Dave

Nice work Fran

Can we also get a commitment from people who will do this? I will definitely commit to it and take at least 3 modules.

That's a good idea Eoin, we will have to agree a standard for the track to finish at. Say 100mm from the front of the baseboard to the edge of the sleeper to ensure a set standard between modules.

As Rich said earlier I could fit brass screws for the track to be soldered to.

that's the way you should go and plywood and no paper (MDF)

Nothing wrong with MDF Walter, it's incredibly strong and light weight when used correctly. MDF has got a bad rap from the stuff they used to make it from. Its now very environmentally friendly and sustainable. The problem with plywood is quality, most of it comes from the far east and is weak and full of voids. Birch ply is great but it 5 times the cost.

If we are going to do this we need people to commit to it and see it through. Its a big commitment and I would hate to see it stall half way through.

I think we could do north side and south side, if the baseboards are set up in a large oval north side could be on one side and south side on the other.

Track should be Peco code 100. If someone wants to model a particular area that takes up to 2 or more baseboards they take that many rather than splitting the the area between 2 people.

The biggest issue is getting the track lined up between baseboards, anyone have any ideas on this?

Right im getting this now. Thanks guys

No worries

Welcome to the forum Dave, hoping you find what your looking for

Electrofrog is the best way to go, locos running at slow speed across the point won't stall. Hard wiring the frog will increase reliability as it won't be relying on the power being transferred from the side of the rail to the side of the blade. Dirt will build up between them and conductivity will be reduced.

Hi, what points are you planning to use, insulfrog or electrofrog? The point motor is a PL-10 and you will need a PL-9 mounting plate, if you are intending on electrofrog points you will need an auxiliary switch PL- 13

I think it's great idea!

 

Perhaps we could outline in this thread the basic idea, and the module sizes?

Module sizes I would recommend 1200mm long x 600mm wide, they are cheaper to make as sheet material is 1220mm wide so I can get more out of a sheet.

I can fit each module with precision alignment dowels ensuring all baseboards align perfectly.

I could do a special price of €40 per baseboard normally €50 and €8 per leg normally €10.

Sounds clever Dave....

 

Maybe worthy of starting a 'Modular' group layout thread in the Layouts section?

Yes I think we should start a new thread, if their is enough interest in this.

Eoin,

600mm wide is ideal but I would keep the lengths to 1200mm at most. This keeps the cost down as sheet material is 1220mm wide, its also easier to transport.

Myself and Jack Dunboyne have discussed this before, using modules of 1 mtr long x 500mm wide. I can make these modules for €50 each plus legs. This ensures all baseboards are exactly the same and are fitted with alignment dowels ensuring the modules line up exactly.

I would be interested in doing something like this.

I won't be there, costs are too high and the organisers were very slow in responding to inquiries. Quite a few have told me they will not be attending.

Their will be knitting, sewing and arts and crafts, the only railway related items are Wexford model railway club and Abbeyleix.

Model Rail Baseboards will be there and Eoin with the Dart.

Looks great George.

Welcome Maitland, lovely work there. You will get all the help you need right here.

Excellent! Do you guys have a website, a number of my customers are looking to get in touch and for a website.

I would up for a trip, if anyone wants to travel up with me. When suits everyone to go?

She looks well

 

I wonder is it possible to throw a lick of paint over the cab LED. Poor driver must be getting a tan in there!

Its a pity the light is so harsh, the newer 071's in passenger livery has a much softer cab light.

Pecos instructions on how its done http://www.peco-uk.com/imageselector/Files/Instruction%20sheets/Code75ConTurnoutInst.pdf

You will need an auxiliary switch on the point motor to switch the polarity on the frog when the point switches. Its they way forward as it makes the point very reliable and you are not relying on the connection from the side of the rail to the side of the blade of the point to transfer power.

Peco all the way, the offset on a Hornby point is too severe, plus they are insulfrog and locos can stall going very slowly over them.

Peco electrofrog points are much more reliable and have a very gentle offset of 12 degrees.

Sell the Hornby points as you will regret using them later, as I did.

Stunning work on that brake van, looking forward to seeing your next project. Well done

Lovely work, I love the weathering on the walls.

Wow, that's stunning You should definitely start a thread in the layout section.

Welcome Nelson, any pics of your layout? Lovely work on those locos.