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Everything posted by daryl43068

  1. daryl43068


  2. Hi All, Realised I forgot to post photos of the finished GSV, Cheers Daryl
  3. Hi Dave, Replica do the B5 bogie. I did think about using a Class 55 Deltic nose grille on my GSV, but opted to use Evergreen instead (due to ease of conversion) D9009 nose end, 7/8/10 by Kieran Marshall, on Flickr Cheers Daryl
  4. Hi All, Must apologise for not being active of late, I go through the odd patch of not being in the mood to model, and can quite easily go several months without touching them. Anyway, it's back, but the brake vans haven't been touched. I've had underframe and running issues with them, derailing, wheelsets dropping out etc, plus struggling to source correct springs, shamefully, I've lost interest with them and I will be lazy wait for a RTR version. Doom and gloom over with, I've been making a start on Mk3 coach 6402. I have quite a soft spot for HSTs over here in the UK, so modelling a former HST coach was a no brainer for me! The model started of life as a Hornby Mk3 in Royal Train livery, with curtain printing on the windows. Seeing as the windows frames and glazing will be replaced with Shawplan versions, this was not an issue. The model was dismantled, and glazing removed. The window frames were timmed off and sanded flat ready for Shawplan's Extreme Etchings replacements. The door recesses were filled in to create the impression of a plug door. Once everything was sanded flat, I lined making tape along the body to make sure the frames are all straight and level. The frames were fitted using Johnson Klear, a now discontinued floor polish. I'm sure an acrylic varnish would work the same. I brushed Klear on the body, placed and aligned the frame, then brushed some more Klear over to seal. I let them set, and once happy with the positioning, I used Zap CA, a thin cyano glue with excellent capillary action to secure the frames better. A few photos; Thats all for now, Cheers Daryl P.S, someone PM'ed me about the genny in the GSV, for the benefit of others, here it is: https://www.shapeways.com/product/YMA3S4NBA/diesel-generator-industrail-z-scale?optionId=43302756&li=ostatus
  5. Thanks for the praises guys! I've painted the genny this afternoon, will have to go over it again and fill the gaps in. Cheers Daryl
  6. Thanks Popeye I've had a parcel from Shapeways with the 3D printed goodies inside First up the genny set for the GSV. While not perfect, it will be a massive improvement over the mashed together bits that were inside! My photos do not do the model any justice, photographing something all white/ transparent ain't easy! And testing for size... Next up is the duckets, Looking at prototype photos, I've made the windows on the van slightly too big, so they will have to be narrowed with plasticard strip. That's all for now, Daryl
  7. Thank you all for the replies , Glenderg, many thanks for the ducket diagram, I had a go but couldn't get on with it, but it was very helpful for the CAD model, and this has been tweaked and windows added. I've just sent those off for 3D printing, and also a generator set for the GSV. This Diesel Generator Industrail Z Scale is designed to go on the back of an Z scale flatbed wagon, but a quick measure up and it shouldn't look to bad in the GSV. Back on to the ballast plough, I've started on van No.2, this time taking a different approach, butchering up a Dapol brakevan kit (C038). Again, it wont be perfect, but the underframe looks a bit Irish, and until I can get hold of some MJT parts (that are currently out of stock) or from anywhere else, these will have to do. First job was to remove the square axle box, And replace with a modern roller bearing. These were made up from 2.4mm rod with a thin plasticard triangle over the end. There was also a fillet of plasticard added between the spring and the bearing. I also beefed up the disks below the J hanger, with some 2.4mm rod with a chunk cut out, and slipped over the hanger. The right hand one has been modified. The underframe was shortened and made up/ guessed from the (poor) instructions, and was looking good until they were offed up to the doorway/ veranda made up earlier, and the frames were too narrow. Fortunately the glue had not quite set, so the sides were prised way, which left the frame and the buffer beams. The buffer beams had the buffer back plates removed, along with the protruding pips. The bufferbeams were attached to the floor of the veranda, and the sideframes added on. This now gave me the problem of the wheelsets kept falling out! Romford bearing were added to narrow the gap down, and these were fettled and tested on a short bit of tarck until everything was snug. Unfortunatly I fogot to take photos of this but but for reference here is the bearings, Bodysides were made up in the same fashion as the previous van, appologies for the poor photos, these were quickly taken on the layout, Cheers Daryl
