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controller

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Everything posted by controller

  1. Hi Noel, Thanks for your reply. Would you be able to explain a bit more how do I check the value of CV 21 or CV19 to see if FN1 has been masked off. I think if I can do that, I might be able to fix the problem. I am not familiar with CVs at all. Controller.
  2. Thanks Noel, Have things to do at the moment, but will give that a try this evening. Controller
  3. Hi Alan/Enda, Enda is the cons address the one you enter when you set up the double header?. Alan, as far as I know you can't access CVs on the Hornby Elite, I may be wrong. I am sure someone will put us right. I believe we need some understanding member on the forum to give us simple step by step instructions on how to Double Header. Like it's our first day at model railway school Controller
  4. I have double headed two MM 121. They work fine, except one of the locos runs slower than the other. And worse still, there is no sound , start-up, horn, nothing. I am using a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance. Do I need to access CVs to get these things to work, and if so, how do I go about this?. What CVs work what function?. One thing that does work is the head and marker lights. I doubled headed them using Advanced Consisting. When I separate them and give each a different address they work fine. Thanks, Controller.
  5. Thanks Garfield, I am looking forward to getting an A1 to add to my collection of locos. Especially one of the quality, that you guys are bringing out. There is no point in putting the wrong decoder into such a nice loco. So as soon as you have the right one, no matter how long it takes, I will order one. Keep up the good work and stay safe. Controller.
  6. Hi, I see that IRM have decoders for sale for the A class locos. I have an A1 class special edition silver loco on order. I don't see that this decoder is listed to suit this loco. Do I need to wait for another class of decoder for this loco, or are they all the same?. Thanks, Controller.
  7. Thanks IT, for that information. I am using a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance, a Gaugemaster capacitor and Gaugemaster PM4 points. Do I need a decoder to operate these, or will they work without one ?. Thanks Again, Controller.
  8. Hi, can someone tell me what strength wire I need for running from a controller to a capacitor and to a set of Seep self latching points. Am I right in calling these a bus wire? Also where can I get these wires? Thanks , Controller.
  9. Would I be right in saying, that the EDM567 sound decoder would be the right decoder for the 121 grey+yellow RPSI loco?. Controller.
  10. Thanks for that tip. As you know, the numbers on both ends of the MM 141 are very small, so that may be a good method to remove them. A trip to Woodies is on the cards. A quick question, both locos are CIE black B141(preserved). Were all these class of loco models ( black and white) numbered 141, or did they all have different numbers?. I would hate to change the numbers, just to find out that I should have left them as they are. Controller.
  11. Hi Noel, I had a look at the YouTube video from Chadwick Model Railway decal removal. He used T-cut, IPA, and Decalfix. The results were disastrous. It removed a hell of a lot of paint from the loco. I was watching another one where the guy used Micro Sol and Micro Set. The results were much better . Have you ever used these products, and what do you think?. Controller.
  12. Thanks Murphaph, I will look up YouTube and anywhere else I can get advice,before I try to do anything. Controller
  13. Thanks Murrayec,wise words. I have two 121 locos ordered from Marks, and two MM 121 sound decoders already payed for, so that's that sorted. Can T-Cut, and SSM decals be bought in Marks, or do I need to go online?. Controller
  14. Thanks all for all the info. Did MM ever bring out a sound decoder for the 141/181 loco?, or just the standard one?. Also I have two 141, both numbered 141. How do I remove the number from one of them, and replace it with another number?. Controller.
  15. Thanks Mayner, I don't have any information on the decoder, it has been in the train for a long time now. The train never really ran well, even though I thoroughly cleaned the motor and wheels. I don't think the decoder is up to much. Perhaps if I was to buy one of better quality, it may help. Thanks, Controller.
  16. Would I be wasting my time attaching this stay alive to this decoder to give a little boost to a ringfield motor. It runs well,but needs a little help every now and again. Can anyone tell me please, where to connect the black and blue wires to the decoder?. Thanks, Controller.
  17. I have this decoder connected to a ringfield motor on a hst 125. The wheels are as clean as I can get them, the motor has been taken apart and cleaned, and runs well. Problem is, when I try to run the train it stops and starts, I have to give it a little nudge to get it going again. If I connect the stay alive to the decoder, would it help. If so ,where do I solder the blue and black wires?. Or would it make any difference at all?. Thanks, Controller.
  18. Thanks Noel. I am glad I asked first before I went buying a LokProgammer. I have two 121 sound decoders ordered and payed for from Marks. I also have an A class ordered from IRM.I have two 071 and a 201 which are fitted with sound decoders. I have a couple of other small locos. Not a huge collection. I don't even have a permanent layout. When funds allow, I will look into wheeltappers for decoders for my two 141s. Like you say , I may be able to adjust some CV settings using my DCC controller. No doubt when all locos are delivered, I will be back to look for your help again. Thanks, Controller.
  19. Thanks Lads, Thanks for all the info. Just a couple of questions, can the ESU Lokprogrammer adjust settings on all decoders, or just ESU decoders?. If so where is the best place to order them from, and around how much are they?. Thanks, Controller.
  20. Thank you gentlemen, EMD 567 are the ones I will order. Thank you for all that information. I think I will buy two and tinker around with the CVs and see what happens. Lots to look forward to. Thanks again gentlemen. Controller.
  21. I have two 121 locos on order, black with white stripes. Which sound decoders do I need for these locos, EDM645 or EDM567?,or is there any difference?. Thanks, Controller.
  22. Thanks Murrayec, Green or purple wires sound the easiest way . I will give that a try later. Thanks, Controller.
  23. I am lighting a Hornby 0-6-0 BR diesel shunter. I am using a Hornby Decoder, Code R8249 four function Decoder V1. I am trying to get all the marker lights to stay on all the time, whether in forward or reverse.Can anyone help me with the wiring plan to achieve this.
  24. Thanks Eoin, Appreciate your reply. As you say, F2 is for toot on the horn. I need to keep this, for sound decoders on my 071 and 201. I have the decoder wires soldered to the correct colour wires on the lighting unit. There is a red and white light for the front of the loco, and a red and white for the rear, and a white light for the cab. Is there a way to get these functioning correctly by changing CVs. I have been helped before to change CVs, by lads on this forum, but I need help with this one. Thanks Again, Controller.
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