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Horsetan

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Posts posted by Horsetan

  1. 6 hours ago, DJ Dangerous said:

    ....White Grease:

    "A tube of grease for model train servicing, ideal for improving slow or noisy models, a small amount can be applied to bearings, gears and drive shafts to maintain smooth running of the loco. It’s safe for plastic and metal gears and won’t dry out either."

    Grease:

    "A tube of grease for model train servicing, ideal for improving slow or noisy models, a small amount can be applied to bearings, gears and drive shafts to maintain smooth running of the loco. It’s safe for plastic and metal gears and won’t dry out either."

    Grease is the word.

    • Funny 1
  2. On 8/8/2023 at 10:39 AM, leslie10646 said:

    I believe I had seen this strange beast before and it seems a pretty nutty idea - but if you've been to the Swiss Transport Museum in Luzern, you'll see the staggering complexity of the earlier Swiss electric locos and railcars.

    Maybe Peter Scott of the RPSI should make No.105 with a pantograph for when the main lines in Ireland are electrified? Personally, I favoured a small small nuclear reactor - no shortage of steam!

    I was last in Luzern in 2006, and still haven't quite worked out how Buchli drive actually works.

    Maybe some madmen might try to recreate the LMS Turbomotive in full size....

    • Like 1
  3. 3 hours ago, Broithe said:

     

    I'm curious as to why there aren't additional CCTV/ANPR cameras situated on the road approaches to each crossing. Then you'd at least have a chance of working out who the eejits at the wheel are. Currently they all seem to be getting off scot-free when they shouldn't even be behind the wheel.

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  4. 2 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

    Many thanks for this. Found the 4 clips but  there seems to be a clip at each end of the baseplate as well. and I can’t for the life of me see how they unclip. ....

    The ends only need to be prised upwards as the side clips are being released. 

  5. On 26/7/2023 at 1:37 PM, Irishswissernie said:

    2 JG Dewing views at Stranorlar May 1959 Railcars 14 & 10

    CDRJC 1959-05-xx Sranorlar Railcar 14 JGDxxxxxx CDRJC 1959-05-12 Stranorlar Railcar 10 JGD

     

    Interesting to see the Glenties line starter mounted on the bridge - the cable wheel and vertical cable run still visible on the footbridge wall. The arm does have a bit of a droop, suggesting that tension has been lost....

    I think the starter signal is still in existence today, exhibited inside the Talyllyn Railway museum at Tywyn.

    • Like 1
  6. On 18/7/2023 at 11:21 PM, jhb171achill said:

    Call me an oul cynic; but I'll believe ANY reopening when I see it. They've been prattling on about all manner of reopenings, and freight hubs and the like for decades.

    Successive governments, of ALL political parties north and south have not looked forward to plan anything for their grandchildren probably ever. It's all about what gets them the next election; and idle talk and soundbites do that just fine.

    One thing they're all good at is kicking the can down the road....

    • Like 2
  7. 3 hours ago, DJ Dangerous said:

     

    What was the overall goal? To have shallower flanges for running on lower profile rail?

    With twelve wheels to practice turning down, one should have it down to a fine art for the next loco?

    Can the wheels be turned down without a lathe? Ie in a drill?

    Scale flanges on scale rail, at the right gauge, are generally an improvement.

    Some people in the past have managed to turn down flanges just by using a file with the wheel mounted in an ordinary drill, but I'd suspect the results might be a bit inconsistent unless you're careful to constantly measure whilst the work is underway. 

    • Like 1
  8. 7 hours ago, leslie10646 said:

    Ah, a new form of "Whispering Death" which is what PW men called the (lovely) Wessex Electrics (Class 441) on the LSWR - you see the motors were in the middle car (of five) only - so if they were coming towards you (at 100mph) you heard nothing, until you heard the words from St Peter "Name please?" .......

    You'll still get the tell-tale "chirrup" in the rails as the train approaches.

    • Funny 4
  9. On 18/6/2023 at 9:21 AM, BosKonay said:

    We’re finally out the far side of pandemic and war induced delays and shortages (he says while glancing at the road ahead in hope!)

    ....until the next overseas government biological "experiment"....

  10. 10 hours ago, jhb171achill said:

    I always had this idea of doing a UTA / early NIR layout if a RTR AEC set ever appears; and on one side of the railway I would have a gable wall covered in hardcore republican graffiti, and on the other something covered in hardcore loyalist graffiti! All the clichés in one...... RUC vans, young lads with petrol bombs, British army jeeps, the works.......while a 2.6.4T (real!) Jeep made its way past with a ballast train, and an AEC set pottered through in the other direction on the 11:15 to Londonportadown.....

