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KMCE

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KMCE last won the day on July 19

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About KMCE

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  1. KMCE

    Class 458 Build

    Progress to date. Bearing pad for bogie has been trimmed back to rest on the centre of the bogie which now applies equal pressure to the wheel sets. Simple "wiper" pickups were added by using copper clad and some phosphor bronze wire. The copper clad is fixed to the subframe, so the contact withe the rear drivers is assured, while contact on the front drivers will depend on track conditions. If the front drivers flex, they may loose contact with the pickup; there is a fine balance here between maintaining contact and excessive spring force from the phosphor bronze. Depending on how the chassis performs, I may put pickups on the trailing wheel, but so far, so good. Motor was wired up and put on the test track to see how it performs. The string is to hold the motor from moving under torque which can be fine tuned later with some cable ties. And behold a running chassis - Eh, No. Much, and I mean much, fettling later with axle bearings and coupling rod holes we have a running chassis. Slow speed could be a little better, so more fettling may be required to just iron out those very minor sticky points. Other than that, we have a fully motorised and compensated chassis. It does need weight to let it run smoothly as the weight is distributed over all axles and not just the drivers, but that can be sorted once the body is constructed and the whole unit run as one. Very happy with progress so far. Onwards and upwards!! Ken
  2. KMCE

    Small production run of MGWR 6 wheel thirds

    I would be interested, but like other would like a little more information if possible. Ken
  3. KMCE

    Studio scale models worth it??

    Then calmly reach for your extensive list of handy expletives and use the most appropriate one for the occasion. Gently unsolder the joint and re-solder the correct way! Ahhh....that's better..... Ken
  4. KMCE

    Class 458 Build

    Made some good progress over the weekend Bogie frames were cut out, frame spacer and mini hornblocks installed. Soldering work really needs more practice 😉 A compensation bar was installed through some box to control axle movement and add some height for connection to the main chassis. A compensation unit was constructed for the forward chassis which would provide equalisation between the bogie and front driver. When all assembled, we get to a basic rolling chassis which is now running at the correct height. Some minor fettling may be required once the body is on, if there is any forward or rearward leaning. Gearbox was next. High Level Roadrunner+ to allow some movement and articulation if needed. May be over the top, but we'll see as we go along. Bearings soldered into the etch, parts folded and gearbox assembled to arrive at... Crankpins (Alan Gibson) were installed in the main drivers and a set of coupling rods were constructed, again from an Alan Gibson etch. Coupling rods appear to be my kryptonite though; opening out the holes for the crankpins with broaches inevitably leads to slight twisting of the coupling rod at its weakest point. It takes some amount of work to get them straight and level to allow soldering to the corresponding etch. Need to work on that!! But when all that is done, we finally get to a rolling chassis. Well, almost!! Few things to adjust. Quartering on the wheels is not 100% and there is a very slight bind that needs adjusting. The bearing pad on the front compensation unit is too far forward and is putting weight on the leading bogie wheels rather than the bogie itself which will need to be adjusted. Coupling rods need a good tidying up with the file to get them looking semi-normal. Once I'm happy with the compensation, the pins need to be cut back and soldered to fix them in position. So now, a fully compensated chassis with movement on all axles. Excellent, except its like an octopus trying to get it onto the tracks; everything moves, so its necessary to set each axle on the track, one by one, however, when it is on the track, the movement is something to behold - it just ripples over any imperfection in the track. Next up - electrical pickups, temporary fixing for the gearbox, motor install and a test run. 🙂 More later Ken
  5. KMCE

    Locomotive Springs

    Can anyone point me to a source of locomotive springs as per the photos. These are samples of driver and pony springs from Irish locos. Thanks in advance Ken
  6. KMCE

    Scale "0" Gauge

    Hmmm.... By my calculations the scale should be smaller than the 7mm, as you are trying to use the 32mm track to model 5' 3". Thus if 32mm track equates to the 1,600mm prototype, the scale must be 1,600 / 32 => 1:50? I would agree with David - it's probably easier to construct track than to scratch build every element of the model in an unusual scale. Ken
  7. KMCE

    Class 458 Build

    Little bit of work last night. Built the compensation bar between the sub frame and the rear axle. Tricky little bugger to put together - all parts are very close & soldering led to things moving around enough to cause me to revert to my collection of expletives! Simple in theory, but tricky to execute. How it operates Once the bogey and front driver are installed, this compensation unit will set the height for the rear axles and let them move around depending on track conditions. the range of articulation can be seen from the two photos. Just to put this in scale - the distance between the frames is about 17mm. Working on the bogey at the moment and will post some photos on progress shortly. Regards, Ken
  8. KMCE

