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irishthump

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Posts posted by irishthump

  1. 44 minutes ago, David Holman said:

     A bit more on the DG couplings. This is just my experience, in 7mm scale at that and there are people far more qualified and experienced than me.

     Considering that, in 7mm scale, the whole coupling measures about 7mm wide by 12mm long, the 2mm scale ones must be tiny - though these are small enough for me. Also small is the price - an etched fret for 16 costs as little as three quid, though my versions are £6.30, so that's about 50p a pair...

     The etches are nicely done too, plus you get a coil of 0.5mm phosphor bronze wire for the loops too. 

    DSCN6914.thumb.jpeg.0c5be6ef27ca0c5b83297b23b01ced13.jpeg

     As you can see, there are fold lines etched in, with two separate pieces for each coupling, plus the loop. Once the main etch is cut out [craft knife], the main cross piece is folded down [pliers], which means the middle bit now sticks up and then needs bending back about 20 degrees. This forms the coupling 'hook', while the bit just bent down is the buffing plate.

     Next job is to cut out the other, smaller, etch. This is tiny [and must be minute in 2 or 3mm scale]. It is perhaps the only issue with the DG coupling as can't help thinking a few spares could have been included on the etch to cover the ones that can ping off and get lost. Already been there and got that T-shirt...

     Anyway, this smaller etch is the 'delayed action' part of the coupling, enabling a vehicle to be uncoupled and pushed into place without reconnecting. It needs about a 45 degree bend and then is fitted into the slot in the main etch, with the two lugs tweaked outwards to hold it in place. After that, the two lugs with the round holes on the main etch are bent down as these are what the wire loop is fixed to. It all takes less time to do than read this.

     The only other thing to do is make the coupling loop. For another couple of quid, you can buy a brass block which works as a bending jig. You wrap the phosphor bronze wire around this up to 15 times to make 10mm x 7mm rectangles. Once separated, each one needs a short piece of steel wire soldering to it. This acts as the dropper wire, enabling hands free uncoupling using below track electro magnets.

    DSCN6915.thumb.jpeg.9a0a55cec96c27bd5dfcb90095d55ee4.jpeg

     Again, slightly fiddly, but you soon get into a routine. These wire loops are then sprung into the lugs of the main etch, after which the whole assembly needs to be chemically blackened with something like gun blue. All that is left is to then fit the coupling, using contact adhesive.

    DSCN6910.jpeg.8058a459ab2cf9d2d0dddfa91596131c.jpeg

     Considering the small size of these couplings, not only do they look ideal for 7mm narrow gauge, I think they would make a fine alternative to tension locks in 4mm scale, being both discreet and offering hands free uncoupling.

    Nice work. I seriously considered the DG couplings for my own stock as I wanted handsfree uncoupling but I was reluctant because of the construction involved and ended up going with Kadees for all my stock.

  2. 1 hour ago, Past-Avenue said:

    That turned out really well and it will even look better when you weather it.

    It's nice to see someone been able to finish a model that you have to look twice at it to see if it's a model or the real thing. 

    Well done Graham and thanks. 

    Enda 

    Like I said the finish on the model was excellent, it took the paint really well. 
    I’ll be honest, I was expecting a much rougher finish so I was very impressed.

    • Thanks 1
  3. Picked up one of @Past-Avenue’s lovely 3D printed 30 ton brake vans at the last Bray show.

    I opted for an unpainted version which came supplied with decals. It really is an excellent print with a very smooth finish that takes paint very well.

    I used a more of a brown bauxite colour (Tamiya XF68) which is less red than some models I’ve see but I’m happy enough with it. It will be heavily weathered anyway.

    While the decals were fine, I just couldn’t get the wasp stripes to work. Sorry Enda! So I opted for hand painting them, I think it looks ok. 
    I also removed the NEM coupler pockets. The molded ones are spot on, I just prefer to mount coupler boxes on my stock.

