Murphy Model 086-no cab lights working

[PJR]

Hi Lads

I can't get the cab lights on either end to work on my 086. I have reset the Hatton 21 pin decoder still does not work. All other lights are working can anyone help out please.

Edited April 24, 2018 by PJR

[Noel]

48 minutes ago, PJR said:

Hi Lads

I can't get the cab lights on either end to work on my 086. I have reset the Hatton 21 pin decoder still does not work. All other lights are working can anyone help out please.

Hi PJR. You would need a 6 function decoder to operate the CAB lights on an MM 071 or MM 201 loco. The Hattons decoder is only 4 function. Noel

PS: I use Lenz Silver which is also only 4 functions in some of my 071s because I don't like the cab lights (i.e. bluish tint and too bright).  They should only be on when the loco is stationary anyway (i.e. darkened cab for good night vision visibility of signals, etc).

[PJR]

Thanks Noel I'll try with another decoder. Don't use the cab light myself just bothering me that it was not working

[Noel]

32 minutes ago, PJR said:

Thanks Noel I'll try with another decoder. Don't use the cab light myself just bothering me that it was not working

Cheers. Me neither. But when I get time I'm going to try and hijack the 5th & 6th function wires for cab lights to operate a DCC uncoupler on an 071. Might end in disaster but I'm kind of curious. 

[Dhu Varren]

1 hour ago, Noel said:

Cheers. Me neither. But when I get time I'm going to try and hijack the 5th & 6th function wires for cab lights to operate a DCC uncoupler on an 071. Might end in disaster but I'm kind of curious. 

A couple of years ago a friend asked me to fit DCC remote uncouplers for Kadee couplings to a BR 2-6-4T locomotive. I don't use Kadees myself, but once I had installed the necessary servos and carried out functional tests, I found it was brilliant. Being able to uncouple a locomotive from stock, anywhere on the layout, was fascinating. No magnets required. I tested the loco for hours, just to make sure it worked, you understand..    

[Noel]

I like the look of this Subarashi but they seem out of production. 

https://www.smart-coupler.com

 

[Dhu Varren]

I hadn't seen that type before. Below is a link showing the type I fitted. The servo can be fitted anywhere as long as it is 90 degrees to the coupler. It operates by pulling on a length of fine thread.

 

[Noel]

4 minutes ago, Dhu Varren said:

I hadn't seen that type before. Below is a link showing the type I fitted. The servo can be fitted anywhere as long as it is 90 degrees to the coupler. It operates by pulling on a length of fine thread.

Thanks DV, that's interesting.  I've seen that video clip before but wasn't sure how reliable it might have been due to wear or chaffing on the fine thread. Do you know if it still working well for your friend on the BR 2-6-4T loco?

[Dhu Varren]

Noel, having installed two of those setups, I can't see any reason for any wear or chaffing to occur. After all, there is next to no tension required to pull the coupling open, and certainly, on the installations I did, there was no contact with anything to cause wear or chaffing. In the extremely unlikely event of the thread  breaking, it would be easy enough to replace it anyway. I would have no hesitation in using that system, if I was using Kadee couplings. 

[Noel]

7 hours ago, Dhu Varren said:

Noel, having installed two of those setups, I can't see any reason for any wear or chaffing to occur. After all, there is next to no tension required to pull the coupling open, and certainly, on the installations I did, there was no contact with anything to cause wear or chaffing. In the extremely unlikely event of the thread  breaking, it would be easy enough to replace it anyway. I would have no hesitation in using that system, if I was using Kadee couplings. 

Thanks @Dhu Varren.

At €17 it looks like a nice piece of kit worth trying out on one baby GM for shunting. I will check how easy it is to get a spare 150mA function output wire onto a LokSound V4 used in MM141 (i.e. either soldered directly to the decoder, or possibly from the MM 141 PCB), and have a look at the innards of the NEM pocket on the 141/Bachmann bogie.  Ideally I'd like to fit the actuator somewhere behind the existing NEM pocket on the bogie if it will fit rather than cut it off and fit a gearbox kadee to the bogie.

I guess another option may be @Flying Scotsman 4472 Anthony's technique of fitting the coupling directly to the 141 body (i.e. NEM pocket glued to the valance). But I'm not sure if the the actuator would fit or if a longer coupling might be needed due to coupling no longer tracking with the bogie. Decisions, decisions, but sure experimenting with this sort of stuff is what constantly adds fresh 'spice' to the hobby. Always new things to learn and try.  Thanks again for the info.

• 2 Piece pack: https://www.precimodels.com/en/shop/product/1-dcc-uncoupling-conversion-kit
• 6 Piece pack: https://www.precimodels.com/en/shop/product/5-dcc-uncoupling-conversion-kit-set-of-6-pcs

Do you know what the difference is between their 2 piece and 6 piece packs? The web site has identical descriptions for both. I'd love to give this a try. If there is anything else you can remember about fitting please let us know.

Below - 2 piece pack

Below - Fitted to a draft gearbox kadee

Below - Fitted to a NEM kadee

Thanks

Noel

 

Edited April 25, 2018 by Noel

[Dhu Varren]

I would say that there is an error in the description for the 6 pack. The six pack would seem to be a multiple pack containing enough parts to fit out three locos (6 couplings).

I would also suggest making the connection to the function output on the loco circuit board, rather than the decoder. Much less expensive if you make a mess of it.

I still have a 2 pack left from the original installation, so I will have a look at the implications of installing one in a baby GM. The friend I did the work for moved away shortly after the installation in the 2-6-4T, and left me with a second loco to do. I had said I would not start the second installation until after he provided me with a suitable decoder, which he hasn't so far. That was nearly three years ago.  

[Dhu Varren]

Just checked a servo on a baby GM. Plenty of room above the coupling pocket, but care would be required in routing the thread so that it does not foul the buffer beam.

There is also room underneath the pocket, but the servo would be visible from the side, although a touch of black paint would help to hide it. Better on top I think.