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NirateGoel

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About NirateGoel

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  1. Having read through some of it, then skimmed the rest it doesn't seem to answer much. He mentioned that electronically they had bad electrical performance, but didn't explain. Nor did he mention anything about being bad for modern motors. I've only found the one result with that search to a RMweb page. I only read about 2 pages of it but it seems like the Duette is safe to use on modern motors without damage, just that there's poor speed control on low resistance.
  2. Well it is, I disconnected both drive shafts to try narrow it down. Hence why it sounds like that. Above will be edited to include that information.
  3. Here's an new audio snippet, in the order cab forward, bonnet forward and cab forward again. The best option at this point appears to be to contact Murphy Models as suggested above. Thanks all for the help and suggestions. Copy of Monday at 15-57.mp3 Edit: both drive shafts were disconnected to record the audio. Drive chain is not the issue.
  4. MM0134 (IE edition not MMP134), however I doubt which one makes any difference. Maybe, but I haven't found anything to indicate that it is bad for today's motors, only that they'll be fast off the mark and won't have the full strength of the motor. If anything it seems to be slightly better having the waste heat in the controller instead. Only issue I can find is the rheostat will wear over time.
  5. It's hard to keep the phone close enough for it to pick up the sound with the loco running. I'll try get it to work on the Rolling Road (I've only a Hornby one with 3 sets of rollers) at some point tomorrow. I can't listen to the whine anymore today. I'm still not 100% convinced it's mechanical, given it's coil whine like sound. But motors are not something I'm well versed in. I'll try open it, provided it's not too resistant, I don't want to cause any more damage.
  6. It was, however it was not the issue. I had even run another 121 in prior without any issue. I haven't had any issue with it in the past. I was unaware there was any issue with the controller. It functions grand, just using the high/low resistance switch. I don't touch the half way switch as it seems to cause the motors rather noisy and unhappy sounding. So what's the issue with the Duette if it's using the right control method? I might do, depending on their control types. From my quick research PWM seems to be the loudest of the 3 main methods. I did have a qu
  7. No, It isn't I'll give it a go round bonnet first for maybe 20 see if it improves. If it doesn't I'll give Murphy Models a contact see if they can offer any solutions.
  8. Having given it about 40 minutes extra running cab first the whine has only worsened, and is now faintly audible in the bonnet first direction.
  9. I might try that, I wanted to check lest I cause damage by doing so. I'll report back if it persists. Though I'm somewhat doubtful it's the drive train as it sounds more like coil whine, but I'm happy to be proven wrong. No issues that I can see not that I'd notice without comparing, just adding it on the off chance it was related. I'm not familiar enough with the circuit board layout to tell what they're for. The blacked out traces makes it difficult to tell if they should be connected or not.
  10. I'm just wondering if I should be concerned about a high pitched whining that my 121 has started making. It only occurs running cab first. 121 high pitch whine.mp3 It was in the middle of running in cab first when the high pitch whining began. It was running in on a H&M Duette but also occurs when run with a HM 2000. There also appears to be a short between two capacitors. C7&C8.
  11. Thanks all for your advice and suggestions. I'll probably go for the Fairburn, while the middle cab windows are missing it would take the least work to get something I'd be happy with. It feels most like a WT to me.
  12. What would be the best RTR 00 gauge loco to use as a basis to convert to a WT tank? Where would be the best place to get transfers and preferably etched plates? Thanks .
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