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Posts posted by Dave
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Stunning work Eoin. Just beautiful.
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I would be interested particularly in wiring. Would these be day time courses which would suit me as i live in Belfast?
MikeO
Hi Mike,
I'm planning a one day course on a Saturday. The workshop is 40 mins from Liffey Valley.
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Hi guys!
I have been looking into setting up a series of workshops for you to learn more about the hobby.
This will be a one day session in my workshop teaching about how to do scenery, wiring, track laying etc..
I'm wondering if there is enough interest out there for this.
If your interested in attending please let me know in the comments or by email.
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Looking good Patrick, I like the crane is it scratch built?
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If your prepared to wait here's a set on eBay cheap enough.
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Correct Dave, 5' x 3'. Thank you for the reply.
I have most of the feeder wires soldered to the rails. Ready to connect them to the main bus using scotchlok connectors.
I was least looking forward to soldering, but find it fairly satisfying.
P
Don't use the scotch lock connectors as they can be unreliable. Solder all your joints and you will never have trouble.
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Hi Peter,
It doesn't need to return to the controller. Your layout is the N gauge 5' x 3'?
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Hi folks. I've been having some shoulder and neck problems for a while now and I am not sure if there's a connection, but I'm taking a break from the attic for a while. It isn't quite tall enough for me to sit/stand comfortably. Also, I really want to see the models in daylight ! Not giving up the attic forever , I've put a lot of work in. Just trying this different. Basically the best place I have now is under the couch in the back room. The layout needs to be less than 3.5" high in order to slide under for storage. All buildings etc will have to be removable to be stored in a box, also I plan to have short trains in little storage cassettes. It is a small shunting type layout but I am pleased to date. It will also mean I am downstairs near the family more !
My only question concerns the join. I was going to underlay the track, but I was thinking that at the baseboard join it might make it harder to keep the track aligned once I've cut through. Underlay or not?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28169[/ATTACH]
As Dive says it has been covered. But one problem you will have is the top warping. Particularly at the joint. When it's folded up the MDF top will slightly warp as there is no support there.
You will also need cross brace support.
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Yip, time to slip the mooring lines and cast off
Absolutely Noel, but it will be another couple of weeks till my boat is ready (
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Railway Modeller Boating
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28046[/ATTACH]
=)) Needs a bigger engine!
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It's boating time!
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Great video Noel, very well edited.
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Hi all, new to modelling and doing plenty of research on the net before starting. One subject I cannot seem to get a simple explanation for is the differences between small/medium/large turnouts. Are they just different lengths? ( the straight sections). Will 2 points in s/m/l set end to end still automatically give double track spacing? What about curved points, going from one curve to its parallel track? Any advice appreciated. Many thanks
Just to add some points, (no pun intended!)
The difference between small, medium and large streamline points are;
Small, 185mm long 12 degree crossing angle 610mm radius
Medium 219mm long 12 degree crossing angle 914mm radius
Large 256mm long 12 degree crossing angle 1524 radius
The small radius point is good in small layouts but as Noel says its not very prototypical looking. The long points look great but they take up a lot of space.
All streamline points automatically give the same double track spacing, its 50mm centre to centre which is a scale 6' apart between sleepers. Set track points give a track spacing of 67mm. This is better for layouts in small spaces with tight radius. At 50mm apart rolling stock will collide in the curves if the radius is too tight.
Curved points are the same 12 degree crossing angle and 50mm spacing. But they are only available in one size with an outside radius of 1524mm and inside 762mm.
A common misconception with electrofrog points is that people think that they need to be modified to work on DCC and you need to fit an auxiliary switch to switch the polarity. This is not necessary, electrofrog points work straight out of the box, you just need to fit insulated rail joiners on the vee. The point blades switch the polarity.
The only advantage to modifying the point is when you paint and weather the track. It can also prevent short circuits with older rolling stock with big flanges.
Hope this answers your questions.
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Hi Paddy,
PVA will dry to a gloss, some ballast looks ok and some can be glossy when dry. Using a matt medium over it will dull it down. Drying time is dependant on the environment your layout is in. In my last workshop ballast took up to 2 weeks to dry because it was cold and damp. In my new workshop it only takes a few days. All ballast will go a bit darker when the glue is applied.
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Got mine today and they are stunning. The detail is fantastic! Well done lads, looking forward to the bubbles!
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Where are you based man, have you not tried Model Rail Baseboards of this parish?
I'm already on it Dave! Nearly finished them.
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Hi Fran, you'll do, I was trying to imput a message to the Shops, Manufacturers etc. tread & could not see any option to do this, maybe I'm Not looking in the right place ! however this is the site I'm referring to,
Paul
That page is just for the service providers and manufacturers Paul. It's set up so the company's can advertise and post details on their products.
That company you have given the link to would have to apply for a page. It's not something forum members can do.
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For Sale: 141 IR Orange 156. Boxed and never used. Based in Meath but work regularly in Dublin so can meet. Or Paypal.
How much?
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Hope your doing OK Seamus, get well soon.
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Forgive me if I'm wrong Dave, but do you mean the insulfrog points don't need insulated rail joiners as they switch power to the siding? They are self isolating. I thought electrofrog points need insulated rail joiners on the frog.
Thank you for the advice on the correct wire to use. Now where to buy. Maplins?
Electrofrog if being used on a siding don't need insulating rail joiners. Only if being used on the main. Insulfrog do the same thing, they just don't need insulated rail joiners on the main. In short your siding does not need to be wired from an isolating switch.
Don't go to Maplin as they are extremely expensive. Try your local electrical wholesaler or Brimal components.
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Hi Peter,
For that size layout 0.5mm cable for the droppes and 0.75mm cable back to the controllers will be perfectly fine.
It is best to solder droppers to each piece of track except the siding coming off point one. The electro frog points don't need isolating rail joiners as they can be used to switch power into the siding.
When I'm building DC layouts I always use electro frog points as they are self isolating and switch power into sidings without the need for isolating Switches. I hope this helps.
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I recently changed to N gauge American on a 5' x 2' 8" board. It's amazing what you can fit into a small space.
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As John says a cassette or if you have space to add a traverser or sector plate.
Kerry Model Railway Festival
in What's On?
Posted
The Kerry Model Railway Association are having their annual model railway festival this bank holiday weekend.
It's on the 5th, 6th and 7th of August. I'll be there with plenty of goodies!
More information can be found on their facebook page https://www.facebook.com/KerryModelRail/