  8. Hi All, The ballast plough is making slow progress, but getting there. It's about 80% there build wise, requiring some leaf springs and axle boxes, duckets, a roof and small details. I'm currently drawing up duckets to 3D print, as the thought of making (upto) 4 duckets all identical put me off! I will attempt to add the ducket windows into the CAD drawing, but with meshing going over the windows, I might not bother. The plough posing on the layout, the coupling hooks are MJT 2953, and need to source some brake pipes as well. The plough is from a Cambrian Shark kit. Cheers Daryl
  9. Hi All, Some progress on the Brake/Ballast van. I was planning to convert a BR 'Shark', and bought a Cambrian kit at a model show. Unfortunately they are very different, with major surgery required to get it right, so I've planned to scratch build the body. After looking for suitable donor vans, bearing in mind I would only use the chassis and roof, an LMS 20t brake van would be spot on. Unfortunately, I managed to get an LNER brake van (at £4 at a show, I couldn't say no), which is a tad too short. The model was took to bits, and the chassis stripped of pretty much everything. Fortunately there isn't much underneath, I have the ploughs from the Cambrian kit, and plan to get the J hangers/ leaf springs from MJT. This is when I found out the van was to short, so I've lengthened it. I did start making the sides, but the pillars kept snapping/ bending, unttil a mate suggested chopping the end of the van off, turning it around and making the veranda from the 'inside' of the van. I can only stress the good saying 'measure twice, cut once'. I didnt, and cut the veranda side too low, so one side has some plasticard strip to bulk it up. The pillars on the veranda are 1x1mm plasticard strip, and the inner concave part of the roof has a plasticard insert, filled and sanded smooth. On the inner end of the door/ veranda, the underside was filed down to accept a 1mm thick floor. The sides will go on the side of the floor. I didn't do my sums right and cu the side 1mm too short, so out comes the plasticard strip again! The rough side offered up in place. The large cutouts are for the windows, the two one rear half will be made up from 1x1mm plasticard strip literally before everything goes together. I plan on adding the mesh over the holes (if anyone knows where to get it from, please let me know! ), and then plop a clear plastic 'window' and secure it carefully to the mesh. Cheers Daryl
  10. No nothing in the name, layout isn't set in any area. I wanted to stay away from the Lane, Junction, Road sorta names, and just happend to see a lorry with Burntwood on the side and it just clicked.
  11. Hi All, Thought I would share the progress of my 00 gauge layout 'Burntwood Heath'. It's 6ft x 2ft and represents a small stabling point with basic depot facilities, including a fuel point, wash plant and a Carraige and Wagon siding. It is set in a city/ industrial setting, with a motorway overbridge forming the backdrop/ scenic break. Trackwork is Peco code 100 and points are powered by Cobalt motors. An overall view of the layout. The siding at the back is just a siding, with the fiddleyard disappering to the right. The fuel point is whare the inspection pit is, with a short siding for a rail tanker to be offloaded. The grey area will be hard standing/ compact ballast, with two loco holding sidings infront. Moving to the right hand side, at the back is the C&W siding, a short stubby siding for half a coach, and two sidings at the front to display stock. Finally in the middle (where the lack of sleepers are) is the wash plant area. The fuel point area, Wash Plant Will post some more recent photos later Cheers Daryl
  12. Excellent work! Very impressed, yellow is a pain to spray, and all the areas that need spraying as well, plus the transfers!
