Molderman

Thanks Garfield I've just uploaded the list and far better to do it this way than to give it to ebay ! Peadair

Please see below Items I have for sale : Locos: 1 x Class 181 IR Orange 183 £120 + p&p to be advised 1 x " " 071 IE Orange 077 £125 + p&p to be advised ------------------------------------------------------ Craven Coaches: Num 1521 ST x 2 @ £40 each + p&p to be advised 1529 ST x 1 @ £40 + p&p " " " ------------------------------------------------------ RPSI Coaches: Num 1701 2A FK Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p to be advised 1702 Mk2 TSO Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p to be advised 1703 Mk2 BSO Coach x 2 @ £45 each + p&p " " " " ------------------------------------------------------ Train Sets: 1 x Class 2700 DMU boxed set complete @ £144 + p&p to be advised 1 x " " " " (Car Set only) @ £110 + p&p to be advised ------------------------------------------------------ All the above are new and boxed and once I have confirmed postage tomorrow I will update accordingly and I will do my best to get the best postage costs, and the prices stated are what I paid for them. Payment can be through Paypal with my email addy. Peadair/Molderman

Hello Guys I hope I got this right reading from Wrennaire's instructions. Been away for a few months moving home etc and just getting back to playin trains. Just letting you chaps know that Im about to put up (Once Ive Mastered Photobucket)about £1500 worth of new model locos coaches etc not needed and surplus to my requirements if any interest is there ? Molderman:banana:

Hi Nelson I got a couple of loco lamps from south east rail down here in Sussex gonna dig em out and get them up here.

Your welcome Kirley no problem and glad to be of help to you. Peadair:dig: there don't seem to be bottom to this hole ???:confused:

Just a word of advice, any of you guys out there planning to buy starter kits for resin casting for a "just like that" starter to be aware that although it may be the cheapest online etc and all you have to do is add this and that and you'll get a brilliant duberry ! Usually means that you may well mess up first time and if you do mess up it's with the whole 500 grams that you have just bought thereby you have to spend another 30 spondulas to replace what you have just lost all because of a truly misunderstanding mistake.In 40 years of working with resins castings and fibreglass the amount of guys who have said Peadair I bought this stuff and what should I do to get it right even though it's in the destructions the problem arises from not understanding the process and the chemicals in use and their character so take the time to learn if your a first timer cos we all have to start somewhere and never think that you know it all simply cos your first cast was a success, I know cos I've had some very expensive stickers and I have tons of experience cos it only takes one mistake to ruin possibly hours of work prior to moulding. But if your able to wait for my how to do series or vids or whatever you wanna call them we can have a bit of fun achieving our aim. Peadair this is hard work I tell ya !

Depends on if you want to cast in resins or plaster and what your casting but as Nelson says try Sylmasta but to begin with I would try a resin that can take a paste hardner as opposed to a liquid hardener as your hardner amount is equal to the size of a pea in quantity and will cure in bout 20 minutes otherwise you get into liquid hardner curing times extend considerabley. Idealy you want a room temp no lower than 65fah although you could go lower but then you risk condensation cure effect and by that I mean that your work may be in a very cold part of your workshop or room making waterdroplets and if this gets onto the work it turns white and this tells you that you have moisture in the air and will need to be dried and this will slow down the curing process and in some cases stop it so that your work remains tacky, and you also have to factor in color pigment for your final color and srinkage and srinkage can be avoided or reduced by using filler powders like plaster of paris. so i suggest you buy a small resin pack with paste hardner to begin with so if you mess up its only a small quantity. If your into plaster of paris then thats fairly simple and very brittle but it works. On the other hand you can hang on for couple weeks till I put up a video on how to do. There is nothing worse than producing a model to mold up only to have what we call a sticker in the trade and it then has to be put aside to start again and the frustration it causes !Heating your room ! try to avoid gas heating cos this will produce condensation everywhere need I say more ! hope this helps and sorry for the delay in replying. Peadair:dig:

