controller

Thanks for that. I had a feeling it was not one of them. I will take your advice and find the manufacturer number and check with Mark's in the morning to confirm . Thanks again, Controller

Sorry in the delay in getting back. I am not able to say which decoders they are. They are either a Hornby R8249 or a Bachmann 36-566.But they may not be either of these,I found the instruction leaflets for these in my bag of tricks.I will check with Marks Models to see if they can tell me which decoder they supplied with these locos. The only writing on the decoder is a small round sticker with the numbers 06/12/44. This may not mean anything. Thanks, Controller.

Hi Noel, The decoder has been working ok until now, when I use the Hornby Select. I bought the decoders when I bought the locos, and all functions are working ok. The only function I can't get to work with the Prodigy is the head light on both locos .Do you think I may have to do a decoder reset,in order to use the Prodigy?. If so I will have to read up on the users manual or look for help from you guys. Thanks, Controller.

Hi all, I have just purchased a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance.I programmed all the locos I have and everything is working fine, except my MM IR 201 and 071 head lights. Marker lights and cab lights are all working fine. FO 0 will turn on the marker lights, FO 3 and 4 will turn on the cab lights. FO 2 will turn on the head lights, but only for a couple of seconds. Any advice on what I need to do, to fix this problem. Thanks, Controller.

Hi Wrenneire, Have a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance DCCO2 ordered, hope to have it in about ten days or so. Looking forward to using it. Thanks, Controller.

Thanks Wrenneire, Will have a look at both and take my time to decide which one suits me best. Controller.

Hi, I have 300 euro to spend on a controller . I have a choice between the Hornby Elite and the Bachmann Dynamis. I have about ten locos. I would only run about two or three at a time. I would like to change the cv on some. I have read good and bad advice on both. Any advice on which one I should choose. Thanks, Controller.

Thanks Noel, I will bring it in to Marks, and see what they can do for me . (Cheaper than a new decoder). Controller.

I took the DCC decoder out again and replaced it with the blanking plate. I tested it on 12v DC, and it ran just great, no knocking noise at all .When I put back the DCC decoder, the knocking noise returned. I think I will buy a decent decoder and see will that solve the problem. If not,it's back to the shop.

Hi, I do not believe I would be able to take apart such a complicated piece of work . I will leave that to the experts. Thanks, Controller.

Hi lads, Thanks for all the advice. I think it is time for an upgrade. Maybe a Hornby Elite or better. I am not sure which decoder I have in the loco. I can hear a knocking noise from inside the loco , which is not in any of my other locos. It may be restricting one of the motors. When I turn on the decoder it will display 12-30-03. Thanks for the invite Wrenneire. I can not make it tonight,but I will call in soon. I will bring the loco with me, and avail of your expert advice.Are the clubrooms on Dorset St. Thanks again, Controller.

Hi Lads, I did as was suggested and removed the DCC decoder and replaced it with a blanking plate , and tested the loco on 12v DC. It ran just fine . I replaced the DCC decoder, and back to square one, slow.Can you explain about resetting the decoder, cv values etc. Is that the number you give the loco?. I have a Hornby Select,I know I am limited with what I can do with this controller.Can you tell me what shunting mode is?. When I was putting in the DCC decoder, I bent one of the pins.I managed to straighten it, but the decoder is a little bit tight. Could this affect the performance of the loco?. Thanks Lads, Controller.

Thanks Lads, I will try what you suggest and get back to you. Controller.

Hi, I bought a MM 071 sometime in 2014. It ran very slow. I brought it back to the shop, as I was not happy with it's performance. They changed the decoder and gave it a test run. They said it ran fine . I have no permanent layout, so I only run the few locos I have occasionally . I ran it today and it ran very slowly. I assume it was replaced with a MM decoder. If I was to replace it with a more expensive decoder would it improve the performance?. If so, any tips on which on. All my other locos run fine. Thanks, Controller.

Thanks Broithe, Showed it to the people in Trix. They say it is not one of theirs. Perhaps it is just a cheap import. I will keep looking. Controller.

Hi Burnthebox, I agree with you 100%. I will get the old girl back on the road as soon as I can . Thanks. Controller.

Hi Broithe, Sorry about this, but you are going to have to help me out here, and tell me what a Trix is.

Hi Mayner, Thanks for all your advice. No there are no names or numbers anywhere on the loco . It has no working parts inside. I have fitted a dcc headlight. I got the loco from a workmate about forty years ago. I have seen the 4m92 Universal Adjustable coupling rod on the Alan Gibson site, and have been in touch with them by e-mail. That might work. It would be good to see the old girl up and running again. Thanks again. Controller.

Sorry about that Burnthebox, I will try again (fingers crossed).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]19851[/ATTACH] Thanks GSR 800, I have attached a photo of the old loco I mentioned. As you can see, it has no rods at all. Would you be able to tell me which rods I need to attach to the wheels, piston etc. I have seen parts on Alan Gibson site but I am unsure which parts to order. The wheels are 24mm+24mm apart , oo gauge.

Hi, On my hst 125 I have a Ringfield motor in the dummy car as well as the control car. Problem is, one of the motors is a five pole, and runs faster than the other one, which is a three pole. Is there a way I can programme the decoders to make the motors run at the same speed, or will I have to change one of the motors. I am using a Hornby Select . Also, can someone tell me the difference between a drive rod and a connecting (control) rod on a steam loco. I have an old steam loco which has none of the latter, and I want to be sure I am ordering the right parts. Regards, Controller.

Hi all, I have a hst 125 with control car, dummy car, and three coaches. I hope to add more coaches. I have the directional lights on the control and dummy cars working ok, but I would like to light the coaches using an extra decoder in the dummy car. Would one decoder be enough for four or more coaches, or would I need one for each coach?. I am using about six leds per coach. Thanks, Controller.

Hi , I agree with you , DCC is the best way to go. I do not have a permanent layout, so I would have to connect and disconnect the coaches each time I wanted to set it up. I do not do this too often, so this is not a problem. Would one good decoder be strong enough to light four or more coaches, and would I still need resistors and capacitors or would the decoder carry out these functions?. I have had a look at wired couplers at Dcc Supplies and they seem to best solution (if a little bit expensive £9.91). Thanks, Joe

Hi, I am lighting some hst 125 coaches. I am using pick-up from the wheels, with springs I have collected from old pens. I have used this idea before, and it works ok. What I would like to know is, should I be using a resistor from the bridge rectifier to the capacitor, or, just after it to the leds?. Also can anyone tell me the correct strength of the capacitor, bridge rectifier, and resistors I should be using. I am using dcc. Thanks, Controller.

Thanks Eoin, I have been on to Alan Gibson and the smallest links they have are 24+24mm. I am thinking of changing the distance between the wheels to 24+24 to suit the links. It might be possible. Thanks for the idea about the washers and the ' Broach'. Joe.