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Fowler4f

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Posts posted by Fowler4f

  1. 4 hours ago, Darius43 said:

    Cheers

    Darius

    Thanks Darius, l had forgotten about Eugene’s videos. I have now purchased 4 of blue wagons, GBRf won’t be on there for long ! Also purchased containers from C-Rail.

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  2. I’m looking to build up a fleet of container wagons, Hattons do their own brand of FEA S. Has anyone purchased these from Hattons ? Are they good quality build and run well ?
    At £25 a wagon they seem excellent value, I’d liked to be assured before loosening my wallet.

    Thanks.

  3. On 14/5/2022 at 7:16 PM, Sean said:

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    Trusty hyster on loading duty 

     

     

    GoPro found and charging. Video quality about to improve tenfold over this potato phone 

    Sean, where did you source the container flats and what brand are they ? I need to start building up a fleet of containers and wagons. Rails are the cheapest for Baccy FGA + there is a Bell container, also Megafret set. I can’t find Dapol FEA-B Spine sets yet !

  4. A12 renumbered to A60, transfers slightly oversize especially the side ones. T-Cut did the job on removing original numbers(thanks Flange Lubricator for that tip) and a light spray of clear varnish to finish.

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    • Like 7
  5. 233 different cab removal, no lugs on cab floor, the cab is held in by the sides of the driving desk (the L shaped piece @90° to to horizontal side piece) that clip on to front of cab windows.
    The clear plastic pieces that form the marker/tail lights came away, when I put them back in place both had a touch of plastic weld to keep them in situ.

    I had to tape down the cab lights as they were loose.

    233 was weathered as well. The poor fella of a driver lost his arm in surgery !

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    • Like 3
  6. 229 is a later model than 203. The inside of cab body has 2 side grooves that the back of cab fits in above rear of cab light.

    The side lugs on cab floor by each seat need to be freed upwards from side glazing, then cab back will slide out. The underneath of the cab has a black tape attached to prevent light bleed.

    To replace cab push cab into place, but keeping the 2 floor lugs above the glazing until you can slide the cab back wall into the side grooves. Then push lugs into place in glazing. 

    I took the opportunity to weather the frames and roof as nice day here in Wimbledon.

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    • Like 3
  7. Managed to remove Cab interior, the glazing remains attached to the body, the Driver needed some serious amputations to get him to fit also had to remove the seat armrests.  Just need to get it back in place. 🤞The trick in replacing cab interior is to slide the front under the clear plastic and then slip the back panel into place over the light fitting inside the two roof arches.

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    • Like 1
  8. 6 hours ago, JasonB said:

    Class 201  no.220 

    Weathering has been kept to a minimum, with the exhaust and underside carrying most of the grime. 

    I have also fitted a driver. 

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    Subtle weathering, absolutely love it.

    How  did you remove cab to fit a driver ? I have been wanting to fit drivers to my three 201’s.

    Thanks.

    • Agree 1
    • Thanks 1
  9. 4 hours ago, flange lubricator said:

    I recently changed IR007 to CIE007 while I did not renumber the loco I removed the letter. S and the IR logo both front and sides using a cotton bud and some T-cut scratch remover / paint restorer , do this slowly and gingerly perhaps starting on one of the side numbers . 

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    Very nicely done.Thanks fl.👍

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, Fowler4f said:

    I looked and it seems the A Class transfers are in black, which is fine for front end panels but the side numbers need to be in white. Thanks 

    I emailed Des in the hope he may be able to help🤞

    • Like 1
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