    Class 458 Build

    As a break from the 495 build, I decided to start on another locomotive. This will be my first foray into complete scratch building and have chosen the ex DSER No. 52; 4-4-2T, GSR Class 458, as a starting point. This loco class was long lived (1893 - 1955) and provided good service on the DSER section but given its life, it could reasonably appear in a wide variety locations and with different demands. Photo courtesy of the "Good Book" (Clements & Mc Mahon) I met with the good folk from the IRRS who were kind enough to give me access to the outline drawings which helped me develop up my own CAD drawings as an aid to building the loco. What is interesting is that while the IRRS drawings are dimensioned, they are not to scale, so some tweaking was required to get a more accurate drawing to work from. First thing need were the frames. While it would be nice to create the frames in total (including the projection either side of the smokebox) it was easier to separate these into two sections. Once they are put on the footplate & mounted on the frames, it will make little difference. This template was printed out and checked for scale before cutting (yes there was an earlier attempt!) Two lengths of brass are tacked together, the template stuck down and cut with the piercing saw. The result of much cutting and tidying up with files to get to this point. I decided to compensate this chassis and am following the very good directions provided in Flexichas (Mike Sharman) who outlines the various methods of providing a fully compensated chassis. In this instance, a primary compensation unit is constructed with fixed bearings able to pivot around a forward fulcrum, and balanced by the rear trailing wheels. What's nice about this is it's in the location of the firebox so seves two functions. This unit was developed around the chassis drawing and was cut in a similar fashion to the main frames. A few rivets along the bottom will provide the illusion of the firebox. This was then assembled to give: This was inserted into the frames, the unit loaded into the locobox to set the hornblocks for the front driving axle. Lots of pegs etc were needed to get the frame and compensated unit to sit correctly before fixing in the hornblocks. 8'-6" coupling rods were used to set the distance and hornblocks soldered in. From this starting point it was possible to set the trailing wheels and their respective hornblocks. Some wheels were installed to get some idea of how the rear compensating unit will operate. At present a 1.5mm rod is located in the rear of the main compensating unit, which will pivot around the cross bar(?) which will then bear down on the trailing wheel axle. A vertical structure will be needed to make up the difference in height between these two units. Ride height can then be adjusted by tweaking the bar until the unit sits at the right height. The main compensation unit will also provide a good location for the gearbox and motor which can be fixed to this unit. Humble beginings, but a thoroughly enjoyable learning curve and looking forward to see how this turns out. A good source of information, and inspiration, is "Scratch-Building Model Railway Tank Locomotives" by Simon Bolton. Excellent read, even if you are not going to build your own locomotive - he takes away the mystery (and fear) of scratch building and is certainly influencing me here. More soon. Regards, Ken
  9. KMCE

    Class 495 Build

    Well.... Touched base with Chris in High Level and it turns out I have the wrong final drive gear - it should have 20 teeth, mine has 23, so new one on its way in the post. Good time to put this one to one side for a short while and start something new. Eoin, Many thanks for that link - I got the book. That chap takes painting seriously!!! 😜 It'll take some time before I get to that level, if ever, but fascinating information none the less. Regards, Ken
  10. KMCE

    Class 800 Gauge O CNC Parts

    That makes sense! The cylinder positions are as below if that helps with the centre cylinder well forward to allow connection to the front axle. Another question is - are the wheels quartered, or is the system set up on 120deg given the three cylinders? Eoin - How are you setting it up on the model?
  11. KMCE

    Class 800 Gauge O CNC Parts

    True, but what is more interesting is that the centre cylinder operates on the front axle which has the crank and valve eccentrics built in. The axle also has associated counterweights take up this imbalance . Thus, why weights on the crank and wheel - unless the front one is cosmetic?
  12. KMCE

    Class 495 Build

    Eoin, Many thanks for the links. There are a few images in there which will provide some indication of how she would have looked both new and old. Not having tried any lining, this should be quite a challenge..... JHB, Really appreciate the input, and I would agree that what ever the finish, a heavy level of weathering and toning down of the paintwork will be required. She will make a poor looking relative to the better looking locos to come. However, it should provide some very atmospheric photos with some heavily weathered and run down wagons. Will keep you posted on progress. Regards, Ken
  13. KMCE

    Class 495 Build

    Yes. The note on the drawing I have from IRRS states: "Purchased from Messrs Allman & Co. Ltd, Bandon for use on Anderson's and Victoria Quays" And while I have you, you being the Oracle on all things Livery, I have a note from the "Good Book" (Clements & Mc Mahon) that it maintained it's manufacturers paint scheme of Olive Green, lined in black & yellow with red frames. Whilst the photo is in B&W, there is no indication of colour variations or lining? Your thoughts? Ken
  14. KMCE

    barrow street

    I'm sure we can forgive leaving out the underground car park!!! 😉 Looking fantastic as always - incredible level of modelling. Thanks for sharing.
  15. KMCE

    Class 495 Build

    Progress for today. The new rods were binding slightly, so it was back onto the loco box to move the hornblocks properly in line. The axle posts allow the connecting rods set the correct distance and then its a matter of soldering in the horn blocks again. Relatively easily sorted, and now the chassis rolls properly without binding. Brakes were added from the kit and modified to suit the actual loco. Brakes are fixed to the 1.5mm crossing rod, which means they can swing out of the way to allow access to the wheels, while normally they can sit close to the wheel as per the prototype. Sliding rod supports from the kit were split and soldered into position using the cylinders as a guide. Next up was the gearbox which is formed from the kit etches folded up. All holes need to be gently opened with broaches to the correct sizes for shafts and bushes. Bushes were soldered in for the drive axle and assembly can commence. And this is where we hit a snag. When assembling the gearbox onto the drive shaft, it appears the gear on the drive axle (large one above with brass core) is a fraction to large to allow it mesh with the idler. No sequence of assembly allowed any space, so I think it will need a call to Chris in High Level Kits for advice. Gearbox connection to the drive axle - less the drive gear. This may need some lateral support as the space between the frames is much more than the kit envisaged, so without some fixing, the gearbox could slip. Perhaps the motor fixed in the boiler may prevent movement - I'll see how it goes. Continued on with other work such as motor into the boiler area, opening of the footplate to allow the gearbox through, and adding the cylinders. We are getting to a rather nice looking loco.... The wider frames move the cylinders out which gives a rather strong looking stance - shot from above showing how the cylinders sit in relation to the footplate. Very pleased with progress & its now starting to look more like the prototype. Ken
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