Hi Guys Just to let you that once I've completed my house move I will be doing some videos at my workshop on silicon and it's uses, how to cast using resins and 2 packs and various thickners and powders and colourings and improving on basic mold shapes and a bit a fun with 3D printers although very versatile they are not the be all end all of modelling. So anybody interested watch this space. But in the meantime if your into trying your own castings and want some advice just ask. Peadair:

Yes our much hated/loved dentists wherever you live have some of the best state of the art glues and resins with superfast curing times that make the mind boggle and I use several types of resins in my workshop although it is worth noting that curing and exotherm (heat) produced by the added catalyst also causes shrinkage to some extent unless you factor this into your design and this must be allowed for if you want 99.999% perfection. 5 minute epoxy can be made soft or hard, superglues can be slow or fast depending on viscosity and if both surfaces are suitabley prepared can produce a bond which if you later try to separate will cause damage to both surfaces. Cold cure resins of the type used by the dentist do just that! they don't produce exotherm hence when the dentist fills your mouth with a load of rubbery goo which sets as a perfect replica of your teeth. So this stuff can be obtained not from your local dentist but from dental pharmacies suppliers.

If I can get there Andy, Dave, I'll come and say hello I'm only couple hours away ! Peadair

Hey Tony Did you get the pic I sent you bout bout Bowden cables etc ? Peadair

And if I can get my head around photobucket to upload then I'll show some pics of my workshop and some makeshift plans of my new layout workshop in my new garden ! Ya laughing now ya crying hoor ya ! Ehaaa Peadair

sorry I've been away for so long trying to get myself organised but once this move is over I will be back to normal (does that mean I am abnormal)? I've have a Hino truck ready for casting beer kegs A class body lots more other stuff and I will also try my hand at diy for you guys that want to know with some video tutorials n stuff although I'm very ignorant of most things on Irish Rail modelling so please make allowances for me as I'm always willing to learn, I'm also looking at the class 22000 with a view to castings so any advice there will/would be helpful and taken wrennaire advice bout 7mm construction so that's on the table also.

Just heard back from Soundtraxx in the States saying that Gaugemaster in WestSussex have their systems wherein that we can install our sound chips in there systems,so I'll be giving them a call to see if that's the case although the price of Soundtraxx is a bit steep especially when it arrives over here and Europe. Peadair

Hi Tony I would think that the closer you can get to realism and or scale the better and in terms of rods and cranks that's what I will be doing and fixing the bellcranks onto the boards as per as long as you put a lost motion allowance into the linkage to compensate for over tensioning or straining the linkage so that you always have positive throw. I managed to get some pics of the linkages I use in my workshop so hopefully if I'm clever enough with photo bucket I'll have the pics up today. The other way to do scale bellcranks is if you have a 3D printer or know somebody who has one is to get them knocked up which only takes bout ten minutes once designed on a cad and then scaled down to your exact dimensions and the beauty of 3D is that your able to use the correct colour without the need for painting afterwards but like Manuel of Fawlty Towers (I know Nothing Senior) but then I'm looking forward to learning on here also and I'm preparing to build Drogheda, Platin, and Tara Mines at the end of the garden once the house move is over ! Peadair....

Well Dive I will have a look at things again after my house move as I do have an 'A' class prototype already cast and looks very good and any info on a j15 would help so I think that Dave B is right in his advice but it's just that things move so fast in prototyeping what with the advent of 3D printing and such !

I was a skyleader (that does bring back some memories) and still am a futaba man with several systems that I use today of j10's and 6's and a couple of other generics cos I fly a 550 flame drone, windbag,helicopter plus 2 jetfoils (nicknamed 'tinfoil in Ireland')HMS Speedy, and CU-na-Mara, couple hovercraft, couple lifeboats,Perkasa gunboat, and others all large scale models from 4ft through 5ft and I make all my own fibreglass mouldings and castings and design electromechanics and lots more ! But I digress , when it comes to trains I need the expertise of you guys as I'm a learner and look forward and am grateful for any help given.

Hi Noel I do believe I have bout hundred lengths of Bowden tube and inserts that accepts rc pushrods tube is bout a metre long and also the saddles that facilitate the tube been screwed to baseboard and the breakthrough inserts that clean up the look on the base boards.I use this stuff in all my rc models I'll have a look tomorrow and take some pics and get them up , oh and I've also got bellcranks and 4 to 8 inch pushrods that can be cut to suit. Peadair...

