irishthump

9 minutes ago, JasonB said:

Good stuff. They're a fantastic wagon. I'm sure it won't be long before you have them weathered up   

I've a huge backlog of stuff to be weathered, but I think a couple of these will be bumped to the top of the queue!

Oh and I almost forgot! It was a VERY merry Christmas.......

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to one and all.

OK I'm officially tempted!

For what it's worth, Ivory with CIE roundel.

Weathered a couple of Lima Mk2's over the weekend. Although their obviously not the most detailed models they can be made to look pretty presentable and they run very well.

Weathering was mainly enamel washes with a little dusting of the underframe and bogies with the airbrush.

I view it on my laptop and I don't feel it's a great hardship to close the ad when it pops up. Remember, if you don't have to pay to keep something running then you should be able to accept a slight inconvenience. 

On 17/11/2022 at 3:37 PM, gm171 kk said:

It's soaking in 99% IPA (at least that's what it was sold as) since last Tuesday. I'm surprised at how slow and ineffective it was compared to other people's experience. It stripped metal components better but it took time. 

What model is it? Different manufacturers need different chemicals to strip the paint.

8 minutes ago, murphaph said:

That's very nicely done. The mottling especially.

That was done by giving the model a coat of Testor's Dullcote then airbrushing a coat of a grimy brown mix of Tamiya paint. When that is touch dry, use a soft brush moistened with 50/50 IPA and water and start to remove the paint in downward strokes. The mottling occurs when the Dullcote reacts with the IPA.

Piko tanker wagon….

Here’s a couple of extra pics as I’d forgotten to add the buffer grease!

German “U Boat”,  a Piko BR 119. 
This one was crying out to be grunged up! Hopefully I didn’t overdo it…

7 minutes ago, murphaph said:

The Eal is an open high sided wagon. Typical loads would be scrap metal, coal, aggregates. Even finished steel I think. 

Thanks for that. Scrap metal loads are always fun to make!

More filthy goodness!

These are a couple of HO German wagons. 
 

By the way, does anybody know what type of load would typically be carried in the wagon shown in the last picture?

A little weathering….

Did the first of my 42’ flats and a 20’ container.

Wow! They are really good.

19 minutes ago, MauriceJ said:

Cheers yea I agree on that, i’m really liking this 20cylinder file, it has a low idle that sounds very cool:

http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/search?cat=2&q=75407

I have a Lokprogrammer on order from Germany.. Getting a grip of the software for now.

Congrats on taking the plunge! It was one of the best investments I ever made, it gives you so much flexability. You can even order the sound files from places like Wheeltappers and load them to the decoders yourself if you like.

It's great that you can download the software for free and try it before you even buy the programmer. It's not to hard to get to grips with the basics. If  I can help at all just message me, I'm based in Dublin as well.

Have joined ESU IO group? It's a great resource for information.

https://groups.io/g/Loksound

On 14/10/2022 at 10:35 AM, MauriceJ said:

Cheers, yea I do have a wheeltappers chip in my MM 112, and i’m very happy with that. I’ve been trawling through ESU sound files, and I recon most 071 ESU chips are based off this prime mover sound: http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/search?q=S0809

Correct me if i’m wrong on that..

I can’t find any files with the exact 071 prime mover 645E3C, but I think this one is pretty close:

http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/search?q=S0539

 

There are a couple of 645 files that are suitable for the 071 which are the 12 cylinder version, but to be honest you can use the 16 cylinder versions as well. It would very difficult to tell the difference sound-wise in 00 scale models. 

You can also use the same file in multiple models and subtly change the sound of each one with certain settings on the Lokprogrammer.

On 14/10/2022 at 9:36 AM, murrayec said:

Wheeltappers do a version of the 071 sounds based on the ESU chip, if one is going to use the Locprogrammer it is best to stick with compatable sound chips- ESU, the Zimo chip system has it's own programmer and most likely it's own convention for programming so may not be compatable with the Locprogrammer. Most sound chip manufacturs have their own programming systems and are not cross compatable?

The Wheeltapper's chip is £133.00 and would be the best starting point if going for ESU, the chip is already programmed so that helps.

The pitch of the sound is mainly down to the type of speaker or speakers used, big base speakers are best but will require more fettling to the model........

Eoin

 

Jesus, £133? Factor in the exchange rate and possible import duty and that could get expensive very quickly!

Blank Loksound decoders are available for €100 from Germany.

On 13/10/2022 at 4:13 PM, MauriceJ said:

Thanks, yeah I have an old laptop somewhere that should do the job.. I have a Murphy’s chip that i’d like to change engine sound, are they locked, or can you re blow them?

The ESU software will run an pretty much any old windows PC without any issues.

The any ESU decoder can be reblown with the Lokprogrammer, including the Murphy ones.

On 13/10/2022 at 8:55 AM, Horsetan said:

It seems to me that TT, pound for pound, works out more expensive than HO.... Not by much, but the price tags are still sobering. 

Oh that’s for sure. I was just looking purely at available space at home for a layout. TT would give a little extra layout in the available space.

50 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

Tillig were long time leaders in Continental TT for many years. Roco also invested millions in the scale.

Tillig make some lovely stuff. I seriously considered TT when I was getting back into the hobby, the only issue was availability.

21 hours ago, murphaph said:

No it's a trade secret. Only joking 

Bogies:

The bogies are disassembled and resprayed after applying a primer but if you're not regauging thm you might get away with not disassembling them. Not sure. Respray a dirty colour as they got filthy really with no trace of the bauxite red being visible after a short while. Then apply dark grey washes to the bogies into all the crevices and clean off the excess when dry. Then a bit of dry brushing with titanium white oil paint, very sparingly applied. Don't forget to apply sleeper grime or frame dirt to the wheels (except the running surfaces) or it will look odd.

Wagon:

Matt varnish the wagon and apply washes into all the crevices (mostly dark browns and greys, bit of rust colour wash as well but not much). Then clean off the excess when dry. Then for the rustier ones I think I applied a "powder" effect wash from AK and rust colour powders and a rusty coloured paint mix I made up. Then blast the underframe and bogies with frame dirt acrylic from the airbrush. Bit of dry brushing with the white oil paint is optional here I think. Then seal the whole lot with matt varnish again. Buffers get a bit of gloss acrylic black on the faces and the shanks (sparingly so they don't seize!).

I think that was it.

Thanks for going into detail. I really like the mixture of techniques especially washes and dry brushing (which really underrated technique that doesn't get enough love). You've struck a lovely balance and achieved an excellent finish. I don't think I've seen a better job anywhere else.

Those container flats look fantastic. Can I ask what techniques/materials you used?

On 12/9/2022 at 11:29 PM, jhb171achill said:

I would also ask a question - what's the best type of varnish to be used for rivers, streams and puddles, which looks realistic enough and can be had in suitably small quantities for layout - I don't need a five gallon drum full of the stuff.

 

Dealz sell small tins of yacht varnish that is surprisingly good.

Can I ask how you contacted him to order?