Glenderg

Lol, your mixing method is unorthodox! Why not make up a jar of what you need? Perfect mix is the 1 second drop test. If the blob of paint hangs and then drops, within a second, that's the right blend. Too fast, or too slow, and something will break.

If you go too high up the tumblehome with weathering, you can always use white spirit on a make up sponge to draw some off, and leave the jagged lines of muck you see. It's and endless challenge though.

Have fun.

R.

edit - wait until you discover washes.....

In fairness to Hornby, they appear to be getting their act together after a few years on the decline. If you consider the amount of tooling alone that's in their stock, and how much of it belongs to airfix, tri-ang, Lima, and their own 80's range, there's an enormous financial undertaking to bring those cheap and cheerful sets up to what's expected. The other fact is that the UK market isn't at the races at all, and is some way behind their European counterparts in what they produce.

This loco for instance, the French A Class (!) - look at the detail, and look at the price on the next page. https://www.reynaulds.com/news/111.aspx

Somewhere between $8,000 and $40,000....

Plastic wheels should only be replaced if the following occurs:

Running quality like derailments take place often

Dirt is transferred to the rail head causing electrical interference.

They were/are tooled the same as metal, even the Lima steel pizza cutter wheels with big flanges. Cleaning them usually resolves a multitude.

I'd check your stock on a case by case basis. Put a suspect wagon on the end of a long rake and if she jumps the rail, it could be either re-wheeling or additional weight required. 25g per axle is the P4 standard, but most would be happy with 15g per axle.

Where on your setup are the most failures occurring? What vintage are your points? More info would help focus on identifying the problem.

Richie.

Glenderg, I'm shocked at ye. Shocked to the pit of me stomach. The filth you do be readin' on that video thing ye have.

Innocent as charged, yer honour

Never thought I'd find myself watching a video on the "coil method" and "enlarged holes" in this day and age....

Tony,

First off, you only need to work in 2D. The 3D component is only if you want to progress to 3D Printing. Also, I don't think you'd be competing with anyone really. It's just a different material really.

I've been cutting styrene overlays for coach sides and scratchbuilding for years and the lowest thickness which can be used is 0.25mm, though you could probably go up to 0.4mm in some circumstances. The issue is that laser cutters tend to burn styrene unless you have a machine that can be throttled down on power and speed. I use a Thyme Graphics Silver Bullet Pro which is a bladed cutter, rather than laser. Just a smattering of projects on the workbench -

Apologies for potato quality

There's a very interesting thread on same here on RMWeb - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/108310-darkly-labs-emblaser-affordable-laser-cutter-review/page-30, particularly where it talks about health risks with the fumes, minimum thickness being 1.5mm and so on.

I'd experiment like mad if you have the facilities, and try a host of materials - perspex, styrene, whatever you can source, and let the results dictate what's possible. I'm keen to get a laser cutter at some stage of 2017, and would be delighted to hear your musings/results.

Richie.

In lieu of that GSR, the answer is 1mm White lining. Phoenix Precision paint for the Tan and Supertrain,

.. and if another person quotes the quite wrong Ral 2011 from Vinny Byrne, I'll beat him with a wet fish.

Glad we could help.....?!?!?!?!

We're in the process of trademarking a "clag" system. Alas, it requires Turf and a bizarre Burner apparatus. I've already said too much.....

No mention of rotating axle boxes or real springs on the bogies, with full compensation, 2.1 surround sound, not to mention the rotating driver to match direction of travel. Think you need to have a word with that Interesting and Revolutionary Manufacturer

Ooooh, know the feeling. I got this 3M stuff that is like fixative spray, but is designed to be permanent rather than adjustable, and even though it takes forever to get the cut sheet off the carrier, there's no "finger vs rollers vs blade" dance that I've had to put up with before just using the carrier sheets factory "sticky".

Bit of cleaning with ***** spirits afterward, and it's fine.

I can visualise what you're at with the earbuds, and the risk averse in me says "no"! Sounds frustrating and intense, but the results prove it's worth it!

Rich

Kieran,

What material are you using, and where are you getting it from? Haven't had much success with the hairdryer and my plastic, and have been using the oven instead to achieve hit and miss results.

Missus not impressed, incidentally.

R.

Lovely stuff Eoin, great to see this type of stuff happening

Does the Cameo have an overcut setting and an allowance for blade offset? It seems they might be too low as it's taking the corners for some of those windows a bit too soon and rounding them off? Maybe go to 0.25mm styrene, even?

Then again, two foot rule

R.

edit - what jig or alchemy allowed you to cut earbud shanks in half?

Joe,

Which livery are you looking to do?

Supertrain or the later tippex livery with the twin white stripes?

I've used Ali-express to buy 200 empty vallejo type paint bottles for $20, free postage. Great idea at the time, until a bin bag full of the things arrived a month later. Just check on the Bay first or Amazon, just make sure you are getting a bargain. R.

The cement bubble has been designed to match prototype, the one we surveyed in detail. That means it's as wide as CIE designed.

We don't compromise on scale and accuracy.

R.

From what I've read, the track is 80 Lbs/yard as opposed to the heavier 120 variety for mainline. I've added the profile to the library, and in scale it works out at .65 inches high. Atlas code 65 true track would be the stuff you'll need, I reckon.

edit* but is it worth the hassle of fitting N gauge track, wheel clearances, tread depth for a measly 0.2mm when code 75 wouldn't be seen by a blind man?

Have a read of this post, has a lot of info on MGWR rail geo patterns.

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/484-gswr-101?p=6290&viewfull=1#post6290

Without dimensions and decent photographs, and/or a cross-sectional drawing or photo, it's almost impossible to compare to a code of rail.

Have you got any measurements? R

Yes, Glenderg, that would be right. I would always repeat, though, that I have nothing but admiration for all involved in voluntary work on these restoration projects, and the ITG's work on old diesels is exemplary.

 

The roundel on G617 was hand painted, rather than being an actual transfer.

Fully agreed JB. I spent a day there not so long ago, and they couldn't have been more generous with their time, or war stories Next time I'm up, I'll bring a colour chart!

 

1. The diesels (except G611), though the orange on A39 is the later shade from "Supertrain" times; the original was a bit duller or more brownish.

On A39 there is original supertrain/tan orange underneath the skirt but it doesn't appear to match what's on her now. The roundel on G617 is the lighter MK3/tippex shade of orange.

Signal Cabin surely?

It was late - "signal cabin" it is

Enniscorthyman has asked me to post this on his behalf.

You'll find the above, and a host of other useful components here - > http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php

R.