Questions on using Electrofrog points on DC layout.

[raymurph]

I am about to buy points for my new DC layout. I used insulfrog before but want to use PECO's electrofrog points on this layout for improved running on the metal powered frog. I have a few questions about electrofrog on DC:

Question 1:
I plan to have all points on the mainline powered by Seep PM1 switches controlled by momentary (on)off(on) switches. Does this sound right? - The Seep's built in switch will switch the polarity of the frog. I will use insulated rail joiners coming off the 2 V frog rails and feed power to the track beyond it.

Question 2:
I think that since the frog is now powered by the SEEP switch I can go ahead and cut the wire to separate the switch rails from the frog so as to remove the possibility of short occurring when a metal wheel touches both the stock rail and the open switch rail. However as I am using DC is this step unnecessary?

Question 3:
My final question is about points in my yard. I want these to be hand thrown as I will be next to the yard when operating it. If using electrofog points in the yard how do I wire or insulate them so that the points feed power to a siding and also cut it off from a siding as needed? Am I correct in thinking I would use no rail insulators in the yard and then the direction of a point would either send a positive and a negative current along each rail, making that siding live and powering a loco while the rails in all other sidings in the yard would be dead as they would either receive no power or the  two rails would both be of the same polarity and thus a loco parked in that siding would not move. It's a simple yard with 4 points in a row having 5 sidings.

 

Many thanks, hope I've worded that clearly!

 

Ray

[David Holman]

No electrician Ray, but have always used live frog points and as far as the third question is concerned a live frog point will isolate a loco if switched against it. So you are correct.

[raymurph]

12 hours ago, David Holman said:

No electrician Ray, but have always used live frog points and as far as the third question is concerned a live frog point will isolate a loco if switched against it. So you are correct.

Thanks David, that's very helpful . 

I presume you are using DC, do you bother to cut the 2 little wires on the back of the point to isolate the moving point rail from the frog?

Edited December 6, 2022 by raymurph

[David Holman]

Build my own track, Ray so assume you can cut the wires - after all, you can always solder them back.

[Mayner]

1. The Seep point motor built in switches are not 100% reliable, I use microswitches to change frog polarity for many years

b

2. I haven't had any problems with wheels shorting between a stock rail and an open switch

 

[raymurph]

5 hours ago, Mayner said:

1. The Seep point motor built in switches are not 100% reliable, I use microswitches to change frog polarity for many years

b

2. I haven't had any problems with wheels shorting between a stock rail and an open switch

 

Thanks Mayner. So you throw the micro switch manually to switch frog polarity?

[David Holman]

To echo Mayner, always best to use supplementary polarity change switches on all Peco points. Even the 0 gauge ones on our club layout need them.