    The finished product, sans weathering.

     

    IMG_4402.jpeg

    • Like 14
  4. On 15/8/2025 at 7:17 AM, David Holman said:

    That looks very good. Any chance of a more detailed breakdown of construction? For example, what are the blocks that the rollers are mounted in? Daft enough as I am, to model in three gauges (21, 32 and 36.76mm), looks like there is potential to create a multi gauge rolling road using your method.

    Construction wise I simply removed two of the longer steel rods from the pot stand then used the small plastic feet to fix them to the plywood.

    I’m I used epoxy as it allowed me some time to adjust the fit of the rollers perfectly. I reckon it will hold as I don’t expect it to be subject to much force.

    I then drilled and tapped a small hole in the end of each rod to take a small set screw for attaching either wire or crocodile clips. 

    • Thanks 1
    • Informative 1
  5. On 15/8/2025 at 9:28 AM, DJ Dangerous said:

    Sorry guys, remiss of me not to give links to the parts used.

    @DJ Dangerous yes those are the items I used. Mind you Temu sell an actual complete rolling road using those rollers for €23.

    https://share.temu.com/rxlXKT2gDDA
     

    @David Holman unfortunately they only seem to sell rollers spaced for OO/HO track. I can’t imaging the kitbashing you’d need to perform to make a multi-gauge version!

    • Thanks 1
  6. On 13/8/2025 at 6:11 PM, Thomas said:

    I have a IRM "A" class locomotive. The sound chip is not responding to any commands. Checked it out and it is fried. I would like to instal a non sound decoder but to date any ones that I put in will not run the lighting correctly. It will move forwards and backwards fine and the ditch lights work. But that is it. I wonder do you have to get a decoder from IRM and if so what one? 

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    Have you considered going back to the seller with the decoder? If it was faulty they might help you out.

    • Agree 1
  7. After all these years I thought it was time I got myself a rolling road for testing locos. But damn they’re not cheap!

    But I managed to pick up a few sets of rollers from Temu for small money.

    Then I  kitbashed the rest from a steel pot stand from Ikea. 
     

    Works just fine…..

     

    IMG_4315.jpeg

    IMG_4314.jpeg

    • Like 9
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    • WOW! 1
  8. 13 minutes ago, irishmail said:

    Nowt wrong with the Hornby 50's,  I have 7 Hornby and 8 Lima 50's  plus a TT version.  Hopefully one day I will have all 50 :)  .  Extra pick ups on the Lima's and they run just a smooth as the Hornby ones.

    People like to pee on the old Lima models these days, but the truth is with proper care the motor will run forever. Plus, they had better molding and detail than other models of the time. My Lima MK2's still look OK running behind my new locos.

    • Like 4
  9. On 4/5/2025 at 2:15 AM, James Regan said:

    Thats the 145% tariff for Chinese manufactured models. Guess, i’ll be buying Trix and Roco for a while. Trump is likely to end up giving folks a grace period but I doubt it will be anything but short term. I see Hasbro and Mattel already diversifying production out of China. They see how the winds are blowing.

    Yeah but neither company is bringing any production back to the US. Hasbro production in China stands at 50% and they stated they will reduced that to 40% by 2026, hardly earth-shattering. Mattel are talking about moving some production to other countries again, not the US. They also said they would counter the tariffs by raising prices in the US. So whatever the Mango Mussolini is telling people, his tariffs are not going to have the effect he claimed they would.

    • Like 1
    • Informative 1
  10. On 2/5/2025 at 2:50 PM, James Regan said:

    Indeed… meantime your Chinese friends are building warships and nuclear missiles…whatever for? We’ll see what ‘sensible’ leaders in Europe do then? 
    https://www.cfr.org/blog/six-takeaways-pentagons-report-chinas-military

    Change is coming…

    The reason they are building warships and nuclear missiles is because other countries keep improving theirs. It's not rocket science.

    • Like 1
    • Agree 1
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