irishthump

Have a look at the Tomy Tomica range of trains. Battery powered, very robust, easy to place back on the track. Smyths usually stock them.

27 minutes ago, murphaph said:

It's all very personal alright. I don't care about misplaced sockets (maybe I should but that sort of thing just doesn't bug me) but the wrong track gauge does my head in. I have probably set myself up for a world of hurt but I have to try the 21mm route. But as Jonathon says, rule 1 always applies and the track gauge doesn't bother many people in the slightest and that's fine too I guess. We're a broad church thankfully

True. I would like to try 21mm, but the amount of extra work it would give me just rules it out. But then again, I'm type of person who  happily runs US and German HO stock alongside the Irish OO gauge. So what would I know?!!!

38 minutes ago, Galteemore said:

Irish modellers demand really high standards to maintain prototypical accuracy. I mean, it’s not like anyone would run them on track that scales out about 4’ gauge… I think we can forgive the manufacturers the odd stray marker lamp….

Yes, those same rivet counters will demand every detail be accurate then run all their stock with dirty great tension lock couplers sticking it of them.

18 minutes ago, murphaph said:

Would it really make any difference when the bogies themselves are so far apart? If all 4 left or right rail contacts are interrupted simultaneously then I would argue the problem is with the track. If a long co co (electrically a Bo Bo) stalls then what hope has a 0-4-0 on the same track?

 

Probably not much difference, unless you’re running over a long crossover or yard ladder with insulfrog points.

But it’s surprising there isn’t 6 wheel pick up. Many European HO models have unpowered centre axles but still pickup from all 6 wheel sets. Probably more to do with with them usually having friction tyres…..

On 11/12/2021 at 11:56 AM, Georgeconna said:

 

I have 201 running around there, started to stutter and stall but a quick picks ups and wheel clean job oxo lovely runner.

That’s the only niggle I ever had with the 201’s, the fact that they only pick-up power from 4 axles. The middle ones have no contact strips.

Same to you guys from a delighted customer.

16 minutes ago, JasonB said:

Your perseverance definitely paid off! They look fantastic.  

Thanks man. Yours set the bar!

20 hours ago, JasonB said:

I encountered the same problem when working on mine. I over complicated things, and ended up going around in circles on an 18 wagon rake.

The dusting you've given them with the airbrush has blended everything together very nicely. Great work. 

Yeah I found these hard work! Like yourself, I though they only looked convincing when they are really filthy with layer upon layer of grime and cement. The only way to get that effect was to apply layer upon layer of weathering! I ended using every technique I could think of....

I found the streaking effects particularly hard to get right. Removing the paint with a fibre pencil was way too aggressive. I ended up letting the Tamiya paint dry for several days before scrubbing at it with a stiff brush moistened with isopropyl. The effect is quite convincing. 

The chipping cement was done using Maskol before the paint was airbrushed on. The cement dust is REAL cement. It's as fine as any weathering powder and looks great when sealed with varnish.

Fantastic space for a layout! Looking forward to see how the helix works with the various levels planned. Personally I wouldn't be brave enough to try a helix and I think I'd just do a round the room with long gradients to any upper level(s).

Finally finished the rake of 12 cement bubbles. I wasn’t entirely happy with how thy looked; I’d deliberately tried to make each wagon unique but it didn’t quite work. So I gave the whole rake an overall coat of grey with the airbrush and it seems to be a better look.

So the 8 Taras are now finished….

55 minutes ago, Bob229 said:

Next year you will have the option to add more 201 

I’ll take it!

Wonderful work, just perfect!

15 hours ago, connollystn said:

Not a fan of the Murpby Models 201. Doesn't capture the character of the prototype due to obvious inaccuraracies. Consodering what the guys at I.R.M. did with the A class would much prefer them to do an up-to-date mode of the 201(new).

Seriously? The 201 is a very high-spec and a wonderful runner. I'd love to hear a full list of these "obvious inaccuracies".

The 201 is the only MM loco that I don't have more than one of, and I always regretted it!

47 minutes ago, minister_for_hardship said:

Tried gmail address. No reply either.

Des can be a little slow replying sometimes, but he’ll get back to you.

Lovely work there Adrian!

The baseboards and woodwork look very sharp and the concrete hardstanding on the engine shed looks spot on. really looking forward to seeing this layout progress.

6 minutes ago, BosKonay said:

The sound chip’s configured specifically to use both speakers and split the frequencies so removing one may reduce the fidelity of the sound. 

Yeah I really don't understand why Roads&Rails did this modification. Out of the box the A Class has better sound than any of my other locos, and I've tried a lot of different speakers and configurations.

It seemed to be a case of "I'm doing it because I can!"

1 hour ago, Colin R said:

To be honest I don't know as I don't have one to take apart to look at, but the locos I have recently obtained do have a far better motor in them than the good old Triang XO5 3 pole motor. Motor technology has come on leaps and bounds since I first started modelling railways.

Todays modelling is going down the DCC chip route and yet what I think puts a lot of older modeller offs from going to DCC is in fact the issue of having to change in some cases the old motor so it can work with the new DCC controllers.

I did have one loco which was converted to DCC but the motor kept running warm, it gave up in the end because it was not designed to accept a high current.   

The other issue for some is that since DCC is here to stay, there has been no development with the older DC controllers, which to my way of thinking is wrong, I am sure I read somewhere that there is a cut off point which is possible to back date older locos to DCC.

From my experiance with 009 modelling, the older Eggarbahn stuff, does not like the 1980's feedback controllers where as the newer models coming out don't like using the older style controllers.

If I was starting out again then yes I would go DCC, but since I have more than enough 00n3 locos which will run on DC I am not about to start converting them over at my age, unless I win the euro lottery of course.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the 121 has a 5 pole motor. It's getting to be standard on the new, high end RTR locos.

Good points about converting to DCC, it pretty much precludes locos of a certain vintage. But I've had success converting the old Lima pancakes and Hornby Ringfield motors to run on DCC.

35 minutes ago, Colin R said:

 

Modern locos like the class121 should have a coreless motor so a gaugemaster should be suitable for your needs.

 

I was'nt aware the 121 had a coreless motor. Are you sure that's the case?

Some weathering on a few of my cement bubbles.

Not usually, although many consider the action of the SEEP point motors to be a bit too fierce for handmade points.

Peco points are well made and pretty robust so I would'nt worry too much.

Well that was a pig of a job! Don't think I'll bother doing it with my other 071, it's not worth the hassle....

I've been using both OO and HO scale figures in my locos.

https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/71-grahams-workbench/?do=findComment&comment=165393

I used a Bachmann figure for the A Class. It's actually a track maintenance guy but he works fine. You'll most likely have to cut the legs off no matter what figure you use.

I picked up some HO gauge figures and I've been trying them in my other locos. You can see one in the 141 in that post. Again, looks fine.

Guys,

What's the process for getting the cab off of the 071 model? I've got as far as removing the main body but the cab seems reluctant to come off! Don't want to force it and snap anything. Is there a tab that needs to be freed first?