  13. Thanks for sharing that photo of 3188. One thing I do find odd if the white stripe at the top doesn't match the cravens. The buffers ar Comet Models C42 BR extended buffers x12. Thanks again, Daryl
  14. Thank you all for the comments, much appreciated! About the video, next time I weather something I might film it, not keen on the idea though as I hate the sound of my voice but will take better step by step photos Cheers Daryl
  15. Hi All, Thank you for the comments, much appreciated! I must apologise I forgot to take step by step photos, so I keep nipping back to te models to take photos of certain bits! These are the materials I used, Humbrol Maskol Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0002 White Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0004 Smoke Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0007 Dark Earth Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0008 Rust Humbrol Metalcote 27004 Phoenix Precision P977 Rusty Rails Railmatch 402 Frame Dirt Railmatch 403 Roof Dirt Railmatch 412 Weathered Black. AK Interactive Fuel Stains I weathered both locos at the same time, as I like to reduce the amount of cleaning. If both models are having the same colour applied, then may as well do it at the same time, although I will explain both locos separately. Both models were dis-assembled as much as possible. For the 201, the body simply unclips at the four corners, and the bogie frames pull away. The 071 was a pig, with only the centre body lifting away, but the fuel tank does unscrew which does help. The cabs and bogie side frames are attached with wires, so were left in place. The fist stage I did was mask the windows with Maskol. Looking at the 201, they do seem pretty clean. I try and look at 'patterns' in a locos weathering, certain time periods, depots, workload etc. all affect the weathering. Looking at this photo of 210 from hurricanemk1c shows a fairly clean bodyside, and a flat frame dirt underframe, with a few darker patches on the underframe equipment. 210 at Limerick, August 2010 by Kieran Marshall, on Flickr Looking at the roof, that only has a exhaust mark at the No1 end, that is quite sharp, presumably where washing plants only reach so far. 205 & MK2s on 1625 Heuston-Waterford at MP17 01-May-07 by metrovick, on Flickr Staring with the body shell, the roof was masked up to create the edge of the exhaust stain. I didn't press the edge of the tape down, but let it raised slightly, so the edge wasn't crisp. The exhaust stain was made up from Railmatch 412 Weathered Black, with a few drops of the Humbrol Metalcote mixed in. The paint was airbrushed on, wafting on along the roof, until the desired effect is reached. The masking was then removed and the lower edge was treated with a waft of Railamtch 402 Frame Dirt, just enough to take the sheen off the model. Turning to the chassis, the wheels were carefully airbrushed with the frame dirt square on, to reduce the amount of overspray on the wheel treads and pickups. I then sprayed the fuel tank and the other bits with frame dirt, making many light passes from different angle to ensure there were no clean bits showing. To create the darker patches, I mixed Frame Dirt with a bit of Roof Dirt and Metalcote, and brushed on by hand following the patterns in the photo. Finally, a small amount of AK Interactive Fuel Stains around the fuel filler, streaking down and out to give it a slight wet look. Looking at the 071, they all seem to have a oily fuel tank, which catches the end of the bogies, and dark staining down the bodysides. 087 & MK3 PPull on 1325 Heuston-Limerick crossing the Curragh 21-Mar-08 by metrovick, on Flickr On the front, the exhaust extends down the cab, and on the skirt there are some lighter patches over the rails, and faded warning panels. 077 by GB56134, on Flickr With this in mind, the first job was to fade the red warning panels. I used the white weathering powder, gently brushing on with vertical steaks where possible, but came out too pink, so I brushed some of the Rust weathering powder over the top, which gave it a nice orange tinge. Unfortunately its not as fades as I had hoped, but least its not harsh and in your face. Next I sprayed the frame dirt around the bogies, fuel tank and front skirt. Across the loco front, and also the body side and cab doors got a more gentle wafting. The front skirt above the rails were dry brushed with Phoenix Precision P977 Rusty Rails, to give a different tone in that area. The roof was sprayed with Weathered Black with a few drops of Metalcote mixed in, again spraying from all different angles, as a tiny bit of orange will stick out a mile. This was also wafted down over the cab fronts, and streaked down the bodysides. The inner edges of the bogies were sprayed with Roof Dirt and a few drops of Metalcote mixed in, along with the fuel tank and buffer heads. The fuel tank was heavily streaked in the AK Fuel Stains. Finally the underframes of both locos were dusted with the Dark Earth weathering powder, and the exhausts had a dusting of the Smoke powder to create some more tones. Both locos were sealed with Testors Dullcote Spray (with the exception of the 071 fuel tanks). I hope that all makes sense, I can waffle a bit, but if anyone needs more photos/ explaining just let me know, Cheers Daryl