    You could have a newsagent selling the "Portadown News" 😂

    • Funny 2
  11. Forgot to conclude: the above leaves you with twelve surplus "A" wheels, which make ideal practice pieces if you're learning how to use a lathe. Turn them to P4 profile so you have spares.

    Also, six spare P4 axles with Deltic gears on them...

    ....and an invalidated IRM warranty. 

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  12. I'd been thinking about the "A" regauge to 21mm (P4 profile) for a while. IRM's wheel diameter comes out at 12.7mm (3'2") and I had thought there was no directly suitable wheel on the market.

    It turns out that the answer was staring me in the face all the time, because Accurascale's P4 wheel pack for their recent Deltic/Class 55 is practically the same diameter, registering 12.66mm on the calipers. This is undersized for a Deltic (they actually ran on 3'7" wheels - 14.66mm) but Accurascale's compromise actually helps us here.

    Although the Deltic wheel has two small holes at 180⁰ to each other and a slightly different dish to the front face, it's still eminently usable for this quick 'n dirty job.

    Since both types of wheel are fully insulated only at the hub, that means there won't be much of a problem with pickup, since the collectors only need to extend to touch the backs of the new wheels.

    Off with the "A" bogie sideframes:

    20230702_155254.thumb.jpg.80d462c03b35ec3ee7506f04581da3bb.jpg

    ...exposing the extended axle ends, and then unclip the baseplate:

    20230702_155520.thumb.jpg.574621465fa63b50ce8c2a5540bce675.jpg

    Fish out the leading axle - on A39r, this is the one with nearside speedo drive, so that has a tiny end instead of a rotating cover.

    Compare with the Deltic wheelset:

    20230702_155633.thumb.jpg.e2f56e77a27570bece3ae391842f899a.jpg

    20230702_155929.thumb.jpg.bf109e08010cbf856cb0c171a919d961.jpg

    20230702_155749.thumb.jpg.c7dfe3be9f3038c81eafa221b85bb097.jpg

    There's not a lot in it between the "A" and the Deltic:

    20230702_155844.thumb.jpg.20e1b9e5b839add647e5d8c43428efb6.jpg

    To remove the wheels from their axles, all that's needed is to grip and gently twist each wheel anticlockwise, as if unscrewing a fine-pitch bolt. As long as the wheel is kept straight, no damage to the insulating bush should occur and you should not end up with wobbly wheels. DO NOT remove the brass bearings from the axle. 

    This is what we end up with:

    20230702_160402.thumb.jpg.7aa2380618d07ab5b9318746249743c1.jpg

    As the Haynes Book Of Lies says, "refitting is the reverse of removal" - the Deltic wheels are mounted on the "A" axles, again going carefully, twisting clockwise as you press the wheel along. A decent indication of when to stop is when you see just the merest glint of silver appear in front of the wheel hub.

    We need to have an Irish back-to-back gauge handy, giving a back-to-back measurement of 19.67mm. These are available from the Scalefour Society Stores and are not terribly priced:

    20230702_160717.thumb.jpg.f9cb92ab8ac077c45fae12bcd71b58fe.jpg

    Incidentally, you could adjust to 19.87mm back-to-back if working in "dead scale", in the same way that I use 17.87mm for dead scale British standard gauge.

    The measurement over the outside face of the Deltic rim should come out at around 23.9mm.

    20230702_160751.thumb.jpg.e47941f761ae23cffa1ee8950f781ee1.jpg

    Now see the difference in gauge:

    20230702_160839.thumb.jpg.e65829c6e4e36151b96c32184e7e1162.jpg

    That should provide a suitable spur to finish the others:

    20230702_161848.thumb.jpg.18cb2c67c13c927282d55703db080cf2.jpg

    Now is the time to bend the pickups outwards to match the wider gauge. They must be able to touch the backs of the new wheels:

    20230702_162003.thumb.jpg.785944cc4acb6732231d559f6fd8f5d9.jpg

    Insert the regauged wheelsets, with the brass bearings clicking into their original places:

    20230702_161755.thumb.jpg.7acd6253f21de827a48fd4611dfb0147.jpg

    20230702_162455.thumb.jpg.f3a3e3b8d776bfd32fa00da146d26c70.jpg

    Clip the bogie baseplate back on,  push the outside frames back in, and the job is done:

    20230702_162852.thumb.jpg.07b15ca24ff9accb26e83d9e9ddc588d.jpg

    Now repeat all the above for the other bogie:

    20230702_170020.thumb.jpg.b1fb89b75fbe5556a2a2ad3aa1ac73a1.jpg

    This can be achieved in about 40 minutes, plus up to thirty quid for the Accurascale Deltic P4 pack (cheaper on eBay if you play your cards right).

    End result just looks right:

    20230702_172351.thumb.jpg.467dea71087c537e3ef645c5e570c73e.jpg

    • Like 7
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