaving the base of the cabin and along the track to the crossings and signals. Your signals are that good Des that I feel adding all the other machinery will really set them off. Take a look at all this (taken at Clonmel with permission) just for one crossover.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]643[/ATTACH]

     

    This is the equipment leaving the cabin taken on the same day.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]644[/ATTACH]

     

    I believe that if you choose to model a real location in it's current state, and you are hand building the track then you owe it to yourself to try and complete as much of the detail as you can. To be honest Des I am more freaked out about having to do the wiring and scenic work than the actual building of track, signals, buildings etc. I kind of hope that the layout will always be a work in progress and although it might look complete it would be nice to always add or change little bits and pieces as time moves on. All I need now Des is for you to produce a nice footbridge (hint hint) and most of the raw materials will be ready for when the build will commence.

     

    Rich,

     

    A footbridge could be a while yet. Have you checked out Alan Gibson's Midland Footbridge (4mm91). Retails at about £55, I've been meaning to get one to see how it compares to what we have in Ennis.

     

     

    BTW, Dave, those Mk3s are the business!

  4. Stunning, just stunning. I don't care if I never get to build the kit, I just want it in my collection. You really have maximised just what can be done with modern PC tools.

     

    Would you do a commission, particularly if it had commercial viability (small and thus easy to build and relatively generic?). Drop me a line!

  5. I don't know Des, sometimes you get ideas and before you know it you're turning it into an obsession. I have been taking a look at Brassmaster point rodding, pulleys and all other matter of detailing bits and bobs. I like the look of the Colin Craig etches for trackwork also.

     

    Rich,

     

    "Brassmaster point rodding, pulleys and all other matter of detailing bits and bobs. " Oh Lordy , give me strength....I'd love to see that on a layout!

  6. Thank You, "Eiretrains" and answers, much appreciated, and others for comments. Recomended books & videos on order.:-bd

    Now, a few more Q's If I may.

    Q. When did CIE stop using brakevans?

    Q. Is there anywhere a date guide/info on CIE freight stock liveries? I've scoured the internet without much success.

    and finally Q. I see I can get specialised decals/transfers from Studio Scale Models. Is there anywhere I can get a sheet of every day bog standard CIE roundels. The CIE in a circle rather than Flying Snails.

    Thank you in advance for any replies.;)

     

    Hi Frank,

    I have the roundals available in a pack

    plain white

    black

    yellow roundal with white centre centre writing

    etc.

    various sizes.

     

    Regards

    Weshty

  7. Yes I love that photo of Currabaha Level Crossing with the Weed Killer train in the distance,

    on the Waterford-Ballinacourty Branch.Photo was taken by David Parks in 85 or 86 and loco

    stalled big time on the middle of the main Cork road,causing traffic delays.This crossing is

    the one just west of Kilmackthomas on the former main road.

     

    David Parks, now that's a blast from the past, I remember meeting him at the GSRPS up in Mallow station round about '84-'85.

  8. Good post well worth looking at but which bits of the kit were missing or was hejust expecting more bits .

    the photos are great and useful . made my mind up i want one now

     

    Hi Waffles,

    The four veranda-end t-bars are not in the etch, but can be fashioned from the 1mm wide struts holding the etched parts together. The parts George is talking about were the transfers, glazing and styrene roof which I sent on two days after sending the main kit.

     

     

    Regards

    Weshty

  9. I think that would pretty much cover it, Des. I guess anyone looking for the kits would need enough to make a full rake - same as the bubbles, I'd say.

     

    Re. skirting, I guess only one type had what you'd call 'skirting', but it's really bracing for the tank. Both types can be seen in this shot: http://eiretrains.com/Photo_Gallery/Railway%20Stations%20F/Foynes/slides/Foynes_20100818_002_CC_JA.html

     

    Ah, I haves yez. Sound man. Will be added to the "to do" pile.

  10. Seamus,

     

    "...are all soldering irons the same?"

     

    A perfectly valid question. Some have adjustable settings, useful if soldering whitemetal to brass (NOT something I would try, that's what superglue was invented for).

     

    I bought a bog standard electric one for €12 about four years ago and it does the job just fine.

     

     

    I did buy one of those gas powered ones thinking there would be more control and portability but it's a nuisance as you have to refill them. With the electric one you can just leave it on for the 1-2 hour session you'd be using it for.

     

    To solder:

    Give the iron 5-10 minutes to heat up

    Dip the iron tip in the flux bottle

    Touch against the solder wire

    Dip in the solder bottle again and the solder will run up the tip. This is called "tinning the tip", and you are now ready for business.

     

    Sand the two surfaces to be connected

    Use a small little paintbrush to dap some flux on both the surfaces.

    Touch the solder tip against the solder and get a small drop on the solder tip

    Touch against one of the surfaces and it will run onto the surface (the flux breaks down the surface tension and helps it run)

    Put the two surfaces together

    Press the soldering tip against it for a second ot two to heat the solder, and remove the tip once the solder liquifies and runs.

     

    Job OXO.

  11. Would love if somebody (*cough* Weshty? *cough*) could produce a detailing kit for the tankers, specifically the ladders and walkways, as the walkways supplied with the kit aren't quite right and the plastic ladder looks a bit too chunky. Maybe also an option for the two different types of skirting that run along the base of the tank...

     

    Heh! Main question is, how many of these detailing kits would people be looking for? And what do you need in them?

     

    Ladders x 2

    Walkway x 1

    Skirting (two types?? Do elaborate good sir....) photos will help.

     

    No promises mind. A few things to sort out in the next short while first :-)))))

  12. Well said Des, I'd definitely take a few of those bridges off ye. I think they would be an integral part of any Irish layout, especially for any by-gone era.

    Btw, I sent you a few e-mails, just wondering if you got them :tumbsup:

     

    Ahhh, I have yeh now! Sound man. Emails received, goodies will be delivered.

  13. Fast, fast work. The ironic thing is that, left to the elements, that victorian stone bridge would probably outlast its concrete re-inforced replacement by several hundred years.

     

    ftp://ftp.wsdot.wa.gov/public/Bridge/WBES2007/assets/monday/2B/Mike_Bartholomew_2B.pdf

     

    This study shows that most modern bridges have an expected lifespan of 100-120 years. The Kildare bridge was over 160 years old and managed traffic loads, no engineer could have foreseen.

     

     

     

    I'm working on manufacturing some resin bridges and "getting up close and personal" to measure them for the R&D, you realise just how well they are made and indeed are a work of art in their own right.

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