I can remember when that class 33 came out over here in CIE colours and I thought wow a Irish loco and so it wasn't till I had a proper look at it at home that I soon realised that it wasn't the real thing and so it soon got consigned to box 101 totally disgusted with myself then there was the Lima 201 which I didn't discover for bout 7 years after release such a stupid boy ! . Fair play to MIR for his efforts and what he achieved and now look at what we have but the 121 is a long time coming ! Speaking to Dave Bracken a while ago about loco manufacture I was seriously thinking of going into Irish loco manufacture at my workshop here in Sussex but things are moving so fast what with 3D prototyping it rapidly became non viable and now we have mineral wagons and cement bubbles coming up which I eagerly await to order but my house move is slowing everything down for me but I'm hoping for a good year in 2017 god willing ! For my own layout but lots if work to be done ! Peadair.......

Think I better have a butchers at that system and see where it leads so thanks for your info and advice and I've looked on site at that system and looks very interesting so I'll see where this takes me although I guess I'll have to do some comparisons but I should think the USA system beats my idea anytime and like I said it may just be a no brainer. Peadair....

Would be a great help if you could remember that name Dave then I could do a bit more research. Peadair.....

Hi Noel Well if it's any help I work with radio telecommunications and electronics over here so I did think maybe to experiment with sound transmission and so I do agree with what you say with regard to scale effect distance etc and although Doppler shift would not come into the equation until the final stages but I'm about to add a mini transmitter into a loco to retransmit the sound from the loco to another mini transmitter/receiver which could be placed anywhere on the layout with a range radius of about 30 metres hopefully somebody could produce a sound chip for other sound effects which could also be retransmitted over the layout while in operation and then all of the sounds come from the loco or another noise box elsewhere on the layout the idea been to put the engineer right in the middle of all the noise as opposed to standing at the side of the layout because elsewhere in the modelling world i.e. Planes boats cars trucks etc of which I'm very active in the clubs over here there are many sound chips that could be utilised by Irish rail modellers to achieve the aim. I will keep you guys posted on what I can achieve and let you know. CHeers for now Noel! Peadair.....

Hi Guys while waiting to move home in next couple of weeks (so I can't play trains) I've been thinking about loco sounds and how we bring it to the layout so thinking we all install our circuits and sound chips in the locos but our speaker systems can only cope with max power output say bout 2 watts so without going into the tech stuff trying to keep it simple so do you guys out there ever wonder about how to increase loco sound volume without increasing amplification in the loco ? Which because of the loco size restrictions kinda puts a damper on things and at club meetings/exhibitions we have a finite noise level governed by the speaker size and max power output ! How about if we could increase the max power output so that we could hear the loco sound above all the other noise either generally across the club room/exhibition or at a specific drivers position at the layout . So do you think that loco sound levels could be higher on the layouts so you can hear that loco approaching or coming around the bend? Or is this a no brainier ? Looking for some feed back ! Peadair.......

Yes im down in the Southeast of England and have been away from Ireland since I was 16 years.

In answer to the prototypical question the answer is to produce as many as possible from around the country based on layout popularity and possibly an individuals needs. With regards to the Guinness kegs Buffer stops and platform sides are already in the pipeline and as for time wasting well thats something I never do and I wont be looking for orders so to speak as thats for another section of this forum but suffice to say that all of the subjects mentioned + more will be produced in quantity as much as possible. I am not the answer to all the Irish railway modellers needs and wants but I do bring on here 40 years of experience to the table as a master modeller from the time in Rialto back in the sixtys as a boy when my deceased brother gave me a slap for touching his Flying Scotsman loco lol to radio control cars planes helicopters drones hovercraft Jetfoil/Tinfoil hydrofoil model powerboating with gps and authomatic control capabilities + garden railways and an 800sq ft workshop fully equipped with all I need with no need to out source any work whatsoever and loads of experience in GRP and castings and design. Im here to help the modeller not screw him or her.! Workshop pics to follow soon. Peadair........