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irishthump

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About irishthump

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  1. Kingsbridge - workbench

    I have some 90% iso which is the same stuff they mention in MR. It doesn’t damage plastic but will strip acrylic paint from models if you soak them.
  2. Kingsbridge - workbench

    It’s odd, I’ve read a lot of articles in Model Railroader where they describe thinning their acrylic paints with alcohol. Obviously their popular brands don’t give them trouble but I find that Vallejo and Games Workshop acrylics turn to a gritty sludge...
  3. Kingsbridge - workbench

    One thing about surgical spirits/isopropyl alcohol. I’ve noticed that it can cause a funny reaction with certain brands of acrylic paints where the paint clumps and clogs the brush like bejeezus.
  4. Kingsbridge - workbench

    That little spanner they include with the airbrush should carry a health warning! You may need to use it to remove the spray tip, but nothing more than finger pressure should be enough to secure it. The threads are too easily stripped regardless of the quality of the brush.
  5. Kingsbridge - workbench

    These generic airbrushes all suffer from the same issue: poor finish due to there low cost. They look the part but rough internal finishing, coarse screw threads and poorly fitting parts let them down. Like I said they are fine for spraying a general coat of paint but can't cope with finer work. I've relegated mine to spraying coats of auto primer on models.
  6. Kingsbridge - workbench

    No it doesn't have a trigger limiter, but to be honest that's not really an issue.
  7. Kingsbridge - workbench

    The old adage of “you get what you pay for” really does apply here. Lots of people get could results with the cheaper models (myself included) but I got increasingly frustrated with problems with cleaning and paint drying during painting and clogging the brush. By the way I also have a badger single action brush which give far less trouble. I ended up getting an Iwata Neo and it was a great investment. Careful cleaning is still essential but I have far less issues.
  8. Luas Breakdown

    I rarely use the Luas myself but it's an excellent service, and if it reduces congestion in the city then more power to it. But until the public transport system is of an appropriate standard I think the removal of cars from the city is a pipe dream at the moment and not something I'd like to see to be honest. There's a small percentage who will want/need to drive there own cars for work or whatever purposes.
  9. Kingsbridge - workbench

    Noel, am I right in assuming these are budget airbrushes? If so then cleaning is even more important. The cheaper models, while serviceable, tend to not be as well finished as more expensive models. This becomes a problem as the roughter finish on internal parts makes it much easier for paint to accumulate and harden. I have a couple of cheaper brushes that came with my compressor and while they work ok they are a bi*ch to keep clean and are really only suitable for applying coats when respraying. They're not good for detail work. As Eoin said, cellulose thinners is yer only man for cleaning away paint deposits and sometimes an overnight soak is the only way to get it completely clean.
  10. Happy Christmas to all IRM.comers

    Not around as much lately but Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to one and all.....
  11. Silverfox - New Irish Coach releases

    Or maybe they could just treat us to a look at their own scratch-building/modifying skills?
  12. Guys, Some of the other members expressed an interest in seeing the new Full Throttle features from ESU in action. I've finally got around to putting together a short video which will hopefully give you an idea of how they work. I'll just describe the main features, all of which can be assigned to any function key you want. Drive Hold - When activated this locks the speed of the loco at whatever speed the loco was moving when the function key is pressed allowing the engine sound to be increased or decreased without affecting the speed of the loco. If this is activated while the loco is stationary it will remain stationary no matter how high the throttle is increased; very useful to simulate starting a heavy train. Brake - if this is activated when the loco is moving it brings the loco to a stop as well as triggering the sound of the brakes being "set" to the on position. The engine sound will also drop when the brake is applied even if the throttle is not adjusted. When the brakes are released there is a hiss of air before the loco moves off. Coast - When activated this drops the engine sound to idle and allows the speed of the loco to be controlled with the throttle. Run 8 - When activated this sends the engine sound directly to notch 8, again to simulate starting a heavy train. To be honest I don't use Coast or Run 8 much as I find you can produce the same effects with Drive Hold and Brake. One other thing to mention is that the engine sounds respond VERY quickly to throttle changes which makes for very realistic driving. Anyway here's the short video of 182 shunting a rake of MK3's on my layout. The decoder is loaded with the prototypical EMD 645 soundfile which sounds great. Hope that's of some use to you guys. I'll try and post some more in depth videos if anybody wants them.
  13. Looks dreadful..... http://http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-36774059
  14. Folks, Haven't been doing much as railway related modelling lately but I have been busy with some of my wargaming miniatures. Same cr*p, different scale as my wife likes to point out! Here's a batch of WW2 American and German tanks in 1/100 or 15mm scale. A platoon of 4 Shermans, M4A3's to be exact. A German Panther and Tiger...
  15. A Class marker lights.

    Guys, How many rear facing red marker lights did the A class have? There seem to be 2 pairs of light housings on each end of the loco but any photos I've seen only show one red marker (the same as the 141/181/071's) and two white when running forward. Specifically referring to Supertrain era locos here. Cheers,
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