  16. Hi All, Sorry been a bit quiet lately, but I have managed to weather a 201 and a 071. After searching Flickr for reference photos, 201s seemed pretty clean in 2005/2006, with the usual frame dirt underframe and exhaust staining. The 071 turned out slightly dirtier than I planned. Must dash for now, if anyone is interested I can write up my processes in the next few days Cheers Daryl
  17. Thank you al for the great comments, it's really appreciated! I've just glued the glazing in using Rocket Odourless, which is safe to use on glazing as normal superglue would haze the windows. My next project will possibly weathering an 071, and just about to research the Plough Brake Vans, to go with the upcoming ballast wagons. I know SSM do a brake van kit, but I'm put off by a brass kit, an my soldering skills are hopeless, so I'm looking to convert a BR Shark. Might not be 100%, but hopefully will look the part. Thanks again for the comments Daryl
  18. Hi All, Had a bit of a problem with the final matt varnish layer. I used Phoenix Paints PAV82 Matt Varnish, which is ready thinned for airbrushing. Never had a problem before, but this time it went spotty. After searching the web, the problem is the varnish isn't mixed enough. I did mix it to (what I thought was fully mixed) and it obviously wasn't enough. The spotting it the matting agent not mixed in. The options were to start again, or as other folk have done, carefully rub the matting agent off with a white spirit soaked cotton bud, which scared the hell out of me! Anyway I carefully flattened down the bodysides in vertical strokes with a very fine emery board, think it was 1000 grit designed for buffing nails. It has removed the spotty-ness and has accidentally produced some nice variations in tones on the bodyside. The photo above shows a sanded bodyside compared the the untouched one. I have ordered some Testors Dullcote, after people have said they have ha no problems and use it instead of Phoenix, Railmatch etc. Anyway, I assembled the coach and temporally popped the glazing back in and took advantage of the nice weather for some photos outside. The weathered ends suffered from the same problem, but have taken on a white dusty finish. Will have to play with it to try and remove the white dusty effect. The weathering is Railmatch 402 Frame Dirt, with the axle boxes, buffers and coupling sprayed with Railmatch 403 Roof Dirt mixed with a few dropsof Humbrol Metalcote (27004). The steps on the fuel tank were cleaned slightly to represent scuff marks where staff climb up. I also took the opportunity to weather my rake of Cravens. Nothing special, and using the colours mentioned above, plus Railmatch 412 Weathered Black on the roof. The bodysides are untouched. And a shot of the GSV and Craven. When I've got a bit more time will get the big camera out to get a better depth of field. Cheers Daryl
  19. Hi Noel Yeah I sprayed the white, then used the 1mm masking tape to mask off the white. I then sprayed the black, masked that up, then sprayed the orange. Hope that helps Daryl
  20. Thanks Junctionmad, I sprayed the white then used Aizu 1.0mm x 5m Micron Masking Tape. For me it's straighter and less wobbly than transfers. Cheers Daryl
  21. Thank you all for the kind comments, really appreciated and motivating! Cheers Daryl
  22. Hi All, Applied the transfers today. The transfers are from Railtec Transfers and while I have used the transfers before, and they have been superb, these were a sod to apply. Anyway, on to some photos, General view of the sides. One of the 'capacity load 5 tons evenly distributed', the lettering came off the transfer, and was too bad to carry on, so one of them has been replaced with a UK version, slightly different wording and a different size, but think I have got away with it. The orange/red squares and warning flashes And solebar lettering. Haven't got a clue what its for! I couldn't resist an overall shot... Cheers Daryl
  23. Thank you all very much for the kind comments Daryl
  24. Many thanks for the comments, very humbling
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