wiggy

Should have them ready by end of next week or a little sooner as per email. Wiggy.

Just got my replacement chips back and everything seams to be working OK at the moment. Just messing with the braking and acceleration settings to get it more realistic. Also received 2 sound chips, have fitted them and they seam to be OK to. Seam to have different cv settings for braking and acceleration than the none sound. Think they are different makes anyway. All good fun. Will have a video up later next week with a little something special. Wiggy.

Thanks for that Irishrailwayman. I must be confused (its not hard for that to happen). I thought that both the sound and none sound where Zimo. I'm not into a lot of CV changing and most of the CV's you mention i do not recognise, in fact all but CV 8 I don't recognise. I use a Lenz controller and the info that came with the old loksound v3.5 booklet (soundguy class 141/181)I think dose not go that far up the scale. I will have to try and get into CV's when I am feeling adventures. Thanks for the info any way. The replacement chips are on the way back to me so I will see what happens when I fit them. Regards, Wiggy.

Check out this link on the forum volume 13 http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/forumdisplay.php/43-Wheeltappers-Videos Will send you a pm also. Wiggy.

Things have taken a step further. If I put the blanking chip back in and run in analog all the lights(except cab)work so the circuits must be working ok. I then remembered that I have an ESU decoder tester so I tested the Zimo chip and I get the faults showing up on the tester which points back to a faulty chip. So I have sent the chips back and we will see what happens from there.(unless someone has already gone down this route) Let me know. Ta, Wiggy.

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Don't think the LED's are blown there just very very dim, or may be thats what there like when they are blown. End of the day very disappointing. Have emailed MM but just get the automated fob off message. Wiggy.

To be honest I think that they are to loud but what are we comparing it with.

Do you mean like this. The orange does not show up very well on the video and the white stripe is thicker and the red at the end is more red than the original maroon. Wiring is so simple. Red & Black for 16v feed. 2 Yellow wires you connect together via a push to make switch to change the signal. Each time you press the switch the signal changes. DO NOT join the 2 Yellows together through an on/off switch. Wiggy.

Ho dear what a shame. £130+ for a loco and the lights don't work. Driving back from Coventry and thought about the little switch under the chassis under the bogie, what does that do or not. ?? What about the CV settings anybody know.?? Thanks, Wiggy.

Just started to chip my MM 201's. I've 2 sound chips on order and just received 2 normal MM004 chips. I assume these chips are Zimo chips.?? After installing the 2 chips into the 201's I am getting the following problems. I am using a Lenz system. When I press F0 nothing happens except that 1 loco has the head lights on all times and flickers while stationary in all functions. When I press F1 in one direction the marker lights come on then go straight off again but if I change direction then they seam to work ok. (Both locos) When I press F2 the head lights and marker lights both come on then go straight off again but again seam to work OK in the other direction.(both locos) When I press F3 & F4 the cab lights work OK on one loco and very very dim on the other loco. Any one have any ideas. Also are the CV settings (braking, acceleration, speed settings etc.) the same as the Loksound as there are no instructions with the chip as to what CV's do what. Not very impressed so far hope the sound ones are OK. Wiggy.