Glenderg Posted November 16, 2012 Posted November 16, 2012 As promised earlier.....P & T Telephone Box - Cast Concrete and Timber version. Here are the drawings. They are at 600 DPI so a bit big size wise - 3.6 MB P & T Telephone Box Drawings Please note the copyright, I'm not messin. Sort of Instructions. When printing this off from Adobe Reader or Acrobat, make sure it's not printed to fit the A4 page, but at 100% so you get true scale. If you can get hold of 160gsm paper/card that most desktop printers will take all the better. 230gsm is ideal but not suitable for all printers. There are no instructions included. Simply cut out the outlines, and score where the red marks are shown. For the main piece, score the side walls, and fold into a box shape. Remove and stick the "telephone panel" to the inside and using paint or a marker darken the floor according to your recollection/experiences therein. Thank you Seamus for that tip. For windows, the easiest way is to put a piece of white insulating tape on a sheet of glass, and using a steel rule, cut fine lines of tape, approx .5mm or less. Using a sheet of acetate or spare transparent plastic, stick it down over the section that says "Window Mullion Template". Using your wife's tweezers, carefully lay the insulation tape strips vertically then horizontally to match the drawing leaving plenty excess. Once complete, snip off the excess "window frames" with a scalpel using downward force. Carefully remove the "glass panels" with a scissors. A scalpel will move the mullions. Adjust the mullions with tweezers. I haven't figured of a way to lock insulation tape window frames in place, because I don't use this method, but I'd imagine Plastic Magic would work? Cut out the roof panels as single pieces and fold over on each other to create a stack. 3 squares should be stacked 3 high etc. When stacked glue together and when dry, trim the outer edges with a scalpel. It should look like plasticard when done. Repeat this for the other 3 pieces, and assemble on top of each other. When done, glue to top of phone box. Lastly, the green wrap at the top needs the inner white rectangles removed, then scored as indicated, then glued to the top of the telephone box so the "Telefon" text shows through. Having a green marker or pencil to camouflage the joints would help here. Once ready to stick, make sure the joint is at the back of the phone box, or wherever it will not be seen on your layout. Repeat the same process for the charcoal grey wrap at the bottom to complete the main part. The panel with the door is separate and goes on last to allow you to have it slightly ajar etc. There is a door frame that may be added but only a sadomasochist like me would add it. It's not essential from 2 feet away. It's delicate work, but it pays off. Now give your wife her tweezers back. This is a prototype, don't give me stick or caliper measurements to adjust it. I'm just trying to give back a little. If you want one with different colours, shout. Let me know if ye need photos of the stages, and I'll post em up. Richie. 1 Quote
Garfield Posted November 16, 2012 Posted November 16, 2012 Brilliant, Richie! What kind of printer do you recommend to print out your sheets? Inkjet or laser? Quote
Glenderg Posted November 16, 2012 Author Posted November 16, 2012 Brilliant, Richie! What kind of printer do you recommend to print out your sheets? Inkjet or laser? Forgettin the basics Richie! Inkjet all the way, and if you have a rear feed inkjet printer, the photo paper types, it will take heavier card. Quote
Garfield Posted November 16, 2012 Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) Forgettin the basics Richie! Inkjet all the way, and if you have a rear feed inkjet printer, the photo paper types, it will take heavier card. Cheers! PS: Love the no-nonsense copyright notice! Edit: Here's a photo from the National Library of two P&T telephone boxes being installed in the 1930s - Edited November 16, 2012 by Garfield Quote
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